A question for GibsonGM or any one else

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Gothichome
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A question for GibsonGM or any one else

Post by Gothichome »

I spotted this on the zinsser product page.
https://www.rustoleum.ca/product-catalo ... ing-primer
Being water based I will assume it is not sandable like automotive high build. Has any one used this product, if so what are your thoughts?
My thoughts are it’s a possible solution to my dried out front door micro cracks (for lack of a better term). This unfortunately restrict my final options to latex and alkyd. I was planning on using marine enamels.

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Re: A question for GibsonGM or any one else

Post by Munch517 »

I have been using Peel Stop Triple Thick, it fills some of the very small cracks but I used wood putty for anything more than the thickness of one or two pieces of paper. This high build version is interesting to me, I assume it's quite a bit thicker than the triple thick, I know the Peel Stop family of stuff comes pretty highly recommended.
Follow the progress on my house:

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=12988

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Gothichome
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Re: A question for GibsonGM or any one else

Post by Gothichome »

Munch, thanks for the input. My area of issue on the doors are at the bottom of the door. That area gets the full blast of the sun and and splashing during a heavy rain. The paint has filled all the small weather cracks and I can’t get it out. You can see it in the picture I posted on my restoration post.

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Re: A question for GibsonGM or any one else

Post by GibsonGM »

Sorry I didn't see this til now, Gothic, been VERY busy. Sunday, and heading out to work shortly, ugh...

I don't 'like' using high build primers...something about a thick coat that doesn't actually penetrate scares me a little. That said...yes, there is sometimes a need to do this. It won't fill as one may expect; it'll take many coats to 'show up', but if you have time go for it. If/when I *must* use a product like this, I use this guy:
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/primerx-peel-bonding-primer

In fact, I just said I don't like doing it, but I AM using exactly this on the (very) high rake of a gable end of a house I've been on for 2 mos...it was neglected for 30 years (!) and even scraping isn't going to be enough. Can't power sand it (lead regs)....this is its only hope really! Can't spend days pick pick picking at it, it's not in a place where that is feasible. The Zinsser will probably be fine if you can't get SW...

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Gothichome
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Re: A question for GibsonGM or any one else

Post by Gothichome »

Thanks for the reply Gibson. I was actually at the SW paint store yesterday looking at their paint options. There top of the line Emerald branded paint caught my attention. It’s a urethane paint. Any experience with that product?
My big concern with the high build primer is it being to thick and as well as filling in the little cracks it will also fill in the detail that I have so paint staking brought back. My original plan was to go with the Dulux enamel that was put on just after we bought.

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Re: A question for GibsonGM or any one else

Post by GibsonGM »

I guess it depends on if you can either 'solve' the crack issue another way (filler of some type?) and then paint, or want to just get it done in one with paint. The high build isn't THAT thick if you apply it with a regular brush; to get noticeable fatness out of it, you have to SLATHER it on, like 1/4" thick layers! It shrinks when it dries. I never use it that way; I only use it to assure bonding of a shaky surface that the job doesn't have the budget to strip all the way down. It's worth a try - can you post a pic of the subject area?


Emerald is AWESOME for areas you want to cover in one coat, with nice strong bond. Acts like latex, no diff. in cleanup or anything. It is VERY thick; a paint stick will stand up in the middle of the can. It dries faster than latex, some don't like that, you have to work fairly fast. I use it when I have to do something scary and want to only go up one time, LOL. You literally can scrape, sand, hit it with that and it is good. No idea how it fails yet tho, it not being an old product. I like to know what to expect in the future when it eventually dies. I see no need to use it on normal things like doors, for the price they want for it. I like Resilience satin on trim and doors, I find it to be tough, wears/fails normally, holds its color well, and can be used in cold/damp conditions (but not on wet wood of course!).

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Re: A question for GibsonGM or any one else

Post by Gothichome »

Once again Gibson thanks for your input. The more I look at Emerald the more I like it. As mentioned I was going with the old standby Dulux oil enamel. The thing though, being an enamel once it dries it has no flexibility and it fades fast under the searing heat of direct sun. We are going with a traditional black green colour so the temperature change over the course of a normal day will be a lot more than the forest green we had. In addition, since stripping and filling I am finding the filler is cracking from the edge of the trim with even a small temp change. This indicates to me our door has a lot of dimensional change. Don’t know if this a function of 140 year old wood or extremely dry wood. The elasticity of Emerald might just be enough to flex with the expansion/contraction. The price is secondary to the efforts I have put in to this project.
As for the small cracks in the door I filled today with a catalyst filler, tomorrow I will sand, end of micro crack issues.

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Re: A question for GibsonGM or any one else

Post by GibsonGM »

Seems like that's all you can do. Good luck! Let us know how the Emerald works out. I do think it is more flexible than most products; I think it has a good chance of holding up for you, and also will provide good color-fastness! As good as can be expected.

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Re: A question for GibsonGM or any one else

Post by Gothichome »

Gibson and all. The Emerald paint worked out great. I primed with SW’s general purpose primer and colour coated with two coats of Emerald. It laid down well and flattened out great. I found several peculiarities with the paint, despite what the promotional material says it will not cover in one coat, at least not the white primer. Also, I found once applied it will skim over on the surface but under the skim the paint still flows this tended to cause runs at the corners of vertical surfaces long after you had applied the paint. I found my self going back and knocking down the occasional runs a few minutes after painting. Not a big deal but it was a bit of a learning curve.
The paint was dry to the touch in about four hours and according to the literature it could have been second coated. I waited a full twenty four hours with no issues on the second coat. As with all modern paints it took four days for the paint to stop sticking to itself. Found this out while trying to open the door four days later.
I think I would highly recommend this paint for most purposes other than door and trim applications. But it’s not cheap, a bit over $100 (Can.) for a four litre can. My door project used up a bit over half the can.
Only time will tell how well it will hold up to the weather.

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Re: A question for GibsonGM or any one else

Post by nhguy »

I'm a bit of a paint freak, so the Emerald paint caught my attention. It sounds a bit like my favorite Aura paint by Benjamin Moore. I have had great results using Penetrol and turpentine mixed 50/50 as an under coat, then oil primer finally a top coat of Aura. I am not a pro like Gibson, just some I have learned from here plus trial and error. Sorry to be late to the party on this as I am here only once a week at most. Sorry to be so hit and run....

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