I'm a maytag repairman now

[phil]

here's the new spider outside of the bin. when its' installed the pockets face the back of the bin. Im thinking of adding a hose to clean out the pockets , either fill water or maybe a compressed to blow them out once in a while. I think I can route little hoses through the honeycomb so they spray the thing directly.
It's completely inaccessible when it's together.

the other pic gives you an idea how far the machine has to come apart to get to the area in order to fix the machine, which typically forces the user to buy a new machine.
I'm seeing lots of other similar machines for free, maybe I can fix others if it seems worthwhile.

[phil]

still waiting for the parts. since the bolts were so frozen into the spider I needed new ones and figured I better stick with the type it had because I dont know what they are plated with and they are metric countersunk ones. I probably have iron but they would rust.
I did pick up new bearings from the bearing company. about 40 bucks. They werent' bad but I dont trust those Chinese bearings and it would be a pain if they failed in short order after I got it back together. took a little pounding and I used my slidehammer and adapted that to do most of it. The one in the tub is sold with the whole tub. If i got them from Samsung they would be the Chinese ones anyway. Tried to get bearings with rubber shields but as it were I could only get the one near the motor like that so I went with what I could get without waiting , metal shields it is , that' what was there anyway. the seal that fits the shaft is special so Im hoping I can et that with my parts and renew it. It keeps the water out of the bearings. If I put spray hoses near the back of the drum I dont want that to get water in the bearings but the whole spider runs in the wash water so It should be able to withstand it. the indent near the center seems a bit hard to get a hose into and maybe I don't want too much water in that area anyway. I think samsung could have avoided the issue by making the machine clean the spider when it was filling, but I also think the fault was completely intentional. It's a designed in fault to limit the lifespan. What an environmental disaster. There oughta be a law..

If I just run hoses into the area I could connect them to an air fitting and that might be enough so I can blow out the area. part of the issue is the debris collects there and keeps the spider wet so then the electrolysis never stops. Rust never sleeps.

[Gothichome]

Phill, I wish I had the time to do my own appliance repairs. I used to, but since we bought Gothichome there is just no time. I’ve come to to accept a five to ten years life span on our washers and dryers, if I can’t fix it in short order out it goes. Last washing machine we had the counter weight split and spewed the ballast all over the floor. We no longer buy the fancy units, stick to plain Janes now, it does the job.

[phil]

I thought I might drill little holes and stick hoses into the bin to clean the area with compressed air or water but I tried crazy glue , plumbing glue, transition glue for plumbing. None of those bonded with the drum, they stuck to the hose ok. I thought of drilling little holes through 1/4" bolts and then making the end fit a hose so I could use rubber washers instead of glue,, bu then I decided against trying to modify things. got my parts and started reassembly. now the bin spins nice with new bearings and a new spider and i changed the seal where the bins meet and the seal to keep water out from the driveshaft bearings.

I think one of the most important things with all these new machines is to not close the door unless it's in use because it creates a terrarium inside and then the spider rots out. using bleach also may help kill off the bacteria and maybe the choice of laundry soap makes a difference. If it's dry then the process of pot metal rot stops.

a new one is about $900 or so and the parts cost about $300. I could have eliminated a few parts. For all I know a board could be fried though, I'll find out. If I worked on another and had the parts on hand and ready it would be a lot easier the second time. The reliability of these new machines is terrible. the old standard top loading white boring ones are a better value by far if you can get the parts to fix them up.
I dont think the problem is limited by brand. LG seems to have the exact same issues as Samsung. I haven't been inside many others. Buyer beware.

[phil]

so all is well that ends well. The samsung did work when I got it all back together and now I can focus on other things. I guess I did ok with it considering the only cost was the parts. I could do it a lot faster now I know what's entailed and I might consider rebuilding another free one if it comes my way just to save it from the landfill. If you have to hire this out it's probably not worth the cost of parts and labor. I guess it was interesting to take it apart and a bit satisfying that it did actually work in the end. the pump is a bit noisy but I'll leave that alone for now, it works.

[Gothichome]

Phill, working after you fix it is the objective isn’t it what did you do with the few left over washers and the mystery fastener left over that comes with these types of jobs. I like to think I did a better job than the engineers, those parts were not needed to make it work.

[Lily left the valley]

Phill, working after you fix it is the objective isn’t it what did you do with the few left over washers and the mystery fastener left over that comes with these types of jobs. I like to think I did a better job than the engineers, those parts were not needed to make it work.

I like this way of thinking about leftover hardware.

Phil, glad to hear you've got it working. I totally understand the satisfaction when one can take the time to slowly disassemble, note what should go back where, then figure out what the issue is and putting it all back together again and have it working. Nicely done.

[phil]

so it ran fine for about a month and a half. Now the high end samsung has an error, it has all these error codes listed but this one isn't documented. it looks like "EE" but the top horizontal bar of the first E is missing and it isn't because that LED is burned out. I found a lot of technical info on how to test the board and go into all sorts of test modes. lots of complex procedures translated to english with bad wording.,, It's just so over-complicated but I will print it out and delve in over the weekend with hope of clean pants as final outcome