Parting beads?

[Vala]

Since I am working on the project of getting my new wood windows installed, the concern has come to obtaining parting beads. I've read online everywhere that they are 3/4" x 1/2", however I did find broken parting beads in my attic and they measure 9/16" x 13/16". I've never seen any discussion about "off" sized parting beads, I realize it's just a 16th of an inch difference on each side, however when I fit these into the groove they fit tight just by being pressed into place, but with the 1/2 x 3/4 they would probably need to be nailed.

I was wondering if I should buy some Fir 2x4's and have them cut or if I should go with commercially made parting beads, I did find (at least online) that Home Depot sells pre made parting beads in Fir that are unpainted.

So I'm not really sure which to go with, however the tight fitting parting beads were originally nailed as well.

EDIT: I looked at the home depot page again it seems that it may just be a discontinued item So this thread may be a moot point other than to ask if there's any difference between 1/2 x 3/4 and 9/16 x 13/16. Thanks

[Gothichome]

Vala, the beads on Gothichome are just a friction fit, no nails. A bit of a fight to get them out to restore the windows but that could just be a 140years of being in place. To reinstall I just used a peice of 2X4 as a hammering surface and tapped them back in place. I think it's dest to be just a little tighter than looser.

[SkipW]

When I restored several windows here, I just made my own along with stops. Really quite easy with a few basic tools. That way you can make them fit perfectly and even make one-offs if you so desire to fit any anomaly of the individual grooves.

I would not recommend a 2x4 unless you want poor quality stops (unless you have straight grain perfect 2x4's where you live!)

I used #1 pine to make mine, good straight grain an no flaws.

[heartwood]

parting beads are meant to be a tension fit without nails...that said, sometimes the groove is worn, especially at the bottom which may require a nail or shim...they should fit snug and go in with a tap of a hammer...I use a solid 1x block of mahogany so the pb does not get dented...if the pb is loose over most of the length, use a wood shim at the exterior side to tighten it up..shingles make great shims but you can also purchase small packs of them...put the shim in place where it is holding the pb in nice and snug then, with a new utility razor, cut the shim....with the remaining shim, tap the small piece of shim in so it is not visible...

the depth of the pb is important...if it is too wide, it will hit the cut out at the meeting rail and bind the sash....

hope that makes sense......
....jade

we use Spanish cedar for parting beads...mahogany is also a good choice...if you have a table saw, it's pretty easy to rip the size you need...

[Kashka-Kat]

Ive used the commercial made ones since they were cheap and easy and like you wasnt sure they would make a difference or not. They do the job of holding the window sash in place but are definitely not as good a fit, noticeably smaller and loosely fitting. FWIW! Unless cost is an issue Id definitely prefer better fit.

[Vala]

Thanks for the input, everyone. We will just make our own since it seems commercially made ones cannot be had. I always select lumber that tends to be free of defects or knot holes.

[phil]

how about this. it's just a cheap 40 dollar saw but would do for now and then you can push it aside when you find something a bit better.

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/for/5836908543.html

I'd use fir but maybe look for a scrap of finer grain stuff , like from some other old house part?
if you cut it a hair on the tight side you can plane or sand to fit. You don't' wan to split the thing but if it would tap in that would be ideal but even if you stuck a piece of whatever, gasket paper, cornflakes box would do. trim off whatever sticks out after you tap it in place. if it's much of a gap you can cut a thin tapered bit of scrap to fit or just re-cut the parting bead to fit. sand the hard corners to get it started but if it won't go , dont' go crazy with the hammer, just pull it back out and youll see damage marks on the bead where it's tight , just sand off the marks and try again until it fits to your liking.

I don't think id worry about the shim being water proof, if you were you could use milk carton, that wont' absorb water. they used to be waxed but now they are plastic coated.