if you need a permanent scraper you can copy the profile on a piece of an old handsaw if you have an old cracked up one , its perfect for that. then you can file of cut with a dremil and if you want to check the fit just put a little paint on the wood then put the tool against it and you can remove just where it touches the paint to get it just right.
You obviously got by fine with the plastic one, at least the epoxy wont really want to stick to the plastic.
epoxy can't breathe like wood so avoid using more than you need , If you cover a big patch water may work between and the freeze and push the epoxy apart but the paint might help prevent that too. Ive tried screening my sawdust and add that to epoxy 50/50, it stretches out the epoxy a little if you use it as a filler like bondo and I dont think it hurts the strength.
I got two different kinds , free leftovers. one is some sort of crack filler its more rubbery. It's outdated stuff but it's fine. I fiber-glassed my back steps and used that instead of buying polyester resin. the other stuff I have is a clear yellowish color. I tried mixing in sawdust and it resembles wood then.
polyester is what they use to build a boat, it's stiffer, much cheaper. the epoxy is more flexible. but then if they repair a hole in a boat they use epoxy , it has better bond strength. the wood boat restorers are experts with this stuff. the two use different hardeners. epoxy is ofthe 1:1 or 1:3 or something the polyester uses that MEK ( methyl ethyl keytone) stuff in a smaller proportion. I think the bondo falls out more easily than epoxy.
I read the dust is more harmful before it's fully cured so if you are sanding it try to not accumulate the dust. some people restore or build boats and put years into them then have to stop and sell the project because they build up an allergy to the chemicals and then any exposure causes a bad reaction. for us weekend warriors its probably less of an issue but the stuff builds up in your body.
I got some metal lathe dogs for my bench they have round pins but you just drop them on top of stuff and they lock it in place instead of trapping the thing between the dog and the vice.. problem is the top of my bench seems to keep disappearing under stuff. I think its down there somewhere
I mounted the woodwork vice in the normal way ( flush) and then put a mechanics vice on separate section of the hinged top so I can swing the mechanics vice down beside and that theoretically makes it so the top is flat without anything sticking up for woodwork. when its hinged up on top then its on a separate section that sits on top of the woodwork bench. I used some offset hinges to do that , worked well. I seem to use the mechanics vice more often but it's nice to have both. A mechanics vice normally sits on top where it's in the way of woodwork projects.. just a space saver really. I keep meaning to drill holes for the dogs I have and to maybe make some dogs for the vice to work the normal way too. The metal dogs look sort of like the end of a C clamp without the screw part so they just drop down and hold without need to tighten a clamp or anything. quite ingenious. they use them for metalwork. . wood ones are usually wood but you can mix the uses a little I guess.
If you wrap the paint can with shop rags it might be a little more comfy
i keep pantyhose in my shop but I just use them to put over the filter of the shop vac to help it so I can clear the dust from the filter more easily, Honest! Phil
