What do I need for window hardware?

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Greenwood
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What do I need for window hardware?

Post by Greenwood »

I'm coming close to being done with refinishing my window sashes. Some of the windows I refinished had hardware bits on them, but most didn't. So, I'll have to purchase new. What I'm looking for is advice on what I need, the quality I should look for, and suggestions on where to get it.

My windows are single hung friction fit. I had no idea that's what they were, that's how clueless I am about old windows. But I think single hung friction is the best description.
I think the moving sash on the bottom rail needs a 'finger pull' fixture, for example:
Finger pull.jpg
Finger pull.jpg (10.14 KiB) Viewed 865 times

And then to lock the windows, I think I need something like this for the upper and lower sashes:
Sash lock.jpg
Sash lock.jpg (18.61 KiB) Viewed 865 times

Is this right? I'd like the fixtures to look black and I'd like good quality. Any suggestions on material and where to purchase? Are there any sizes that are standard?

heartwood
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Re: What do I need for window hardware?

Post by heartwood »

good questions...
so everyone else is 'clued' in, a single hung window looks just like a double hung window except the top sash is 'fixed' in place...sometimes the top sash is held in place by a slender lengths of trim (jack) that rest under the top sash and end in a bevel to match the sill...sometimes there will be 'half jacks' that extend from the sill to half way up to the top sash while the sash is held in place by hardware on the jamb...sometimes there are short, may 4-6 inch, blocks of wood screwed or nailed into the jamb holding the sash in place....

typically sash like yours will have a flat meeting rail (where the two sash 'meet') at the top of the bottom sash but a profiled bottom on the top sash...this means there is not a flat space at which to install locking hardware...yours could be an exception where you have a flat area but that is rare...these are your common options: http://kilianhardware.com/frsalo.html http://kilianhardware.com/wistvesalo.html (PLEASE NOTE LOUSY PAINT JOB...DO NOT PAINT JAMB, PARTING BEAD AND STOPS AS A MONOLITH AND DO NOT PAINT THE ROPE OR CHAIN!) http://kilianhardware.com/phelwswinspr.html these are very difficult to install cleanly, better installed during original building of sash as it is best to be able to drill from the interior of the side stile to the outside to minimize blow out...it's difficult to get a drill bit through cleanly and with a straight and level hole...the least expensive way is to cut a 1/4" dowel to about three inches in length and drill 5/16" holes in the jamb every 6 inches or so and one at the top of the bottom sash...place the dowel in the jamb holes to keep the sash open at a desired height or, when closed, at top of the sash to keep it from being opened...you can do that with the brass pin from kilian's rather than drill through the sash...

kilian hardware is an independent store in Philadelphia (in other words, not a big box store) and they carry good quality window hardware...

hope that helps...
....jade

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Manalto
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Re: What do I need for window hardware?

Post by Manalto »

Jumping onto this thread just to ask a simple question. What's the best way to clean paint off of second-hand crescent-type window lock hardware? Is it really by boiling? Thanks!

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Willa
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Re: What do I need for window hardware?

Post by Willa »

I've boiled hardware in a pot that is NOT used for eating anymore - and is stored separately. Perhaps a tsp - tbsp of TSP in several inches of water works for me. Other people have used crock pots on a lower temp with Dawn dish soap. I haven't tried that.

The paint sort of melts off. If areas stay stuck just cook for a longer time.

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Gothichome
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Re: What do I need for window hardware?

Post by Gothichome »

James, I have tried them all, boiling works well but it still leaves stubborn paint bits in the crevices. Tried circa paint stripper, a bit of a waist of time, lots of picking at the crevices one again. Wire brush wheel seems to work the best but one again the crevices become an issue, the wire brush doesn’t always get in there. Now, I boil first and finish off with the wire brush, but I still have to pick a bit in the crevices.

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MJ1987
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Re: What do I need for window hardware?

Post by MJ1987 »

heartwood wrote:good questions...


kilian hardware is an independent store in Philadelphia (in other words, not a big box store) and they carry good quality window hardware...

hope that helps...
....jade


Like Jade said, I used Kilian. They supplied all of my spring bronze weatherstripping, copper-plated nails, and sash lifts. I wanted unlacquered solid brass that would turn brown quickly. They only carried lacquered. I called and they made a special order for me with their supplier. I REALLY like Kilian!

As far as cleaning sash locks and hardware goes, I've always boiled. I'm careful not to over-boil because sometimes the delicate plated finish will somehow boil off with the paint, believe it or not. Again, I use a soft brass toothbrush to polish. I usually finish with wax. I've salvaged a ton of these old locks and keepers and they've--for the most part--all come out worthy of the work I put in :)
Matt


I built a chimney for a comrade old;
I did the service not for hope or hire:
And then I travelled on in winter’s cold,
Yet all the day I glowed before the fire.


-Edwin Markham

phil
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Re: What do I need for window hardware?

Post by phil »

sometimes heat works too. take a part and hold it under the flame of a blowtorch and just burn the paint off. some things like flat metal can buckle from uneven heating but other stuff is fine. you can change the properties of metal if you heat it enough so depends what it is but lots of little hardware can take it. If iron passes the stage where the surface of the metal is changing colors, it will go through stages of yellow brown blue red then cherry red.. you might affect the metallurgy. for example you could heat a spring red hot and affect its springiness. brass and copper will be softened if you heat and quench. usually paint burns at a much lower temp.. something like a heavy gate hinge you can get hot without messing anything up. propane is cheap and sometimes you can save some chemicals that way. its not practical if it's big parts and of course it's an outside job because of the smoke.

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