The front facade of my 1890's Victorian row house has very thin mortar joints, about 3mm in width. The brick work is in great shape, with the exception of my parapet wall (I have a flat roof) where a piece of stone coping has come loose and some water presumably infiltrated over a number of winters.
I noticed that the wall is beginning to bulge slightly and needs to be rebuilt. Luckily, the bulge is above the roofline, so I can easily disassemble and rebuild from my roof. My issue is this: I have never laid a brick joint that thin.
Does anyone have an recommendations on whether a different mortar than most traditional lime mixes for a joint that thin? The bricks are high quality and only used on the front facade. The house is painted, so I am not as worried about a perfect joint, but I would like to match as close as possible.
I am near Cincinnati, Ohio if that helps.
Thin Mortar Joints/Rebuilding Parapet
- kyblue (WavyGlass)
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Re: Thin Mortar Joints/Rebuilding Parapet
Can you post a photo? We have a flat roof with parapet on our Victorian row house too that needs repair.
- Jeepnstein
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Re: Thin Mortar Joints/Rebuilding Parapet
Are the bricks that glazed yellow refractory looking ones that are so common in your area, and mine? I've worked with them quite a bit if they are. What is the approximate age of your house? And is the mortar colored?
- kyblue (WavyGlass)
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Re: Thin Mortar Joints/Rebuilding Parapet
I'll try to remember to snap a picture next time I am on the roof.
The bricks aren't glazed, they are traditional, dark red bricks, but they are clearly the finer ones frequently used only on the facade. The house was built in 1890s, so it is about 125 years old. Definitely have lime mortar, based on the age, but I can't tell if the mortar was dyed because it is painted. *I think* it is a darker grey (not black) based on some areas where I've scraped paint, but I can't be sure without taking bricks up right now.
The bricks aren't glazed, they are traditional, dark red bricks, but they are clearly the finer ones frequently used only on the facade. The house was built in 1890s, so it is about 125 years old. Definitely have lime mortar, based on the age, but I can't tell if the mortar was dyed because it is painted. *I think* it is a darker grey (not black) based on some areas where I've scraped paint, but I can't be sure without taking bricks up right now.
- Casey
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Re: Thin Mortar Joints/Rebuilding Parapet
To get the mortar to flow that thin, the bricks will have to be fully soaked in a barrel overnight; otherwise they will draw the water out of the mortar and you will not be able to tap them down level.
I presume because of the bow you will be taking the warped part down and re-laying; there's no other way to take the belly out of a brick wall. For the rest of it, the thing to do is to wet down the cleaned out joints, spray water inside to wet it and clear the dust, and immediately use the grout bag to fill the margin.Don't neglect to match the surface treatment of the mortar joints to what was done originally. I have seen 1/4" mortar joints worked to a convex bead-molding shape on a huge facade,unbelievable craftsmen.
Casey
I presume because of the bow you will be taking the warped part down and re-laying; there's no other way to take the belly out of a brick wall. For the rest of it, the thing to do is to wet down the cleaned out joints, spray water inside to wet it and clear the dust, and immediately use the grout bag to fill the margin.Don't neglect to match the surface treatment of the mortar joints to what was done originally. I have seen 1/4" mortar joints worked to a convex bead-molding shape on a huge facade,unbelievable craftsmen.
Casey
The artist formerly known as Sombreuil