Antique lighting

[Sow's Ear Mal]

Hi folks. I just acquired these hanging lights. Not sure what to do with them; should I rewire them? The marrettes are ceramic, I've never seen that. And the black finish, should I carefully pick it off? Are they of any value? I haven't got a place to use them at the moment. Thanks for any advice, Mal

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[lovesickest]

They look like they have been painted, for sure. I am guessing they are from 1915 to perhaps early 1930's ? I think these type of cast iron lights were common in middle class homes. I have a couple of ceiling mount fixtures (no dangling parts) that are similar. I don't think they are precious, but but can be pleasing in the right context. I stripped one of mine, and stripped and painted the other a basic ivory. Both are installed and in use.

The fastest way to get the paint off is to take the lights apart completely. Photograph them first - take lots of pics of how things fit together - this is really important.

It is a good idea to rewire them anyway - so don't feel back about snipping wires or removing sockets to discard and replace.

I use an old enamel canning pot - a really big one. Fill it 2/3 full water - enough to immerse all the parts completely . When it is boiling add TSP - Trisodium Phosphate - a powder usually found in the painting aisle of the hardware store. I use about 3/4 cup of TSP for a large pot +/- . In my experience, it takes between 5 - 30 minutes for the painted finish to soften enough to scrub off. You may need to re-immerse the part, or pick away at stubborn areas with a small tool like an Xacto blade, dental pick, etc. The metal underneath will be revealed with its original patina intact. An old toothbrush or scrub brush is also handy.

TSP is relatively non toxic - don't breathe the dry powder. Wear gloves if you prefer - who knows what is in the old paint ? I keep a pair of tongs handy, and those silicone oven mitts to handle the parts. That cast iron really holds onto heat so they will be very hot when you remove them from the boiling TSP bath.

[Sow's Ear Mal]

Thanks for the info. And I found a highly sophisticated method of determining whether they were iron or not. And yeah, the magnet stuck.

[Mick_VT]

So coppered iron most likely. an alternative to lovesickest's method is to use a crock pot either with TSP or just some detergent in it. Let it cook overnight. It will remove the paint, and likely any lacquer form the coppering too. So once you have it cleaned up you will need to re-laquer. I have used an automotive product from Eastwood that works wonderfully for this. http://www.eastwood.com/diamond-clear-gloss-set.html

[phil]

cook it overnight ? Id just use paint stripper it'll wash right off. use a plastic brush with more clean stripper after you get most of it off.. The TSP might work sure, but don't scrape or use steel wool etc. let the chemicals do the work.

[phil]

maybe you'd like to copper plate it ?
http://hackaday.com/2013/11/01/copper-e ... -safe-way/

[Mick_VT]

IME the cooking usually does a bit more thorough strip phil, and you dont need to deal with the chemicals, nor buy them (its cheap) but each to their own

[Texas_Ranger]

maybe you'd like to copper plate it ?
http://hackaday.com/2013/11/01/copper-e ... -safe-way/

The verdicts are a bit mixed on that process I'd say (just reading the comments).

[Sow's Ear Mal]

Great advice, all around. Unfortunately these won't fit in my crock pot, but I may try stripper, since I have it around. The copper finish is in very good shape even with my swiss army knife assault. (I'll never get that thing sharp again) But truth be told, They may end up a distressed off-white in the end. (don't hate me, purists) They'll look great in my bedroom, but hubby may get a concussion or poke an eye out.----ml

[phil]

Mick may have a point with the TSP because stripper kind of dissolves the paint and it is hard sometimes to get it all out but the TSP may make it kind of float off in larger chunks.. another thing that can possibly work is to use a larger tray like a washtub and put water and washing soda. it will have a similar effect.

I have experimented with muriatic acid too, but it is super nasty stuff and I dont' really recommend anyone uses it the fumes are terrible.. I can't believe they sell it. Thats what they use for fracking for gas..

For a while I was mixing that about 1:3 with water and if I drop car parts in it it strips all the paint and rust then Id use baking soda solution to neutralize it then warm it up with propane right away and get paint on because it will rust. I accidently put some alunimum parts in they completely dissolved. Its for cleaning cement floors, if you buy t be really aware the fumes are nasty one good breath and you will feel like you are going to die.

for rust removal this works great though, use washing soda , put that in a plastic bin with water, use a car battery or car battery charger. one lead to the rusty thing you are cleaning. the other to a hunk of stainless steel. it will bubble. if you get polarity wrong the stainless plate will bubble. make it so the piece you are cleaning bubbles. it will completely remove the rust and will leave a kind of black deposit. I tried it on some rusty files and some huge drill bits and it worked very well , when you take the parts out they have some black stuff on them but you can wash that off with soap and water or maybe some baking soda and water.

I would prefer the washing soda methods to most as its not as nasty to work with and it'll remove the paint in a similar way to the TSP method.

I wouldn't even play with the muriatic acid it is best not to even buy that stuff, I have used lots of chemicals but that is one that I'd definitely use with a great deal of respect and caution if at all.