GE Globe-Top Monitor Fridge

[MJ1987]

I scored this GE globe-top monitor "refrigerating machine" (fridge) on Craigslist this past weekend. I bought it in Brooklyn and transported it in my pickup truck to Westwood as gingerly as I could. It doesn't help that there's literally 5,000 potholes over the 50-mile trip. I asked the PO to plug it in before I got there so I could see it was running. By the time I arrived an hour later, it was icy cold. It needs some cosmetic work but my main concern is the mechanicals. The cord is pretty dry-rotted and there's a bit of rust. I would not hesitate to drop some money into it to make sure it runs.....forever. But finding anyone willing to work on it seems challenging. I'm also a little reluctant to plug it in and run it because I don't want to worsen any potential existing issues.

There's a few sites and forums that actually demo how to take it apart and refurbish, but I'm not that brave. I do lots of my own work on most stuff so I can splurge a little on other things. This is the prime example. Anyone know of any restorers in the New York City area? I found one place that has potential, Belgrove Appliance in Yonkers. They also seem to offer "partial" restoration services, so maybe they can do the mechanicals and I can do the cosmetics to save a bit of money.

Bottom line, this little deco fridge will be perfect for my kitchen vision...IF it keeps working!

[phil]

I'd look into it more. you might find it uses ammonia. Youll learn more as you go and I'm not sure that's the case but you might not want to play with ammonia. you might be able to convert it to a peltier cooler. a lot of the new ice boxes like camping coolers use them but you can get larger ones. Its basicly a simple device that makes cold from electricity with no moving parts so that would make it more easily adaptable than to change the compressor and other stuff, but look into it more I'm sure there is better info and some restoration blogs. I'm not sure if it uses ammonia but heed some caution if it does. if ammonia gas gets loose it kills people. Its a nice find. maybe it's worth more original or maybe you wouldn't have to change a lot to convert it like this and it would be reliable. Maybe it could keep all its parts and still be safe? Of course dont change stuff unnecessarily. Its a piece of history!

[Manalto]

What a beauty! Congratulations!

I think the refrigerant is sulphur dioxide, which people are terrified of. Sure, it's toxic, but it's enclosed in the system, and if it ever leaked, you'd have ample warning to open a door and run a fan.

I've had pretty good luck with raising questions and asking for referrals on http://monitortop.freeforums.net/

Sometimes they're a little slow to respond (I don't think Monitor-top fans are a huge demographic) but they respond to a little prodding with casual indulgence. ("Oh, OK, here's your answer.") They seem to prefer the mechanical questions, rather than cosmetic, so you're likely to get a more prompt response, especially since the globe-top is so sought-after. Post a photo - jealousy will definitely get their attention.

You're gonna love it.

[1918ColonialRevival]

If it runs and cools, there aren't any significant issues. Replace the cord, clean the dust out of the compressor (a paintbrush, a small can of compressed air, and a vacuum cleaner work nicely for this), and the door gasket will likely be dry rotted and need to be replaced. Keep the original compressor, as it's far superior to the China units that a lot of the so-called "restorers" are installing in them today. These appliances were made to run. In fact, you'll find most of them still running 80+ years later.

I believe this one uses sulfur dioxide as the refrigerant. If it had a leak, you'd know it because it would stink to the high heavens. The only way they will leak is if they suffer some kind of trauma to a refrigerant line, such as a sharp puncture.

One tip - if you had it tilted or laying down, let it sit for 48 hours before applying power. The reason for this is so the oil in the compressor can run back down where it belongs.

[MJ1987]

What a beauty! Congratulations!

I think the refrigerant is sulphur dioxide, which people are terrified of. Sure, it's toxic, but it's enclosed in the system, and if it ever leaked, you'd have ample warning to open a door and run a fan.

I've had pretty good luck with raising questions and asking for referrals on http://monitortop.freeforums.net/

Sometimes they're a little slow to respond (I don't think Monitor-top fans are a huge demographic) but they respond to a little prodding with casual indulgence. ("Oh, OK, here's your answer.") They seem to prefer the mechanical questions, rather than cosmetic, so you're likely to get a more prompt response, especially since the globe-top is so sought-after. Post a photo - jealousy will definitely get their attention.

You're gonna love it.

Thanks! I actually set up an account on that forum a few days ago. I posted a general topic under the Globe Top forum inquiring about interest in restoration. TBH, I'd be more than willing to let one of these enthusiasts work on the mech's and I'd do the cabinet. At the very least, I'd like to network with someone in the NY/NJ area to troubleshoot.

The Belgrove place in Yonkers only does stoves, so they're no longer an option.

If it runs and cools, there aren't any significant issues. Replace the cord, clean the dust out of the compressor (a paintbrush, a small can of compressed air, and a vacuum cleaner work nicely for this), and the door gasket will likely be dry rotted and need to be replaced. Keep the original compressor, as it's far superior to the China units that a lot of the so-called "restorers" are installing in them today. These appliances were made to run. In fact, you'll find most of them still running 80+ years later.

I believe this one uses sulfur dioxide as the refrigerant. If it had a leak, you'd know it because it would stink to the high heavens. The only way they will leak is if they suffer some kind of trauma to a refrigerant line, such as a sharp puncture.

One tip - if you had it tilted or laying down, let it sit for 48 hours before applying power. The reason for this is so the oil in the compressor can run back down where it belongs.

So, I'd like to replace the cord, but it actually looks fairly complicated. As per James's reply above, I went to the Monitor Top forum and watched a video. There's quite a bit of careful disassembly, being sure not to kink any of the fragile coolant lines, unsoldering, probable cleaning with a Dremmel tool, fibre washer replacement, priming, etc. I know that I'm more than capable of doing all this, but it comes as something of a surprise since most cords I've replaced require (at most) some heat shrink wrap and a couple brass screws...

Also, I actually let it sit a full 96 hours before plugging it in. It started cooling right away, but boy did the top get hot around the right and left sides. So hot, in fact, that it was almost too hot to touch. I know these units are super efficient because any heat generated by the mech's escapes above the area being cooled, but is it supposed to get that hot? I'm thinking that maybe it gets that hot once it's plugged-in for the first time, after not running, and then cools down once it really gets going...? Or not and I'm about to bear witness to a chemical fire. Either way, I actually turned it off via the small push/pull rod just above the door and then unplugged, totally.

More thoughts, please!

[Manalto]

Could the heat be a result of trapped dust acting as an insulator and not allowing it to dissipate, or have you already cleaned it? My MT gets warm but not too hot to touch, however it's a different model. I'd raise the question on the MT forum.

[1918ColonialRevival]

It will get a little warm, but if it's getting that hot, I'd pull the cover and clean it out real good. Dust bunnies act as insulation.

[phil]

checkk all the wiring , inspect he cord. maybe find out if you can convert the gas it uses. check the motors, they probably have an oil hole near the shaft for a drop of oil it might desparately need now. oil one a year a few drops not more.
check the motor belt if it has one, replace it if it's got a rubber drivebelt.
you might do some electrical things like
- inspect all the wiring and connections clean any iffy connections replace any old bad wire.
add at least a fuse and consider a motor overload. the overload will sense if the motor locks or draws too much but will allow the startup surge to happen in order to get the motor to start but it'll trip out if it draws too much like if it is getting stuck.

I'd add a 3 wire grounded cord and a fuse make sure the tin and motor and any large metal parts are grounded so it can blow your breaker if it shorts.

I'd look into using a peltier cooler if you can do that without affecting the origional mechanics of it too much. You dont; wan to go cutting bug holes and stuff. I would not restore the cabinet, it will decrease it's value.

if you speak to a tech he may be able to recharge it or change the fixed orifice to use a different refrigerant, he may be able to check the gas pressure to see if it is running longer than it should because it has leaked half the original charge. I think this is likely. I doubt they will want to recharge it with the original gas since its dangerous.

check all the wire, yes you might have to open any tin casing to see it. it is very possible to have wiring degradation from age. sometimes you can cautiously leave old cloth covered wire but if it as any rubber wire ( even from a 1960's repair) the rubber is likely peanut brittle or mush by now. You need to see it to check it. I wouldn't run it more until you have a closer look at things as a lot of failures from aged components can be caught before a catastrophic failure. add a fuse where the wire enters the case, on the hot side of the wire and make sure the plug is polarized. the hot ( black wire in your house or smaller hole in your outlet) should go to the switch. a lot of old things didnt' have polarized cords. I'd add a grounded cord and ground any tin and the motor etc. then if it shorts to the case you get a blown breaker in your panel rather than electrification of the tin.

I bet you could steal the peltier device from a cooler , like one you pay 100 new for that is the size of a bar fridge. Not sure where youd mount it so I 'd look at that first. that would make it safe quiet and reliable and reasonably efficient but you'd need to know where to put the thing without butchering it and loosing the originality in order to do the mod..

If you run it you might be able to add a heat activated switch so that it turns off if it gets over temperature.. sort of like the thing that your coffee machine uses to turn on and off only the reverse. the one in your coffee maker turns it on when its cool and off when hot you want one that turns it off if its too hot.

I'd pull the motor apart and give it a good cleaning inspection and lube and get any dust out of it so it can cool better. Id leave the pump alone except to clean it and check if there might be a hole for a drop of oil near its bushings. at bear minimum just turn the motor to make sure it can spin freely with the belt off or with the pump uncoupled.

if it were sitting a long time the motors might need lube, this isn't' something you need to do often. don't squirt oil inside the motor. If you dont want to take the motor apart you might be able to blow any dust out to allow it to cool better. the heat is probably more from the compressor. what I'd do is since you have run it , maybe cautiously do it again , then unplug and immediately open any covers , that way you can feel things while it is still warm and that might give some indications. for example if the motor is warm at one end check its bushings more closely.

its cool that it works ( pun intended) you now know it has all it's parts and they function at least somewhat but I wouldn't start using it really until its checked more.

see what you can find from the forums and online about conversion and such. we had some deaths near here from an ammonia leak. Id be a bit cautious until you know more and I couldn't say if this is something you'd smell before it hurts you or not. If you are going to take that chance find out more. Even if it hurt a pet it would be sad.

[1918ColonialRevival]

checkk all the wiring , inspect he cord. maybe find out if you can convert the gas it uses.



if you speak to a tech he may be able to recharge it or change the fixed orifice to use a different refrigerant, he may be able to check the gas pressure to see if it is running longer than it should because it has leaked half the original charge. I think this is likely. I doubt they will want to recharge it with the original gas since its dangerous.

Most of the refrigerators of this era didn't have a port for adding refrigerant or checking pressure like newer cooling systems do. If it's completely original and one hasn't been added somewhere along the line, I seriously doubt it will have one. Also, the older compressors won't cool with R-134a or any of the other common refrigerants found today - to convert it will likely involve swapping out the compressor with an inferior new one that will probably need to be replaced in another 5-10 years. It wouldn't need a recharge unless one of the lines got broken. By the OP saying the unit cools, the refrigerant and the lines are good. Otherwise, the refrigerant would have bled out a long time ago and there wouldn't be any left.

A lot of the fear over the older refrigerants is based on paranoia propaganda. I wouldn't recommend opening up a line and huffing any of them, but even if someone broke one of the lines, it wouldn't be any more than an unpleasant experience. You would need to open the windows and use a fan or two to ventilate the area. But, those lines almost never break on their own.

I'm betting he'll find a ton of dust in there when he takes that top cover off.

[Lily left the valley]

Wonderful find. Hope the restore goes well.