Remove part of baseboard?

[DavidP]

I just ordered a large bookcase and want it to sit flush against the wall. The people who will make it say that they sometimes notch out the bottom of bookcases to fit tight over baseboards. The problem is that I don't have a sample to give them, and the baseboard is a tall, fairly complex profile (Victorian house, of course).

If I remove the baseboard behind where the bookcase will go, there would be no issue. If I could get it off in one piece and store it in the attic, subsequent owners could reinstall it if they wanted to take out the bookcase (I probably won't take it with me because it's sized for this exact location). Some filler and paint touchup, and no one would be the wiser.

There's that "if" part. I've never done anything like this before. What would be the appropriate tool to slice through an installed baseboard? I need to remove about half the baseboard, leaving the other half as is on the wall.

I also wonder what is behind the baseboard. How did they do things back in the day? If, for instance, they put rough boards around the perimeter, then did the plaster, and finally added the baseboards, that would be good since there would be a solid back behind the baseboard. If it's just the bottom of the plaster, that might be dicier. I would appreciate any suggestions!

[phil]

in my house no the plaster wasn't finished, I think they slapped in the baseboards while the plaster was wet and no they didn't finish it behind. I would just notch the wall unit, why is this hard?

[lovesickest]

Yes, the situation in my house is that the plaster was finished on top of the baseboard, and when the baseboards were removed from one area there was no wall there. Removing this baseboard, even when done carefully, damaged the original plaster as well.

You could purchase a profile or contour gauge to make template to give to your carpenter, etc. (if they don't have their own gauge)to remove that approximate profile from the bookcase. It doesn't sound like the simpler solution - but it is...

http://www.fine-tools.com/G309631.html

[DavidP]

@phil, notching the bookcase is hard because the profile is complex and I don't have an extra piece of old baseboard around to give to the shop as a pattern. But see next line . . .

@lovesickest, that's it -- a contour gauge! I used one decades ago but never owned one and forgot about them. I'll get one which should give an accurate outline of the profile for the wood shop guys to work from. Thank you for the suggestion and for discouraging me from taking out the baseboard.

[Sacto Diane (WavyGlass)]

@phil, notching the bookcase is hard because the profile is complex and I don't have an extra piece of old baseboard around to give to the shop as a pattern.

It seems to me that the notch in the bookcase doesn't have to match the profile of the baseboard exactly. There just needs to be enough room to allow the bookcase to be flush to the wall.

[DavidP]

Yes, one could do a rectangular cutout. But it wouldn't look as nice or as "built in." The folks at the wood shop seemed accustomed to matching the exact shape in such situations so I'd like to try that. If they say it's too complex when I get the actual profile, I can live with the rectangle.

[phil]

just cut two wood strips to put on the back edges of the bookcase, no notch needed. you probably can't even see the top back. if it doesn't fit the profile of the baseboards countour it won't matter much. just cut it square so there will probably be a garbage can or a lamp or something there beside it anyway? its good to get a couple of screws in the wall too because it has happened where people load stuff like that up with collectables and it falls forward. even if it is only going to happen in an earthquake or because somebody elses kids are doing something like standing on shelving or drawers. you don't want it falling forward. if there is no back on it then just nail some thin panelling of your color choice on the back of it so nothing falls behind the shelves. even a door skin or the sheets they put between cabinet quality plywood sometimes are ok for that. it can be just thin. you can cut it with a knife and a straightedge. you can even paint the back the color of the wall if you like that.

[Nicholas]

What Phil said about attaching bookcases etc to walls.

If not contouring cut the book case at baseboard, get as close as you can and then use filler, or caulk. Who is going to get that close to notice?

[wletson]

What they said, listen.
I cringed at the idea of removing the baseboard, mostly because if you decided that wasn't where it was going to live in the future... you've designed yourself into a really bad corner. If the cabinet maker is willing to contour the back of the cabinet great. The rectangular notch idea could easily be concealed too.
If it was basic baseboard, not an issue. Something that would have to replicated, I would have an issue removing it .

[Mick_VT]

Modifying the house to fit the furniture seems like turning the room to fit a lightbulb to me.