Hello all,
So I've come across one window (the downstairs bathroom, which was an add-on room) that has no weight access pockets, however the window does have weights since there are sash pulley holes.
I realize I have to remove the interior casings to access the weights which I'm not really thrilled about - so I was debating cutting my own weight pockets. I tried to find some ideas online, the best idea I found was here
http://www.idostuff.co.uk/sections/DIY/ ... indow.html
I figure I would still have to remove the casings to make the weight pocket but it would make it easier in the future if the cords needed replacing.
Except I also have never heard of the so called "pocket chisel" and was wondering if something like a fine dovetail saw or something could replace the chisel idea.
The most common idea I've seen is the idea to use something like a Fein multimaster or the like to make the cuts but I don't own one of these and am not really too thrilled about buying one. I'm not a big fan of power tools.
So any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.
Thanks very much,
Windows without weight pockets - cutting pockets?
Re: Windows without weight pockets - cutting pockets?
heartwood wrote:couple of choices...
https://www.facebook.com/steve.quillian ... 590062704/
https://www.facebook.com/steve.quillian ... 676139769/
I get "Sorry, this content isn't available right now" when I click those, I tried several times.
Re: Windows without weight pockets - cutting pockets?
oh darn, not sure how I can get them opened...
you may want to visit 'wood window makeover', steve quillian's website...
good luck...
...jade
you may want to visit 'wood window makeover', steve quillian's website...
good luck...
...jade
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phil
- Has many leather bound books
- Posts: 4616
- Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2015 6:11 pm
- Location: Near Vancouver BC
Re: Windows without weight pockets - cutting pockets?
It opened for me but wanted a log in to facebook, but I didnt' log in as I don't really support facebook.
I'd just pull the casings off, wy is this hard? just pry carefully near the nails. once off it will probably still have the nails in the casing. In stead of trying to hammer them back and pull them, pull them right through the backside so they dont; chip out near the nails. You can fill the holes with putty and nail them back using the same holes. I often use thin nails that I get from breaking then off from strips from air nailers. they are very thin. use plyers to hold them to get started without bending them or I use a little piece of metal rod with a hole just bigger than the nail to guide them until they are mostly in. it stops the thin nails from bending. they hold them well enough and if I pull them again it's not a problem. fix your weights or ropes. I wouldnt' worry about gaining access frequently, just pull the casings again if you have another issue.
mine are all behind the casings. If you wanted to get tricky you could put hinges on the casings but I think its overkill.
I'd just pull the casings off, wy is this hard? just pry carefully near the nails. once off it will probably still have the nails in the casing. In stead of trying to hammer them back and pull them, pull them right through the backside so they dont; chip out near the nails. You can fill the holes with putty and nail them back using the same holes. I often use thin nails that I get from breaking then off from strips from air nailers. they are very thin. use plyers to hold them to get started without bending them or I use a little piece of metal rod with a hole just bigger than the nail to guide them until they are mostly in. it stops the thin nails from bending. they hold them well enough and if I pull them again it's not a problem. fix your weights or ropes. I wouldnt' worry about gaining access frequently, just pull the casings again if you have another issue.
mine are all behind the casings. If you wanted to get tricky you could put hinges on the casings but I think its overkill.
Re: Windows without weight pockets - cutting pockets?
pulling off the trim can lead to damage to the interior plaster and it doesn't solve the problem for the next person who needs to replace the rope...
with a steady hand, use a small circular saw with the blade set just enough to cut through the wood...the length of the cut will be determined by the length of the weight which is determined by the weight of the sash--time for a guesstimate...10-12 inches should be more than enough...after cutting two matching vertical cuts, use a fein multimaster or any of the other similar tools to cut angle cut at the top and bottom...predrill and counter sink a hole for a screw to hold the pocket cover in place...
hope you can open the video as a visual is always helpful...
with a steady hand, use a small circular saw with the blade set just enough to cut through the wood...the length of the cut will be determined by the length of the weight which is determined by the weight of the sash--time for a guesstimate...10-12 inches should be more than enough...after cutting two matching vertical cuts, use a fein multimaster or any of the other similar tools to cut angle cut at the top and bottom...predrill and counter sink a hole for a screw to hold the pocket cover in place...
hope you can open the video as a visual is always helpful...
Re: Windows without weight pockets - cutting pockets?
heartwood wrote:pulling off the trim can lead to damage to the interior plaster and it doesn't solve the problem for the next person who needs to replace the rope...
with a steady hand, use a small circular saw with the blade set just enough to cut through the wood...the length of the cut will be determined by the length of the weight which is determined by the weight of the sash--time for a guesstimate...10-12 inches should be more than enough...after cutting two matching vertical cuts, use a fein multimaster or any of the other similar tools to cut angle cut at the top and bottom...predrill and counter sink a hole for a screw to hold the pocket cover in place...
hope you can open the video as a visual is always helpful...
Thank you. I was worried about the kerf from the saw leaving a gap preventing the piece from fitting back. The window is 46" x 24" so the weights are probably on the smaller side. How do you recommend to cut behind where the parting bead goes? And I cannot view the video at all, it must be set private or for friends only viewing or something.. I went to his website I didn't see any video, the only video I found was from the British guy in the first link I posted.
And yea my thoughts exactly on why I don't like removing trim, and do I have to remove trim in order to make those cuts or is there a way to cut without removing the trim?
And one more odd thing about this window is that there's no dado for the parting bead at the very top - there is a shadow of where one used to be but it would have to be nailed on and only half as deep as a normal parting bead?!
- no dado.jpg (306.75 KiB) Viewed 2429 times
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phil
- Has many leather bound books
- Posts: 4616
- Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2015 6:11 pm
- Location: Near Vancouver BC
Re: Windows without weight pockets - cutting pockets?
I'd just cut any paint or plaster adjacent to the trim and use a thin piece of metal like a cabinet scraper and a thin pry bar to protect the wall. stick the scraper near the casing and against the wall and pry on that instead of the plaster. Instead of a cabinet scraper any thin heavy tin maybe an old carpenters square or what have you.
While cutting a hole in the frame is possible, I think it's kind of a dangerous operation unless you are pretty comfortable with using a circular saw in that manor especially cutting freehand without any sort of saw guide.
Yes there would be saw kerf. The multitools are great but they aren't really the most needed tool for someone who doesn't own too many so I woiuldn't send Vala shopping for that unless he wants to buy a new toy. I respect Jades experience and I'm sure with his experience he's be comfortable doing that and I can picture him comfortably holding the circular saw guard back and going at it.. but I guess I still have to question if this would be wise for Vala who I suspect has a bit less comfort and control with a circular saw than Jade does.
Maybe with a Japan saw he could get more control and a thinner kerf once he cut a little slot to start it, but If it were me I wouldn't cut a hole there, I'd use the access that was intended and just carefully remove the casing, fix the weight replace the casing. I bet the rope isn't going to break again in his lifetime.
the Japan saw cuts on the pull stroke but you need a cut to start it. that might be a row of small holes you make with an electric drill and a small bit. there is always some kerf but these saws make a narrow kerf and don't chip too much. Slower than a circular saw but safer too. easier to follow your line once you are cutting. a keyhole saw is similar and will start with a smaller hole, but they leave a rougher cut. If I was going to do that I wouldn't worry about saving the piece but cut the hole as square as you can, trim it up so you dont; have saw marks and such and then make a new piece of wood to fill the hole, that fits.. If you arent' worried about saving the scrap then you can use a forestner but and cut some 1" holes near the corners of your cutline to start your saw from. All this instead of pulling a casing? it doesn't quite make sense to me.
I hope my different viewpoint isn't insulting to anyone, I just have to question stuff sometimes even from experts.
japan saw
https://www.google.com/search?q=japan+s ... fINUAR8LYM:
forestner bit
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com ... SX355_.jpg
While cutting a hole in the frame is possible, I think it's kind of a dangerous operation unless you are pretty comfortable with using a circular saw in that manor especially cutting freehand without any sort of saw guide.
Yes there would be saw kerf. The multitools are great but they aren't really the most needed tool for someone who doesn't own too many so I woiuldn't send Vala shopping for that unless he wants to buy a new toy. I respect Jades experience and I'm sure with his experience he's be comfortable doing that and I can picture him comfortably holding the circular saw guard back and going at it.. but I guess I still have to question if this would be wise for Vala who I suspect has a bit less comfort and control with a circular saw than Jade does.
Maybe with a Japan saw he could get more control and a thinner kerf once he cut a little slot to start it, but If it were me I wouldn't cut a hole there, I'd use the access that was intended and just carefully remove the casing, fix the weight replace the casing. I bet the rope isn't going to break again in his lifetime.
the Japan saw cuts on the pull stroke but you need a cut to start it. that might be a row of small holes you make with an electric drill and a small bit. there is always some kerf but these saws make a narrow kerf and don't chip too much. Slower than a circular saw but safer too. easier to follow your line once you are cutting. a keyhole saw is similar and will start with a smaller hole, but they leave a rougher cut. If I was going to do that I wouldn't worry about saving the piece but cut the hole as square as you can, trim it up so you dont; have saw marks and such and then make a new piece of wood to fill the hole, that fits.. If you arent' worried about saving the scrap then you can use a forestner but and cut some 1" holes near the corners of your cutline to start your saw from. All this instead of pulling a casing? it doesn't quite make sense to me.
I hope my different viewpoint isn't insulting to anyone, I just have to question stuff sometimes even from experts.
japan saw
https://www.google.com/search?q=japan+s ... fINUAR8LYM:
forestner bit
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com ... SX355_.jpg
Re: Windows without weight pockets - cutting pockets?
phil wrote:he
youre the only one on this board who refers to me as "he" everytime...
Re: Windows without weight pockets - cutting pockets?
really sorry you can't open the videos because they're exactly what you need and it's difficult to talk someone through it without the visuals...
some windows don't have parting beads at the top...instead, they have a wider head casing...since you don't have a dado to accept the top pb, you can nail one in or make a wider casing...the pb is the easier choice....you may want to make the depth of the pb match what is exposed for the side pb's...nail the top one in the center and use the side pb's to hold up either side of the top...make sense?
I would encourage you to call or write to steve and ask if he can email you the video...you can tell him his 'girlfriend' jade sent you!
some windows don't have parting beads at the top...instead, they have a wider head casing...since you don't have a dado to accept the top pb, you can nail one in or make a wider casing...the pb is the easier choice....you may want to make the depth of the pb match what is exposed for the side pb's...nail the top one in the center and use the side pb's to hold up either side of the top...make sense?
I would encourage you to call or write to steve and ask if he can email you the video...you can tell him his 'girlfriend' jade sent you!