Glazing won't dry

[GibsonGM]

Interested in the 'peeled away' responses...I haven't seen that. Been using Sarco since Jade 'got me into it' for oh, 4 years or so, and have done about 80 sashes with it.
Something on the glass? Would linseed oil on the glass do it? Sounds odd (and scary after you did all that work!).

Forgot to add above...for those who can't find actual whiting, powered joint compound will do the same job. $10 gets you a big bag at the hardware that will last ages, just sift it on a bit, brush it around (not hard, don't screw up the glazing!), and tip the extra off after sitting a few mins. Then brush the glazing carefully to spread what remains around (very very light coat!). You can take most of the now-powdered oil off with a brush right then, but I follow up 1 or 2 days later w/ a single edged blade. Of course, prior to painting you will again use a dusting brush on the now-dry glazing to be sure it's not sitting there powdery.

[phil]

Probably not this, but if someone tried to thin Dap with linseed oil like they may do with a linseed oil based putty that might prevent it from drying, if it is incompatible. I'm not sure what would happen if you did try to do that.

[PaulJohnson]

I think I understand the issue. Pictures always help.

[Gothichome]

Folks, I have to confess, I use Dap and have no issues. My first windows I restored are going on to 10 years with no issues. I kneed the hell out of it when forming my sausage to apply. It is fussy to temperature, if it’s too cold it’s stiff to apply, to hot and the stuff sticks to the putty knife or drags the putty, and it is slow to skim dry. Over the years I have developed keen sense of how dap behaves. If it’s too hot I apply in the shade, a bit to cold I apply in the sun. There are two other issues with Dap, it is too stiff to mix in the tub, the second is the oils tend to separate out if it sits on the shelf for long periods of time either here or on the store shelf. For that I will will take out the putty out of the tub and kneed it and place back in the tub.
On the upside to Dap, when I run out I can go to my local hardware store and get more.
I am afraid if I use the good stuff like sarco I will become spoiled, and I don’t want that to happen.

[PaulJohnson]

Gothic - you will be spoiled if you try Sarco.
My only real complaint with DAP is the cure time.

I am still a glazing novice so I am reading with keen interest.

[GibsonGM]

I think Gibson mean to say sheet, not sheep

Well, sheep ARE nice and warm, Phil! Yes, sheet, a sheet!


I wonder if the Type M issue might be the 'weeks and weeks' before topcoating? I mean...2 weeks, that's fine. But could it shrink if left longer or something? I dunno. Well-worked putty shouldn't develop those conditions.

Did you oil the rabbet a bit before applying the glazing? If it was very dry, maybe it sucked the linseed right out of the Type M? Just speculating.

I've never gone more than 3 weeks without topcoating - haven't had any issues whatsoever.

Biggest issue I have with DAP is endless drying time, too goopy to work, and lack of durability.

[heartwood]

sorry you're having the peeling paint issue...not what you want to see when
you've spent so much time restoring them...in the many years i have used
sarco type m putty, i have noticed peeling only twice...once when i used a new
paint developed by fine paints of europe--a water based paint...it failed miserably
by peeling off the glass...another time was when i asked for an exterior based
water/oil emulsion paint and received the interior paint...

it can be peeling for so many different reasons...on a window restoration FB forum
we have agreed that sometimes it just happens...we do the same thing we've been
doing for years and it just happens, it's a mystery....i think it has more to do with
the paint than it does with the putty...

....jade

[GibsonGM]

I can buy that, Jade. As a painter, there are many things that can happen which you wouldn't see with something so simple as glazing.

How was the paint stored? Transported? How old is it? Did it bake in sun or freeze a little while in the truck?

I find that the more esoteric the paint (FPE, "Old Village" and the like), the less there is demand for it, and the cans sit on the shelf for AGES. I've had to use a gravy strainer to get the 'bits' out of it when customers spec them for their jobs. I now will NOT use anything but standard products such as Ben Moore, Sherwin Williams. There is no reason to HAVE to use a hard to find paint that may be gone next time you need just one gallon to finish. SW will match ANY color on earth, and their stuff is certainly of good quality and well cared for in the shop. The days of customers controlling WHAT I use are over, ha ha. They call the color and sheen, and the rest has to be up to the contractor.

I've seen places with pallets of base sitting right in the sun off the truck, 95 degree days. Waiting to be taken inside. For hours. This results in latex skin formation that is pulverized when they shake it, ruining the paint. Early separation may be a sign that the stuff was stored too cold, too. Those are some of the variables that can affect the durability down the road. If the putty was dry, I can't see how IT could be the thing causing separation.

[phil]

latex can't take freezing .

I'm not disagreeing with Gibson, but if you have other paints like car paints and spray bombs, epoxy, acrylic enamal and maybe lacquer, then try them because a lot of that is fine after many years. Ive even found old quarts that were pre 1970 that were still ok. car paints are really expensive. I'll often take home part cans from garage sales and whatnot and if they still spray out of the can I haven't had issue with that.

he has a point through don't paint your house with some junk that might have issues. clog the gun ,not dry, etc.. maybe if you are painting a wheelbarrow or some odd little project , with metal paint, it's different. I'd rather use stuff like spray bombs up than throw it in the landfill.

[GibsonGM]

latex can't take freezing .

I'm not disagreeing with Gibson, but if you have other paints like car paints and spray bombs, epoxy, acrylic enamal and maybe lacquer, then try them because a lot of that is fine after many years. Ive even found old quarts that were pre 1970 that were still ok. car paints are really expensive. I'll often take home part cans from garage sales and whatnot and if they still spray out of the can I haven't had issue with that.

he has a point through don't paint your house with some junk that might have issues. clog the gun ,not dry, etc.. maybe if you are painting a wheelbarrow or some odd little project , with metal paint, it's different. I'd rather use stuff like spray bombs up than throw it in the landfill.

I see no point of disagreement, Phil, ha ha. I have nothing re. spray cans, I don't use them any more than any other home-owner. No, (latex) paint can't take freezing - it will separate and never dry, or dry into some chaulky flaky garbage if you use it after that. Nor can it take baking in the sun, I think it Vulcanizes is Oil primers can sit all winter and still be use-able (tho I always buy new for customers, I will not re-use things that sat below freezing. Just on my own house!). Stored properly, latex WILL be ok for several years, but I try not to do even that. I can't 'save $50 on buying a new gallon' and cause several days of labor to fix a problem arising from junk product...I just buy more product, it's far easier and customers like to know their stuff is new.

After over-wintering in my basement, most stuff I bring home then becomes 'mine' to use on home stuff, or I just dispose of it/donate it, if it's not used right away in spring on the job.