Rock lath patching after rewiring

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BrickCharmer
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Rock lath patching after rewiring

Post by BrickCharmer »

I am the proud new owner of a charming 1940 brick colonial revival home in northwest Florida.

I am attempting to patch about sixty 3.5" holes in the plaster after a complete rewiring.
3.5" diameter holes about 1" deep - 60 of them!
3.5" diameter holes about 1" deep - 60 of them!
what the holes look like.jpg (100.19 KiB) Viewed 2826 times
I'm dealing with what appears to be rock lath/gypsum board instead of wood lath. There are holes in the original rock lath, and the plaster keys are all in excellent condition.
inside walls.jpg
inside walls.jpg (148.41 KiB) Viewed 2826 times
I see what appears to be a mesh of metal in the cut parts of the plaster. The plaster in this entire house is in incredible condition - and extremely difficult to break into!

The electricians left most of the resulting "pucks."
what was left behind
what was left behind
pucks.jpg (119.44 KiB) Viewed 2826 times
What is the most efficient method for patching these holes? I'm at a loss as to how best to achieve some kind of backing for my patches without making larger openings. After this project, I plan to skim coat all walls and ceilings.

Any advice?

~BrickCharmer

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Gothichome
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Re: Rock lath patching after rewiring

Post by Gothichome »

Welcome to the District, my plan would be to place a slat behind the hole to act as a backer. Screw and glue it to the back of the hole. Screw to plug to the slat, then fill.
Tell us more of your home

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mjt
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Re: Rock lath patching after rewiring

Post by mjt »

What Gothichome said. A furring strip or chunk of 1x2 will work well in your situation. Cut it so that it extends a couple of inches beyond each side of your hole. Fish it into the hole, position it so that it runs across the hole inside the wall cavity, and attach it to the existing blueboard on each side of the hole. Here's an example photo of what it ought to look like before re-attaching the plug:
Image

1918ColonialRevival
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Re: Rock lath patching after rewiring

Post by 1918ColonialRevival »

I agree with the others. Wood lath can still be procured from most lumber yards and it isn't expensive. If you can't find lath, a piece of a furring strip will work. I'd use a piece as backing, put a little construction adhesive on it, and screw the cutout plugs onto them. Let it dry overnight, then go back and fill with joint compound. One tip I've learned for getting an even surface is to use a slightly damp smooth sponge across the wet joint compound to feather it out. You don't need to do near as much sanding after it dries that way.

Edit: I just noticed on a bigger monitor that your walls are rough texture. Skip the sponge, as a smooth repair will stand out too much.

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Re: Rock lath patching after rewiring

Post by BrickCharmer »

I'm so sorry it has taken me so long to get back to y'all! Most of the holes are now filled, and I started to skim coat today! It was an incredible feeling!

Initially, I tried to back my hole with self-sticking mesh. The old paper on the rock lathe was not taking it, so I went back to the web. I also didn't want to drive screws into the plaster if I could help it.

I then landed on an article at Fine Homebuilding that directed my approach. I got some quarter-inch metal mesh from the garden section and snipped pieces a bit larger than the holes. Then I put some wire in the center to hold on to it while it was getting positioned in the hole. Per the article, I wrapped the wire around a pencil (or popsicle stick) to keep the mesh in place. This looked a lot like the expensive patch kits I've seen at my local big box stores, so I decided it would work. I dabbed on bonding agent and let it dry. What I wanted to use for the patching was Structo-Lite or at least DuraBond. I couldn't find either, so (for better or worse) I used Easy Sand 90, which is what I planned to use to skim coat later on. I filled each hole in 2-3 applications. Once the first layer was firm, I removed the stick and pushed the wire into the remaining space to get covered by the next layer.

I tortured my first hole after a couple of days to make sure it was strong. It showed little evidence of my abuse, so I figure we were going to make it.

The next step is skim coating to smooth out the walls.

**** As I was typing this reply, I went back to Fine Homebuilding to look for the inspiration article. I found another article that essentially said what 1918ColonialRevival said and plug the holes with the leftover pucks. I would have needed to get something behind the hole to support the puck. This is what the plumber and the drywall guy told me today that they thought I should have done. (I'm having a bathroom added while I do this plasterwork.)

I initially considered reusing those pucks but (my inexperienced) logic made me think it would not be very strong if we later tried to drill a hole in that spot. I felt like my solid patch would hold up better in the future. Am I wrong?

1918ColonialRevival, I appreciate the tip with the sponge! I am hoping to not have to do much sanding as I skim coat.

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Re: Rock lath patching after rewiring

Post by Gothichome »

Glad you found a method you can work with. Post a pic of your repair and your finished wall.

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Re: Rock lath patching after rewiring

Post by Lily left the valley »

BrickCharmer wrote: Fri Jul 09, 2021 11:47 pmI'm so sorry it has taken me so long to get back to y'all! Most of the holes are now filled, and I started to skim coat today! It was an incredible feeling!
Folks that have been here long enough are a patient lot because they know how easy it is get wrapped up in house projects on top of other day to day things. ;-) I personally love progress reports even if they take a while because they inspire me; I often learn new things; I like to see repairs being done in general; and I get to see more pictures of different bits of old houses. :D
BrickCharmer wrote: Fri Jul 09, 2021 11:47 pmI initially considered reusing those pucks but (my inexperienced) logic made me think it would not be very strong if we later tried to drill a hole in that spot. I felt like my solid patch would hold up better in the future. Am I wrong?
It depends on the weight of whatever the hole was for, really. It is good to be steward minded about future residents that may own the home and would have no idea such a repair had been done because your finish was flawless, but if someone is going to mount something heavy like a very large flatscreen on a wall and there's no already existing vertical framing behind the wall they can use, they should reinforce said wall even if it is sturdy lathe and plaster that hasn't started to pull away from the keys. If only because over time, that same flatscreen could cause the keys to start to pull away. (You can always scribble a memento of your work on the back of one of the pucks too that a later homeowner might find during repairs.)

FWIW, this is why some folks keep house records in various forms of work they've done that they intend to leave behind with the house, either when they pass away or sell it. That way future home owners would know "Oh, in the living room, x work was done" which might influence their own decisions about what they want to do in their home or don't need to do because it's already been done.

Depending on a home's era (this part is important), the strictest historical-minded folks will not make any hole in a wall except for purposes such as you did for rewiring, blown-in insulation, or reinstating likely/definitely original details like wall sconces. They'd rather use existing or install picture rail if there is evidence there was some before and hang things that way, or bring in wooden easels to display works if that was also the fashion in the era of the home.

The thickness of the pucks does help to an extent so long as the edge bond is good, however the backing suggested both mimics the lathe I think you said was already there, plus the vertical support in general. I've also seen videos of folks doing something similar to what you did (a string or wire to keep the patch taught in place) but with cut out sections they'd also backed with an old piece of screen, burlap, or what-have-you and before pulling it in, they'd apply either a glue or their skim material to help the edges of the backing stick once the wire/string was pulled forward. They'd snip the string or wire they had fished through the center before skim coating after the piece had "set" in place from whatever they used on the edges.
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