The Historic District

And to think, no one will see or know of the efforts you put in. All they know, it is bright and warm. Maybe that's just the way it should be.

The built in idea was pretty nifty! It's nice to have some indoor projects overwinter, I need to get back to paint stripping the interior!

So my next decision on millwork and styling is do I do a very low relief coffer on the ceiling.

Backstory: The PO who restored the place in the 1970s was the worst dry waller in the NorthEast. You can see every screw / nail as he dawbed compound in then painted over. Seriously no sanding! Good job the dawbs were small. He also used a technique on the ceilings that I have only ever seen on post WWII houses, where instead of mudding joints you place a strip of wood over them. In theory this should be as easy as removing the strips and mudding. But the problem is that there are often gaps up to 1.5" wide under the wood strips.

I would remove his bad sheetrock but firstly its a massive bunch of work, because there is half a rotten plaster ceiling above it and secondly, it seems I am somewhat allergic to plaster dust (enough issues with the current lath being exposed already). My plan so far has been to fill these, patch and mud... But I got to thinking. What if I did a really low relief coffered ceiling. These ceilings are just about 8 feet, and its a small room (12x14) but if I kept it no deeper than say 3/4" it might look attractive and period...

I am thinking 6 rectangular panels bisected by a 5" coffer with a routed edge detail, all eventually painted off-white. What say you? would it be too much in this small room?

I think that's a good plan. I installed 2x5 beams in my library once; looked great

I think it is a good choice too...certainly better than tearing down the drywall and having to deal with plaster repair...if the ceiling and coffered wood are the same color, I don't think you'll notice a height difference...
...jade

Ive been going through my basement workshop. Im trying to find the floor but it seems to be hidden by tools and projects. I have lots of woodworkinmg clamps and tried to tighten them against the joist. for some weird reason they seemed to loosen themselves and drop off one by one. Now I look at micks kitchen and realized he solved the problem by putting them up in his kitchen I actually have some wooden bar clamps that have cast iron ends but you can shuttle the moveable cast iron part between holes cut in the wooden bar. They are neat to look at but I still use them.

now I'm trying to figure out the right angle of aproach, Look honey... we can decorate the kitchen with all my wood planes and saws and clamps and... I have a lot of old tools that are antique but I don't' hesitate to use them. i picked up a handsaw for ripping, but it isnt' a two handled deal it just has one handle but it's 5 feet long. Serious tooth depth. I can only imagine ripping lumber that way.. Im rambling again..

Yea the pillar might work . I'm not a great interior designer but some really have a knack for visualizing. I've seen lots of kitchens where they make kind of an archway affair over the back portion of the stove and incorporate the hood fan. I thought maybe somethign like that with two posts. one right down to the floor on the left side and the one on the right side stopping at the counter ? maybe incorporate some copper and rivets or something?

Phil

Okay, after a few weeks off I am about to fire up this project again. On the newly insulated exterior walls I have decided to replace the thickness of the original lath by using 7/16 OSB as suggested by another member here. Then I will put either 3/8 or 1/4 sheetrock over that.

So a quick question for you all though. Would you put the vapor barrier between the OSB and the insulation or between the OSB and the sheetrock?

Mike, between the insulation and the osb. If not the moisture will get into osb.

Gothichome wrote:Mike, between the insulation and the osb. If not the moisture will get into osb.

I have never fully grokked the science of this.

All I've ever heard is that OSB is a vapour barrier all by itself and won't wick up any water. The insulation is where you don't want any moisture.