self leveling cement/epoxy?

[uglyokie]

I'm using precast column bases and there is a slight pitch on our concrete porch. Photo isn't so good but hopefully you can see where I'm going with this. There isn't much gap between the back of the base and the front of the base in order to make it level. The manufacturer of the base suggests using a fine tooth saw to cut the needed angle to compensate for the porch pitch.

I'm thinking I'd rather add to the porch than take away from the base. I recall seeing a brochure years ago of self leveling liquid compounds that dry like concrete. Seems like I could make a form and pour something like that into it, just enough to make a level spot for the base.

What do you think? Is there such a product? Is there a better way?

[1918ColonialRevival]

Instead of adding something like a structural epoxy, I think I'd shim it to make it level, provided it's only about 1/8 of an inch or so, then caulk the gap or use a product like the Abatron WoodEpox to fill the space. The Abatron is usually a more durable product.

[GibsonGM]

I'm with 1918 on this. I'd use a non-degrading shim material (ie, plastic) to support as much of that side as possible, keep it set in about 1/4" from the edge, then caulk or use the abatron. Abatron would likely shrink less than caulking. If you use caulk, be sure to paint it - it turns brown with age. It will shrink and pull eventually.

Don't fill the weep hole

[uglyokie]

I like your shimming it idea better. That's the way I'm going to do it. Thank you.

[phil]

using shims to support one end while the epoxy dries is ok, If you rely on a shim then the weight probably isnt' going to be evenly distributed throughout the base which can cause cracking. so if it has weight I'd just use little shims and fill the void with epoxy or hydraulic cement, that way the weight is evenly supported. you dont want to trap water or you'll have hydraulic jacking when it freezes. avoid use of iron or wood so the water cant' attack it. I once stopped and picked up a mud flap from a bus, it's thick plastic and good for ground or concrete contact. plastic wont stick to epoxy. cement will wick water so it is good to have isolation between any cement or plaster and wood. If you want to hide the gap you could use a cant strip , just a triangular strip that skirts the base, similar to a 1/4 round on a baseboard.
Id use shims to hold it plumb while the epoxy dries. if you ever want to remove epoxy from cement you can just heat it up with a blowtorch. If you want it permanent I'd use hydraulic cement and clean the area so it sticks.

[Gothichome]

Often the post were supported above the parochial deck with iron brackets. It allowed moister in any form to just evaporate rather than soaking into the wood post with the resulting rot.
In this brief by the preservation folks in the US is worth a read. About 2/3 down the page is a picture of what I am talking about.
https://www.nps.gov/tps/how-to-preserve ... orches.htm
An interesting read for any one with a porch I think.

[Gothichome]

Oh, by the way, you still can buy modern versions of the stand.

[phil]

Often the post were supported above the parochial deck with iron brackets. It allowed moister in any form to just evaporate rather than soaking into the wood post with the resulting rot.
In this brief by the preservation folks in the US is worth a read. About 2/3 down the page is a picture of what I am talking about.
https://www.nps.gov/tps/how-to-preserve ... orches.htm
An interesting read for any one with a porch I think.

maybe 1/3 down, this thing?
https://www.nps.gov/tps/images/briefs/45-post-foot.jpg

[phil]

so it appears the porch post isnt' supported by this piece, the deck is concrete and this thing just surrounds the structural post for cosmetic reasons. I assume it's not weight bearing.

my suggestion is to cut 4 strips of plexiglass or whatever plastic you have around, you can cut them on a tablesaw or however you are able. cut them to the length of the sides of the base of the thing.

Put a piece of plastic sheet ( like for vapor barrier) about 4 feet square where you want the post to be. tape it down.

surround the exact area with tape to help you place it in position accurately.

make some small wedges to keep the thing plumb while it sets up. do a dry trial run with no epoxy to make sure you have the process of flipping it and taping the dam in place sorted out. put the weep hole on the low side so it can drain.

use JB weld, it's grey so it will match the concrete deck. mix a fist sized batch of it and lay a bead around the perimeter of the cast piece, about 1/4 or so in from the edges.
wait - let the stuff tack up to a putty like state where it's not too drippy but not dry yet either. - ok work fast now once you have it in that state or it'll set up.

invert the thing and lay it down in the location you marked with tape.

put your plexiglass strips around it and tape in place , to form a dam so it cant run away and to retain it. press it down so your wedges touch. put one wedge in the weep hole to keep it clear. check that it's level.

try to get the JB weld to run out to the plexiglass strips and touch them all around. the stuff wont stick but it will take the form of the shiny plexiglass. since it is clear you can see through to see if it ran out evenly against the plexiglass form.

save your mixing board, once the remnants reach the state where it becomes a pliable solid, then remove your plexiglass form and all the tape. don't pick it up . let it set. If you want you can just walk away at this point and deal with removing the form later.

allow to cure 24 hours.

you can then pick it up and remove any plastic and make sure your weep hole is clear.

if you dont like it you can sand the JB weld or paint it or do more filling as necessary. If you use a different product it wont' matter. I just suggest JB weld since it is grey. If you want you can sand and paint it. the product wont really matter much but different types of epoxy have different amounts of working time.

if you need a solvent for cleanup use acetone. wear gloves so you dont get it on your hands.

if you wanted it stuck down you could omit the plastic sheet, but I'd keep it free because when you install the posts you might want to be able to shift it a little. also that way you wont make a mess of epoxy on your porch , its not easy to clean up.

if you have new plexiglass leave the protective plastic on it or you can use any soft shiny plastic instead. be resourceful you ll find some plastic but use plastic because epoxy wont stick to it. The epoxy wont stick to shiny clear plastic , it might stick to plastic if the plastic is porous. you could use wood sticks wrapped in plastic. paint mixing sticks might do fine. it wont stick to a plastic bag. if you just use wood it will stick and you wont be able to easily remove the form.

next day when you tiurn it over you cna trim off any runout or mess you dont like and you can build the stuff up and remove it just like bondo. if you didn't want to worry about filling the weep hole you could just file it back out the next day. it will fit the floor exactly where you chose it to be.

[Lily left the valley]

Often the post were supported above the parochial deck with iron brackets. It allowed moister in any form to just evaporate rather than soaking into the wood post with the resulting rot.
In this brief by the preservation folks in the US is worth a read. About 2/3 down the page is a picture of what I am talking about.
https://www.nps.gov/tps/how-to-preserve ... orches.htm
An interesting read for any one with a porch I think.

Thanks for this. This might explain some of the visual off-ness of our porch. It was redone at one point to whatever extent, and the area flanking the stairs is just off. Haven't pulled back sheathing yet to get a better look.