Window Sashes

[PaulJohnson]

Good evening - my first post

After reading hundreds of posts and a great conversation with Jade on the merits of Sarco Type M and a frustrating day spent using DAP33, I purchased a quart of Type M and a bag of whiting.

All I can say is WOW and Thank You!

A week or so back, I spent the afternoon glazing a 12 pane sash. It took half the time. My tooling needs some practice, but overall I think they came out well.

A little about my windows. Our house was built in 1750. At some point over the years the sashes were replaced. The replacements did not fit the original window openings. They were padded out on the sides where needed the bottom. Additionally, aluminum storm sashes were added to the home. My plan is to tackle one window (one room) at a time - restore the sashes, strip the paint/glazing, re-glaze and paint, and finally build storm sashes - 15 windows.

The first window is in process.
- Paint/glazing removed from using a heat gun (lost a few panes)
- Padding removed - to be replaced and wood filler used so there are no seams
- Loose tenons reinforced with dowel pins; all missing wood repaired with wood filler
- Sash primed with an oil based primer
- Glazing complete on one sash

Next steps:
- Wait for glazing to skin over; prime again
- Finish coat oil based (thinking semi-gloss)
- Start designing my storm sashes
- Need to try building a steam box. I have an old Wagner steamer
- I need to keep reading and learning; Maybe attend a workshop to learn the best methods for tooling

I also have sills and trim that need repair. My plan is to use Advance Repair Technologies epoxy. When reviewing their website, I stumbled upon a window glazing product. http://www.advancedrepair.com/glazing_intro.html

Please let me know if you have any experience with the product - good or bad.

Thank you,

PJ

[heartwood]

WELCOME! is this paul from Massachusetts? your town begins with a p?
well aren't you lucky that you have 15 windows! though they are 12 light sash, at least there are not 50 of them...

sarco suggests that you use finish paint directly over the glazing and skip the priming...the reason being that there are solvents in primer that may affect the putty...that said, they have not undertaken research for decades and primers have changed quite a bit in that time...to be on the safe side, I would allow 10-15 days for the putty to set up prior to priming again...that, or allow 5 days for putty then apply 3 coats of finish paint...I use BM oil paints...I was told by many paint stores, and BM itself, that there is no semi gloss--only satin and high gloss...ha, I did some research and found it online...my store indeed ordered it for me...I find that 2 coats of finish over one coat of primer just doesn't quite do it for me...I am now apply 2 coats of each or 1 primer and 3 finish...the glossier the finish the thinner the paint...you may notice you get more runs and drips with the semi gloss than low luster...

advance technologies has been around for a while...it would not be my first choice...john stahl (I believe he started AT) has recently come out with a new restoration epoxy...not sure how well it works...I use epoxies on rare occasions..my choice would be abatron...there's a 2 part consolidant/primer (liquidwood) that has the viscosity of a have maple syrup...it penetrates the punky wood (better when thinned with acetone) and hardens in preparation for the woodepox which is a 2 part putty...it can be molded and shaped pretty easily then planed and/or sanded after it sets up....make the smallest batch you can because the more in the container the more likely it sets up (starts smoking!)...to reduce the curing time, I use an aluminum domed shop light with a clamp and a 60-100 watt incandescent bulb set a few inches away from the epoxy...sets up much quicker...shop around for abatron, prices vary...

that's it for now!
....jade

[PaulJohnson]

Thank you Jade.
Yes it is Paul from Plympton.

I appreciate your continued guidance. Abatron will be added to my research list.

Many thanks.

[GinaC]

Thank you, Paul, this gives me hope for the future restoring my own, much younger windows.

As someone with aluminum storm windows who would like to replace them someday, I am very interested in how you are planning to make replacements! I still have the hooks for the originals on my exterior, but I don't think I want something that I'd have to take down and put back up every year.

Jade, would Sherwin-Williams paint be similar for painting all the parts of the windows? (I'm asking because I was given SW color codes.) All the paint in between my storms and my windows is old and peeling like crazy, and will obviously need to be redone as I go along with the restoration. I use the same paint that I will be using for the exterior trim and I don't need to spray it with Kilz primer first?

[PaulJohnson]

Gina

I have been doing a lot of research reading old tutorials. There is more to read before picking up the tools.

My plan to date is to use Spanish cedar for the storm sashes. Like you I prefer not to take them down each season. My initial thoughts is to make the frames and use the storm sashes and screens as inserts by using turnbuckles. The plan is still in my head and has not made it to paper yet.

I will share my plan as time goes on.

[Gothichome]

Paul, welcome to the District.

[heartwood]

gina you can indeed use Sherwin Williams paint...we all have our favorites...I prefer
oil based paints and, as far as I know, BM is the only large company that still makes it...
it isn't available in all states (latex lobbyists made sure of that!)...

I use BM 024 oil primer--I don't use fast drying products like Bin or Kilz...I believe that
any paint product that is 'fast drying' is of lesser quality...they come from the 'quick and
easy' DIY'er mindset...I have the luxury of planning and having the time for traditional
products to dry/set up...

if you are going down to bare wood, I strongly suggest applying ONE coat of blopentine (50/50
blend of boiled linseed oil/turpentine) to the wood followed by a coat of oil based primer and 2-3
coats of finish paint...this may sound more daunting than anticipated but it is best practice and will
offer a longer lasting paint finish...

spring is the time that many homeowners begin work on their windows--YAYYYYY!!

...jade

[mjt]

Gina - I'm pretty sure you can take the SW color codes and get them in BM paint. (I've done it before...) You need the codes though, not just the color name. SW's "Ivory Tusk" is not the same color as BM's "Ivory Tusk"...

[GibsonGM]

Gina - I'm pretty sure you can take the SW color codes and get them in BM paint. (I've done it before...) You need the codes though, not just the color name. SW's "Ivory Tusk" is not the same color as BM's "Ivory Tusk"...

Yes, absolutely - and vice versa. The BM place will look up "Calico SW0017" and mix it in a Ben Moore for you, if you have that info as MJT said. SW will get ya BM colors. They all buy into a system now where the major companies have their colors in one database, and for a fee the paint place can access it. Pretty handy! Especially when someone gives me something like Glidden colors...and I have them set me up with BM

[KenN]

spring is the time that many homeowners begin work on their windows--YAYYYYY!!

...jade

Good luck to everyone working on their windows this year!

We finally got started on the windows last year, a bit late in the season. We only got 5 individual sashes done. I’m setting a goal of 5 full windows (10 sashes) for this year, we’ll see how far we get.