Wait time after blopping? And primer recommendations?

[phil]

maybe one factor here is the topcoat you are using , if you follow the previous recommendations and you are using a paint that would allow the blopentene to be mixed in to it, in other words it's compatible, (oil based) then maybe if it is a wee bit soft it can still combine. If you topcoat with latex, that isn't compatible with turps or with linseed oil so maybe you'd want more dry time? the latex might act like a plastic sheet overtop and not allow off-gassing, or worse if there is off-gassing under the latex it might cause bubbles and break the bond.

You might be able to add Japan dryers. we used to sometimes add it to ink when printing on certain things that weren't very absorbent. Only a teeny bit was needed and it helped it dry. I assume a little added to blopentine might speed things if the weather isn't super warm? By speeding drying I guess it may also reduce penetration. Has anyone tried this? If you try it I'd add only to what you can use, or it might cause your supply to harden up. I noticed they had it in Ben Moore.

Phil

[historicalwork]

I don't have much to add here other than from all my past questions on restoring windows - much of the advice coming from jade and others - i've settled on BM paint. I know there is no shortage of discussion about how it's not about the brand. But from all my desktop research, I settled there for all i've done. I've used the oil primer as well and like it. Then I've used other BM products for wood or concrete sills. I also used the patio or porch paint with good success. For whatever the reason, I've had good luck. Nothing scientific and I'm far from an expert. In the people's republic of Maryland, you can't get gallons of oil-based paint. So, I sneak across border to WV to get the paint from a very helpful paint store. I even called them back one time and thanked them again for their advice and said how I would gladly drive the extra 45 min to their store simply because they are willing to offer helpful advice. When you don't know what the hell you're doing it means the world to have someone that can give you the guidance you need.

[Manalto]

I'm reviving this thread to ask a couple of questions that have arisen while restoring my first (YAY!) wooden window. (It had a cracked pane, so it came first.)

After treating with blopentine (50/50), how long should I let it dry before primer?

Scraping went well (Bahco triangular scraper is great) but there is a curve on the inside wood. Just careful sanding?

Missing chunks of the profile where the lock was turned around and gouged the wood - best way to repair?

[heartwood]

hey james!
wipe on a liberal amount of blop then wipe off what doesn't get absorbed in a couple of minutes...you can use a paper towel then TOSS THE OILY TOWEL/RAG IN A BUCKET OF WATER otherwise you might be posting a photo of your charred house...allow 24 hours in a warm dry climate...air circulation is important...if you set the sash outdoors, don't put it in direct sunlight...

when you say a 'curve', do you mean the profile (decorative curve, ogee, ovalo) on the interior muntins and/or stiles (vertical) and rails (horizontal)?...some people use a curved blade...I use the triangle for everything...I am careful and have a ton of experience...it takes gentle practice then a good sanding with 100 grit sandpaper...those triangle blades are not cheap AND they CAN be sharpened... https://www.smithsproducts.com/pack-pal ... harpener...

if it was me--and most of my clients--I would just leave the knicks and dents from hardware...when I do repair them, I cut out a chunk of the wood with approximate 45 degree angles, fashion a replacement piece close to the profile, glue it in place then finish it off to match the existing...you can use sculpting epoxy but it may not last long..

and there you have it.....
....jade

[Manalto]

Great. I have a big industrial fan in my window-restoration room. I set it on exhaust when sanding or painting and reverse it for drying. Great air circulation.

I bought the sharpener! Learned about it at this wonderful shop in Charlemont.

Yes, I mean the decorative profile on the stiles and rails. (This is the bottom sash of a 6/1 window, so no muntins - yet.) I will be careful and patient with the triangular blade. I've noticed sandpaper doesn't do much to that old oil paint - that stuff is tough. I find this work meditative and rewarding, so have no problem being patient with this task.

I'm OK with minor imperfections. I have zero woodworking skills so I guess I'll either have to be OK with the major ones too - or learn some skills.

[TexasRed]

Jade - Your masterful skills never ceases to impress me. It takes patience (& experience) plus a very steady hand to scrape curved profiles with the triangle blade!

James - may I suggest you save yourself some angst & frustration - get a few of the curved blades from Bahco. As you progress through your restoration you will encounter many different curved profiles in your windows or trim that the triangle just won’t fit into.

The Pear & Drop blades are invaluable for those curves - small or large. Both ends of the blade are useful on both of these.

Bahco Pear blade

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Bahco Drop blade

05C3D7A0-0C3B-4533-ADA8-46EB03F9B288.jpeg (29.16 KiB) Viewed 798 times

While you are shopping, get yourself a Dental Pick or two. You’ll use these in the corners of the windows, between trim pieces, in cracks etc.

So glad I learned about the Bahco scrapers here - our project would not have been possible without them. Along with a crew of 2, we have spent the last 15 months scraping every single inch of the exterior of our house (except window sash). We have a lot of curved trim profiles, from tiny to 8” crown moulding. The triangle blade is probably the blade we used the most overall, but as a newbie I found it quite easy to slip off a concave or convex curve and leave a gouge in the wood The curved blades were a huge help. Of course, we got better at it as we went along.

As far as repairs - we are quite pleased with Abatron Liquid Wood and Wood Epoxy. The wood epoxy is easy to mix, yet a bit weird to apply - sticky but doesn’t readily “feel like” it sticks to the wood. However, once cured it is rock hard but very easy to sand down to make the repair blend in to the profile.

Hope this helps in some way. Keep up the great work on your house!

[Manalto]

Thanks, Tex, it helps a lot. It's really easy to slip with the triangle, and that point is quite sharp. I've ordered the pear and drop; they'll be safer in my inexperienced hand.

Also, the Abatron products seem like a good solution to those damaged areas where profile is "chewed" away and need to be built up. Most of my windows (I'm fortunate that all of them are original) are in good, albeit neglected, condition but the bottom rail on a couple of them is damaged. Staples all over the window frame indicate that the PO put plastic over the windows in the winter and I suspect prolonged exposure to condensation caused the problem.

I already have dental picks - somewhere. Sigh. Have you ever asked yourself this question: "What will take less time and be less of a hassle - to find X or buy a new one?"

[phil]

not knocking the nice carbide cutter blades you can buy, they will work well , just wanted to add that if you desire you can pick up an old handsaw or a card scraper and you can then file or grind that stuff to shape. its a good use for any old handsaw with a cracked blade. If you have a little dremil with tiny grind stones, that works well. you can usually find the dremils with a an assortment of tooling for not very much.
you might spend a little time grinding the blade and seeing how it fitrs the profile until you get it to fit perfectly. that way you can make a scraper to any profile by yourself. It wont' scrape for as long as carbide without a sharpen but you might also use some stripper to soften the paint just on the profile area then use your home made tool to chase the profile once the paint is gummy. If you want you can also just start with a stick and use the scraper to shape the stick into a bit more molding , it's a good trick when you find you only need another foot or so of some weird profile. you can make it yourself.

[Manalto]

It's always good to know about alternate options, especially when you can extend the life of a defunct tool with a little finagling. I learned about Bahco blades here and, as a total newbie, have taken my equipment cues from Jade, since she's been doing this long enough to make informed decisions on the tools that work best for her.

Speaking of which, I scraped the narrow decorative profile on the stiles and rails of my maiden-voyage window, carefully, with the triangular blade. It went well, if I do say so myself. I can't wait for mail-order blades to arrive, nor can I wait for the recommended epoxy, so I got what was available at Lowe's. Jade suggested I use Sarco to fill cracks or depressions because it will expand and contract - and stay in place. I used the epoxy in areas that needed to be built up. I'm keeping my expectations low, and if it fails, I'll be no worse off than if I hadn't tried (minus the cost of the epoxy).

[mjt]

Catching up on this thread:

• I. Love. Impervo. Yes, it’s crazy expensive. I still have a serious crush on it.
• Don’t get paint at the big box stores. Go to a paint store.
• Don’t wear an orange t-shirt when you go to Home Depot. I was there to get some painting supplies and spent an hour answering questions for people. I can’t believe how long it took to convince someone looking for paint rollers that 1/2” is longer than 3/8”.
• You were given one mouth and two ears for a reason. Corollary: I don’t learn anything new by listening to myself talk…