Window restoration for Manalto

[Manalto]

...'bed' it with putty as you do the other three surfaces...

Good to know. On those two panes I've already restored, I suppose I can mash some putty into the gap. The third was just a glass replacement (with DAP before I knew better) so it can be done correctly during restoration. I've got to remember that the application of putty is reversible, even after time, and not a permanent thing.

Boom, I stand corrected Can you take a pic of this as you do it, James?

I'll be happy to, but it'll be a while until I'm down South again. Maybe the weather will cooperate this December!

[GibsonGM]

It'll wait til then, just curious to see what it looks like!

[phil]

duplicate post - removed by phil

[phil]

Please do correct me if i'm wrong here .. its kind of a question. the way I see it, the sliding parts shouldn't be painted because painted surfaces don't slide well.
now if you were to widen up the gaps to use bronze strips, maybe that would change things? since now the wood slides against the bronze?

I use printing plates which are just aluminum sheet stock. its easy to cut with scissors or if you score it and bend it cuts that way very easily. so what I do is tape a piece of this aluminum sheet stock the same size as the window to the window and as well use care with the heat but it will function as a heat sink to keep heat off the glass. sometimes I just use a 6" wide strip and move it and re-tape it in place as I go.

If trying to free stuff. first I use a scraper and heat gun , get rid of the easy stuff, yes use a knife to cut it too but then also I find sometimes I can use the paint stripper to help "unglue stuff" I can sort of work it around into the gaps with a thin putty knife or thin spatula and at the same time note where I can't drag it between , You might feel nails this way if there are any.

I wanted to add that if you get stuff loose so you can wiggle it, you can sort of sense where it is stuck by it's pivot point, as it may rock a bit but be stuck and where it's stuck will act like a pivot even if it is only slight movement you can detect where it is stuck this way by carefully noting which directions you can wiggle it in. harder to describe in type than visually. this would be natural to someone experienced working on windows. in other words if you can wiggle one corner even if only enough that the movement is barely detectable, but the other corner is won't budge , even a teeny amount, then look to the side that won't move at all. you can probably move a window that is stuck in some directions even if the movement is very slight. the trick is patience and never pry hard or pull too hard on stuff.

to pull the parting beads out of their slots, You may be able to put a pair of vice grip pliers or a wood clamp , use a scrap of leather to protect the wood from your clamp or pliers.
. put the locking pliers or wood clamp on the bead and then you can stick a screwdriver between the frame and the clamp or pliers. you can stick a thin piece of metal between your screwdriver and the frame so you don't damage the wood by prying. In this way you can put considerable force in the direction you want it to move ( out of it's slot) on the strip in order to pull it free from it's slot. otherwise there isn't a lot to pull on with just your fingers.

As with the other little beads. If you own a tablesaw it is probably a whole lot faster to just cut new strips than to "paint strip and restore a bunch of thin sticks". You are not saving much wood unless you like the patina or something. Whatever your prefer of course, is fine. I'd strip sills, sashes, frames, casings etc but these little wood strips, not worth the time as I see it Similar old fir isn't that hard to find.. you can use old growth from bits of flooring or what you have around. It will do fine as long as it it straight fine grained stuff. If you are preserving every bit of patina or if you dont; have access to a saw then maybe you'd see it differently. I personally would find it faster and less fiddly to just cut a few strips to use for the beads than to strip them. the width of the parting beads needs to be accurate as they are a push fit. some of the beads have a bit of a roundover but that is also quick if you have a router or you can even just create the roundover with sanding or with a scraper with the right radius. Back in time they used to use molding planes with specific profiles for things like this. now we use routers.

I have a woodworking tool , it looks like a fork with a handle. I asked my dad what it was as it looked like it was for prying small nails. No.. he corrected me. it is a tool to drag over sharp corners to break the corner so it isn't sharp. I attached a pic of a similar but modern tool for that.