Paint scrapers

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TexasRed
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Paint scrapers

Post by TexasRed »

We've decided to start out with scraping on the claps - see what conditions we encounter before we buy power tools to tackle the paint.

I have a flat carbide scraper that works great, but I know it's not the right tool for this job. Seems like "pulling" would yield more control than traditional forward scraping. I like the 2 handed style of this one. Ergonomic and less muscle required.
Banco 665 Scraper
Banco 665 Scraper
image.jpeg (31.05 KiB) Viewed 1990 times

Anyone used this type? Have a favorite brand or style to recommend?

Thanks for suggestions.
James Jefferson Erwin house, 1905

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GibsonGM
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Re: Paint scrapers

Post by GibsonGM »

Morning, 7th. Oh, having fun with scrapers, eh?? You'll know ALL about them before you are finished, ha ha!

I like the Purdy 2.5" carbide scrapers for most clapboard applications, backed up by something like a Hyde 2" or 1.5" for the little pieces that hide up under the overhang. The blades can be a little pricey - $10 each sometimes! So I order 50 at a time from here, for $5 each: http://www.thepaintstore.com/
They last most of a day if you're careful - DON'T hit nail heads with them or they 'die' rapidly! Yes, pull, never push.

You may find the narrow neck on the version you have wants to break, altho it might just do the job for you, depending on how hard you lean into it. Once you have the technique, it's not too bad. Be cautious of tearing into the wood, of course, and watch that you have the ROUNDED side of the scraper blade installed....the flat side has sharp corners that grab and dig in. Be careful not to strip the screw on the back that holds the blade in. Otherwise, these make fast work of problem areas!

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Sow's Ear Mal
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Re: Paint scrapers

Post by Sow's Ear Mal »

This is good to know. I hand-scraped the clapboard of my foursquare years back, using crappy hardware store grade scrapers. I kept them sharpish by very frequent use of a flat file, which took way too much time in an already lengthy project. Turned out well, though. But if ever I attempt this again, I'm buying carbide. ..mal

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Re: Paint scrapers

Post by phil »

I find it hard to scrape with two hands while holding the heat gun ;-)
I have two , one something like the picture(different brand) and one that is triangular and I like that one when I need to get into corners, plus it can be used on 3 sides before I need a new blade. I just resharpen my own carbide blades. You'll have difficulty doing that if you use the cheap stones that come with most grinders, youll need a "green stone" or "carborundum", you can finish with a diamond stone. If you try to sharpen carbide with the most common kind of grindstones that usually come with grinders you'll find the stone isn't hard enough, get frustrated and give up.
. .

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Re: Paint scrapers

Post by heartwood »

bahco (one called sandvik) are my favorite scrapers...they made a 2 1/2", a 2" and one with a shorter handle (625) that holds a triangle, (turn to get a 'new' edge), a tear drop or round blade...I sharpen my blade every 10 minutes or so...literally takes 5 seconds...this is the sharpener I use: http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/produ ... CCESSORIES but I don't buy from dick's....

while working, I always have a scraper or two, the sharpener and a spray bottle of water...spray the sharpener and sharpen blade for 3-5 seconds for a nice clean edge...we work in a shop setting not on ladders like Gibson...sharpening is much easier for us...plus it keeps extra blade money in my pocket!

if you want to hook up to a shop vac, this tool works well...has a carbide blade that can be sharpened hundreds of times... https://gumroad.com/l/proscraper#

hope that helps...
.....jade

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GibsonGM
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Re: Paint scrapers

Post by GibsonGM »

Nice products, Jade...those are FINE scrapers. Yeah, what we use are for siding and trim, in order to make some progress.

Everyone should have the 2.5" AND keep a teardrop in their pocket!! ;) Invaluable for getting out the inevitable nasty caulking people have shot into tight places over the decades.

>>> Phil - I'll have to try a "green stone" for sharpening. I usually get frustrated and just replace the blade...at $5 a pop, grrr. I buy 25 to 50 at a time, and typically get 60 to 120 sq. ft. out of one depending on nail heads.

What kind of grinder are you using? Mine (sadly) only has high speed, perhaps 1600 RPM or something (not in the shop right now)? I think for carbide you need to be <700RPM? I do have a dremel and wonder if I could use that for sharpening...would make life easier. I have many old blades to practice on, LOL!

Most other painters in my region use the steel scrapers and re-file, probably because of the carbide resharpening thing, but I find they really STINK, do not remove enough material.

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Re: Paint scrapers

Post by phil »

the way I sharpen them is pretty simple. Just make up a sled for your table saw that has a couple of sliders to fit the T slots. you can clamp it to the table, a micro adjustment would be nice to bring it closer to the stone. Mount the stone on the saw's arbor. a second jig just holds the blade down to the table and allows you to slide it back and forth and up against the first jig. bring the first jig just close enough to touch the blade to the stone. It's not complicated. . I can do jointer blades in the same way for my 6 inch jointer. the longer ones for my thickness planer I don't do they are too long so it's more critical.

sharpening this way produces a hollow grind so you could touch it up more easily for a couple times with a little diamond stone. The smaller the stone the more hollow you'll have on the cutting edge side.

the jigs I made are primitive but I'm not doing anywhere near the amount of scraping you guys do so yea it might not really pay. most of my stripping lately has been with a heat gun and I just use a putty knife and I like it a bit dull so it doesn't dig in, but most of what Im stripping also has shellac so its going quite fast and easy.

At work we send jointer and planer blades in to the saw sharpeners. I change them all the time. I think they charge about 6 bucks an inch or so.

working around metal lathes it used to be common to sharpen your own HSS cutters. I do that sometimes for odd shapes, like maybe if I wanted to cut a slot for a O ring a certain critical width..
For the most part I can use the triangular Sandvik replaceable carbide cutters. most of these are little triangles and you can flip them 6 times but the cut on the corner. I love them ! You can get a myriad of different shapes for different machinery. I have changed lots of blades that resemble scraper blades on larger woodworking machinery. Sometimes I'd save the dull ones which are still plenty sharp for the purpose I have thought of just making my own holder and using those instead of the ones you buy.
most stones have a speed rating on the label. the important thing is surface speed. spin them too fast they can explode. most 10 inch saws go around 3600 RPM this stone Ive been using is pretty small. If you put a big 10 inch stone on the tablesaw you should check.. I just checked one I have here it is an 8 inch stone and it's rated at 3600. it's all about surface speed so the smaller the diameter the faster you can spin it. a dremil would be around 12000 max .

how you sharpen them isn't really complicated so there are many ways of doing it and it often isn't hard to devise a jig to sharpen them. you just need to be able to move the blade back and forth and some stable way to hold things.and a way to be able to adjust the distance from blade to the stone.. that can be as simple as putting in more feeler guages between a couple metal blocks. scrapers don't have to be anywhere near as precision as planer blades.

I don't' think the RPM is important but the surface speed is. It might pay for someone who uses a lot to make up a sharpening jig. I just hate paying like 10 bucks for a little bit of steel.

saw filing is a trade but it's a dying field, most modern machines use replaceable blades. even a lot of little 8 inch joiners have little segmented replaceable blades nowadays.

I just had a sales guy hand me a flyer for these new lenox zip cutters for angle grinders. these are a metal disc with diamonds on the edge so the stone doesn't reduce in size as it wears like the regular zip disks. something new. the regular zip discs are thin and fit an angle grinder , you can cut steel very fast but they can be dangerous because they explode easily if you twist the angle grinder when it's cutting.

If I were to make a grinding station I'd use an angle grinder or maybe a bench grinder or tablesaw. a dremil would work but it would need to be clamped firmly, they dont' have strong bearings. it would work. you don't need pressure against the cut really. it's best if the stone can be wet but not necessary.

If you go sharpening blades on your tablesaw be sure to empty it and don't send sparks into the dust vac if you have one. you don't want to start a fire.

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Casey
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Re: Paint scrapers

Post by Casey »

This is handy for sharpening carbide edge tools.
https://www.zoro.com/dmt-min-sharpening ... lsrc=aw.ds
What kind of paint scrapers are traditionally used by pushing? I did not get that part.
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phil
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Re: Paint scrapers

Post by phil »

cabinet scrapers are normally pushed. the technique normally used is to put your two thumbs in the middle near the bottom and pull back with your fingers. this puts a slight bend in the blade. You get your weight behind and push. Its a bit of a learned technique, at first it seems awkward but gets better as you build the right muscles in your hands. youll also feel the heat on your thumbs from the blade getting warm until you learn to keep them the right distance from the cutting edge.

You can get a holder for them so you can pull back, Lee valley sells them. they are also good if you don't have lots of strength in your hands.

card scrapers come in various thickness, thinner for finer work, you can use heavier ones for paint scraping. My dad was a cabinetmaker and then a carpenter. he always joked that the long side was used by Joiners and the short side by Carpenters , it was a dry insult towards carpenters who do such fine work. You can of course use it both ways.

I sharpen both sides front and back and that gives me 4 cutting edges. I dont' sharpen the short sides Its common to burnish the edge of the card scraper to get a hook and that helps it take more off. If you didn't use one so much and wanted to keep it in your pocket you can put those plastic blade protectors on or round the ends. I find if I just slightly round the corners then I don't cut with the corner, that causes scratches.

I don't think this is the sort of thing you;d use on the outside of your house much but if you had a table with a solid wood top and shellac or laquer or somethign , well you can take the finish off fast. without heat or chemicals. when I do my floors the last step I use is to go over the whole floor with one. sanding rounds off everything , a card scraper leaves a better finish because it actually cuts the fibers flat rather than just wearing them down like sandpaper and that produces a better surface for fine finishing. If you use a thicker one and burnish a hook on it and get good with it it is very surprising how much material you can remove quickly.

if you want a medium one, just look for a handsaw with a kink and sacrifice it. , use a dremil to cut the size to about 2" x 4" and you can make several from one saw. they are very handy to have in your pocket. handsaws are hard enough to cut but soft enough that you can file sharp.

If you have lots of a special shape you need to scrape you might find it handy if you take a card scraper and shape it to fit a molding or curve. you can make a little pattern of the shape , then cut the detail with a dremil with a little cutting disc. even just to follow a certain radius they are handy.

if you want to spend a hundred bucks this little set is really nice to have. I bought one and I really like it. the file holder lets you sharpen it square ( like an ice skate) without putting it in a vice. You can clamp it in a vice and then use a hard screwdriver to burnish if you don't want to buy that burnisher. the holder is handy for when you want to pull back as it's hard to hold it properly when you are pulling , but that's possible too.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/gifts/page. ... 3220,61448

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Re: Paint scrapers

Post by heartwood »

we have those 'keychain' sharpeners too casey...unless things have changed in the last year or so, they are made right here in Massachusetts...

I hold the scraper in my left hand and steady it on my thigh with sharp end down...I hold the sharpener in my right hand and sharpen the blade with a circular motion at the same angle as the blade....works like a charm....what does a charm work like? :?

...jade

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