Weatherstripping a warped door

[csnyder (WavyGlass)]

Two of the exterior doors on our house have interlocking metal weatherstripping that does an excellent job - I could detect no air infiltration when we had a blower door test done last spring. The other door, however, has no weatherstripping - during the test, there was a breeze coming in past the (closed) door.

I'd like to install the same sort of weatherstripping on this door (I'm aware of a couple of sources for it - Accurate Metal Weatherstrip and Kilian Hardware both carry it). However, the door appears to be warped - the top comes in quite a bit. Does anyone have experience with dealing with a warped exterior door like this? I guess we could use spring bronze or a newer rubber style, but I'd really like to use the interlocking weatherstrip, which seems to have done an excellent job on the other two doors for decades (if not the full 96 years of the house's existence).

Thanks in advance for any ideas!

[Lakee911 (WavyGlass)]

Doors can suck. You won't be able to unwarp the door so I wouldn't start there. You can remove the door stop and reposition it (typically it will bend enough) to follow the contour of the door. From there you can put the weatherstripping on.

I'm not familior with this interlocking type. Do you have a sample? I like the spring broze type myself.

[Neighmond]

Is the interlocking weatherstrip the stuff that looks sort of like standing seam joint? Like Lakee911 said: If the door stop will come off, I would move it to conform to the door's present (warped) profile and weatherstrip that. If the jamb is rabbeted for the door, you may be able to cut a shim to take up the slack.

Maybe you could try some spring bronze-it may do all right considering.


Cheers!

Chaz

[jschneider]

Our back door doesn't fit in its frame quite square.... we had great luck with the brass strip weather stripping, which is quite similar (I think) to what you're talking about. I just had to pop it out further from the jamb in certain spots.

[heartwood]

if you go with the interlocking weather stripping, it'll be a bit of a task depending on how warped the door is...you could route out the stile side of the door, insert the ws, close the door and then trace both sides--interior and exterior--of the door...remove the ws from the door and install it on the door following the trace lines...you have to get it just right...start out with just one nail at the top and middle, close the door and, if it fits, install more nails...

if you go with the spring bronze, may i suggest accurate metal as the guage is significantly heavier and especially good for doors or sash that are very loose...beware, the bronze nails at accurate are $44 a pound!

...jade

[Casey]

Hi,
If it has a rabetted jamb, I would plane it (with a rabbet plane; worth owning) so the door closes evenly even with the warp; if the doorstop is applied molding, then remove it and re-apply allowing for the warpiness.
Casey

[Lakee911 (WavyGlass)]

Hi,
If it has a rabetted jamb, I would plane it (with a rabbet plane; worth owning) so the door closes evenly even with the warp; if the doorstop is applied molding, then remove it and re-apply allowing for the warpiness.
Casey

Depending on the warp, that might cause the door to close past 0 degrees which would cause issues with it inset into the frame from the inside (assuming it opens in) or damage/stress to the hinges. If this is done, it would be best to apply molding to the newly removed rabbit.

You can also a new apply door stop over the rabbit edge letting it hang past to cover the warped portion.

[Casey]

Hi,
If it has a rabetted jamb, I would plane it (with a rabbet plane; worth owning) so the door closes evenly even with the warp; if the doorstop is applied molding, then remove it and re-apply allowing for the warpiness.
Casey

Depending on the warp, that might cause the door to close past 0 degrees which would cause issues with it inset into the frame from the inside (assuming it opens in) or damage/stress to the hinges. If this is done, it would be best to apply molding to the newly removed rabbit.

You can also a new apply door stop over the rabbit edge letting it hang past to cover the warped portion.

If hinge binding becomes a problem, then the plane and chisel once again becomes the solution. AEsthetically always better IMO to have none of the door proud of the jambs.
Casey

[csnyder (WavyGlass)]

Thanks for all of the tips. I'll try to remember to take a picture tonight to show more detail.