Bronze Window Weather stripping

[nhguy]

I was curious how the bronze weather stripping sold by various companies works with windows that have sash weights and ropes. I've never used this before and frankly always owned houses that predated this technology. Thanks in advance for the answers.

[DavidP]

I was about to post a similar question. I've been reading up on spring bronze in preparation for (belatedly) doing a couple of windows before winter. There is no functional issue with the lower sash in windows that have weights, although some care is called for when nailing the bronze over pocket covers.

The big question seems to be what to do on the upper sash, where you can't put the bronze over the pulleys and cutting it to fit around is a pain and doesn't provide an airtight seal. Terence Meaney in his book Working Windows suggests using a v-shaped vinyl material on the upper sashes, while another book I consulted (Jordan is the author, IIRC) likes to use v-shaped (aka cushioned) bronze, not spring bronze. We have some window experts here and I'd really like to hear that they suggest about the upper sash, and also about whether and how to weatherstrip the bottom of the lower sash and the top of the upper. Thanks!

Moderators: does this thread belong in the Craftsman's Guild area?

[Sara]

What a well-timed post! Would also love to hear from someone with personal experience. My particular situation involves basement windows - they are the original hopper-style windows inside that open towards the ceiling and then a simple storm outside. I assume I apply spring bronze on all sides of the exterior but only the sides and bottom of the interior window?

Would be a wonderful wiki topic.. if I knew enough to write about the subject!

[CS in Low Hud]

Here's what I did... Not sure if it's correct, but it seems to work ok - there is a minimal space for airflow, but way better then no spring bronze at all . Maybe Jade can weigh in:



Close up of pully... you can see the gap:



Chris

[Kashka-Kat]

Hey me too! I look at the bronze in the store and I google and look up how to do it but just can't seem to move beyond

One thing that would help me is if I could understand how it was likely done when the house was first built - then I could just recreate that. Specifically, if my sash is a full 1/4 inch narrower in width than the window openings, can I assume that there was probably bronze in the channels like the picture above? Or is this not enough room to have bronze in the channels and have your sashes to go up and down easily .

Oh Im not seeing any little nail holes either in the channels which makes me wonder if those ever had any sort of weather stripping - only evidence of anything was some fabric stuff on one of the sashes where the upper and lower overlap.

Its confusing because theres different ways of doing it - some instructions have it on the sash or the parting stop BEHIND the window and not to the SIDE OF the window.

How to look at and analyze your window and decide which is the best way to do it?

Doors too - have some fairly significant gaps between doors/jambs

[heartwood]

if you have a good well fitting storm window, you may not need weather stripping...weather stripping serves a couple of purposes...first, it keeps drafts from coming in around the perimeter of the sash and, second, it allows for smoother operation of the sash as it takes up the slack of the space between sash and jamb...

we typically use V shaped spring bronze on the stiles and bottom rail and silicone at the meeting rail..

for sash that have a rope and pulley balance system, install the WS (weather strip) on the jamb...nail the VSB (V shaped spring bronze) so the apex (closed part of the V) is facing the interior...for sash that have no balance system, install the VSB on the sash with the apex facing the exterior...ease of installing the sash in the opening is the reason for the difference in how the WS is installed....

indeed, one must cut around the pulley for the top sash--really no way around it...I cut away just enough to avoid the pulley leaving the length intact...when installing WS on the jamb it's important to remember to nail the V closed at the very top of the strip so that it does not catch and rip...I typically avoid nailing into the pocket cover as it tends to bounce and could lead to wood breakage...depending on how much wood is available to nail into, I install a nail at the top and maybe an inch up from the bottom and 4" between...

you can apply VSB around the entire perimeter of each sash except the meeting rail...we route out a groove on the MR and install a silicone bulb...

when first built, the dimension difference between sash and jamb should be approximately an 1/8" and 3/16"--that's split evenly on either side...some sash are tight enough in the opening that you cannot install WS...if you feel strongly about having WS, you may choose to plane down each side of the sash...

regular spring bronze comes in a roll and appears at first glance to be flat...once nailed, the 'fin' can be lifted up/out to take up the space between sash and jamb...widths for regular SB range from 1/2" to 1 3/4"...the VSB is available in various lengths...widths for VSB range from 1/2" to 1 1/8"

either bronze WS can be used in doors as well...

for a hopper window (hinged at the top or bottom and opens to the interior), install VSB on the jamb with the apex facing towards the interior...

http://kilianhardware.com/sprinbronwea.html
http://metalstrips.accurateweatherstrip ... pring-type (B or S 182...B is bronze, S is stainless)
http://www.conservationtechnology.com/b ... seals.html we use WS32 or WS10 silicone bulbs...if you use this WS, I strongly encourage you to purchase the corresponding route bit slot cutter here too...

that's it for now........hope that helps more than it confuses......
....jade

[Graywings]

Thank you so much, Jade, for the helpful info. Can anyone help me understand the photo of the door weatherstripping in the Kilian website? It shows the weatherstripping attached to something - a block - and then there is a smaller block. Is one of those blocks the door? Or is the door not visible? I can't seem to relate this to my door.



It is from this page: http://kilianhardware.com/howtoinprspb.html

[Sara]

This is essentially what that image is showing:


I can't view the link at work but the image came from here: http://www.oldtownhome.com/2011/8/25/Old-Door-Weatherstripping-Dress-it-up-with-Spring-Bronze/. Might be good information.

[Casey]

http://metalstrips.accurateweatherstrip ... hung-sash-
Foolproof and permanent. A capital improvement. Available in bronze or zinc.

Casey

[DavidP]

Thanks, everybody. I will study all this, especially Jade's answer, when I have time this weekend. (Movers and carpet cleaners coming tomorrow . . . )