Point Driver

[MJ1987]

Sooooo late to this party, but my anyway....

When I glaze my sash, I use an old point gun (got on etsy for $45) with stacked points to drive anything in the rails and stiles, white using modern push points in the muntins. I set the point driver really deep and take extreme caution to not shoot the point downward toward the glass. Haven't screwed up yet--knock on wood. Oh yeah...I also trim the push points down with a good pair of nips.

That said, I defer to Jade

[phil]

that looks like a decent quality tool!

[Manalto]

It sure does. Do they make 'em like that anymore? I think not.

I found the same one (plus a little rust) on eBay that's a decent price (so far) and only 5 miles away. The seller is OK with local pick up. Now all I have to do is win the auction.

Thanks, Matt!

[phil]

you probably made a great decision to buy this used.
I found the red devil website. It looks like they have the glazing points and some other related tools listed and they may be good quality in comparison to others, I don't see a point driver listed though. you could bet that no part of a new one would be made of wood. I'm sure you can clean it up. most of it looks to be an aluminum casting.
https://www.reddevil.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=144

[Manalto]

I was outbid on that Red Devil point gun just 5 miles away, so I went the traditional route - a "Buy it Now" on eBay ($30). It's a No. 1. (There's also a No. 2; does anyone know the difference?) Its condition isn't as nice at Matt's and it's missing the hex bolt that anchors the mechanism at the bottom, but it came loaded with points and worked just fine when I tested it. The tool's small size (5 1/2") came as a bit of a surprise after seeing images blown up huge on my monitor, but makes good sense for fitting in the tight spaces of multi-pane sash.

When I glaze my sash, I use an old point gun (got on etsy for $45) with stacked points to drive anything in the rails and stiles, while using modern push points in the muntins.

I've been curious about this since you made the comment. Why two types of points?

[MJ1987]

I was outbid on that Red Devil point gun just 5 miles away, so I went the traditional route - a "Buy it Now" on eBay ($30). It's a No. 1. (There's also a No. 2; does anyone know the difference?) Its condition isn't as nice at Matt's and it's missing the hex bolt that anchors the mechanism at the bottom, but it came loaded with points and worked just fine when I tested it. The tool's small size (5 1/2") came as a bit of a surprise after seeing images blown up huge on my monitor, but makes good sense for fitting in the tight spaces of multi-pane sash.

When I glaze my sash, I use an old point gun (got on etsy for $45) with stacked points to drive anything in the rails and stiles, while using modern push points in the muntins.

I've been curious about this since you made the comment. Why two types of points?

I feel like I have more control and precision with the hand driven points AND (this is the big one) after clipping down the two little nibs on those points, there's less point showing over the glass, which allows me to glaze a skinnier joint. I have two muntins (3-light upper sash) and trying to get it so that no glazing is showing from the inside is tricky if you have to be mindful of a point that sticks out too far from the rabbet.

[phil]

trying to get it so that no glazing is showing from the inside is tricky if you have to be mindful of a point that sticks out too far from the rabbet.

we must be vewwy caweful

[Manalto]

It's an art.

Here's my Red Devil No. 1 with its new repair (missing screw - set me back 22 cents); I don't see the difference, unless No. 1 is steel and No. 2 has an aluminum body.



Reading the forums on glazing, I discovered it's better to have the point slightly off the glass, to allow for expansion. Should I tape a piece of thin cardboard to the bottom of this tool?

[Mick_VT]

I feel like I have more control and precision with the hand driven points AND (this is the big one) after clipping down the two little nibs on those points, there's less point showing over the glass, which allows me to glaze a skinnier joint.

exactly what I do

[heartwood]

james, there's more than one way to slice tofu so you'll see and hear different methods of glass setting...
my way of thinking is that the points hold the glass in so that when set in the opening vertically, the glass won't lean out and push the putty off...I prefer not to have a space between the glass and the point unless it occurs naturally...in other words if, when I set the point, it does not sit tight to the glass, I won't take the time to reset it...the other points will hold the glass...when setting a large pane of glass, I get the glass centered in the opening then place wood shims around the perimeter to keep the glass from sliding down from its own weight...

just one person's observations................