Blopentine on floors?

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Sow's Ear Mal
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Blopentine on floors?

Post by Sow's Ear Mal »

Hey all. My wide, soft white pine floor boards are shedding the paste varnish finish I put on a few years ago. They now look awful. I'm going to sand them down again and plan on a tung oil finish, so I can repair it if necessary later. That stuff ain't cheap though. I was wondering if I should quench the floor with an application of blopentine before the tung oil. I've never used blop. Is it suitable for this use? Thanks, mal

heartwood
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Re: Blopentine on floors?

Post by heartwood »

yup, it's suitable...will it hold up like a hard poly? nope, but it's a dang site prettier...
get the best boiled linseed oil and turpentine you can find and mix it 50/50....apply with a natural bristle brush...you can wait a day or two and apply a second or third coat...when the floor gets a bit worn, no need to sand...just vac and brush...MAKE SURE TO DISPOSE OR OILY RAGS PROPERLY...THEY CAN COMBUST!!!
hope that helps...
....jade

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Gothichome
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Re: Blopentine on floors?

Post by Gothichome »

Only issue I see is the smell, you'd best get use to the smell of turps for a few days though.

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Re: Blopentine on floors?

Post by heartwood »

you're right gothic...some people love the smell, others not so much...
best to apply it on a day where the windows and doors can be open...a fan helps with drying and the smell...
...jade

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Mick_VT
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Re: Blopentine on floors?

Post by Mick_VT »

I know I sound like a broken record, but you might want to take a look at this product if you want an oil finish on the floor: http://www.monocoat.us/ All natural, no VOCs and very quick application, you can walk on it after 24 hours with no tracking or damage and it smells wonderful (pure linseed oil smell)
Mick...

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Sow's Ear Mal
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Re: Blopentine on floors?

Post by Sow's Ear Mal »

Mick_VT wrote:I know I sound like a broken record, but you might want to take a look at this product if you want an oil finish on the floor: http://www.monocoat.us/ All natural, no VOCs and very quick application, you can walk on it after 24 hours with no tracking or damage and it smells wonderful (pure linseed oil smell)


Thanks all. Re the Rubio...Looking in to it. Need Canadian supplier, hopefully near Ottawa. It sounds like the other types of Linseed oil based finishes, but I like the idea of a catalyst to speed the process up some. So many hairy feet walking around here.................

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Re: Blopentine on floors?

Post by heartwood »

this monocoat stuff sounds good...they don't list the 'plant based materials' they use but the msds convinces me that it's not a danger to one's health...
sounds to me like it's worth a try....
....jade

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Re: Blopentine on floors?

Post by Mick_VT »

heartwood wrote:this monocoat stuff sounds good...they don't list the 'plant based materials' they use but the msds convinces me that it's not a danger to one's health...
sounds to me like it's worth a try....
....jade

I have read elsewhere that it is modified linseed oil and is non-toxic
Mick...

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Re: Blopentine on floors?

Post by phil »

I bought some linseed oil on craigslist and now I'm wondering if the stuff will dry. it came in a bucket with no documentation from a guy that said I can add it to paint etc. he said some were buying it to soak gun stocks and things in. Usually I use danish oil. I was just doing some putty color samples and noticed that this stuff wasn't drying overnight so I'm going to use the clear deft Danish oil, then poly. Ill save this questionable oil for the fence or something outdoors and maybe try adding some japan dryers. it did make me realize that while people here are "blopentining" stuff they might all be using different types of linseed oil or canola oil. I'm sure the stuff I have is "boiled" I mean it isn't going stinky like salad oil or something. the odor seems apropriate but it sure doesn't dry like the dainish oil. I still add turps to danish oil but maybe that needs a catchy name like danitine or something ;-)

I did the drum sanding and edging last week. as predicted It exposed quite a few "shiners" so I'm driving them down. it was pretty scratched up and the scrapes went deep into the grain. Ill still see some remnants of that and black staining from water coming through flooring joints.
in this case I think its on the third sanding and if I go more then the top of the groove side will start breaking up so in this case it isn't going to ever be refinished again so I want something tough to protect whats left. 3 or more coats of danish oil and then at least 3 coats of poly applied in one day on top of that.

i only sanded to about 60. Ill either hand scrape from there or maybe Ill get lazy and just rent the big pad sander next to go to about 100 grit. i wont' go finer or it won't absorb as much oil. I thought I'd go finer but on each pass I got more nervous about it going too thin plus it was hot and I got lazy so I stopped and took it back lol ;-)
usually I have gone finer with the drum sander and the edger and then rented the big pad sander to finish up after the putty stage. Ill probably do the same. on one area it was impossible to sand with the grain and I had to run the drum across grain so Ill see what that does so far as tearing the grain goes. it was only 4x8" so I couldn't run the drum sander in the 4 foot direction. the pad sander isnt' nearly as agressive as the drum but it can move in all directions.
I think they have other sanders , some have like 4 or several six inch disks. I bought some of the discs and they will fit my random orbital sanded bit I couldn't find coarse paper for my ROS any other way. the 5 inch are common bit the 6 inch ones always seem pricey. anyway I thin kthat style of machien can run either direction but again not as agressive as the drum sander.

I tried to see if I could put coarse paper on my ROS and use that in place of the edger but it kind of seemed to be tearing the grain too much and I decided the edger is designed for this and I was just making it hard for myself this way.

on previous jobs I have noticed swirly marks from the tracks from the hard steel wheels of the edger. this time I wrapped them with black tape first and then adjusted the hieght of the wheels. I also laid alunimum sheet stock about 8" from the wall and as I used the edger, I ran the wheels on that. it was probably twice the work but I hated seeing those patterns in the finish before.

now I'm on to the putty.
there is a real science to getting the putty to match properly. it has to match the wood when it is finished but of course the wood is naked when I use it. plus the wood will darken with sun and time and probably the putty will a little too. also the boards vary , the heartwood and sapwood. I have to predict whats going to happen on each board and try to color appropriately. If it get it just right the spots where the shiners were will become hard to notice once it is finished. getting really good at this is a big part of the difference between so so and a nice job.. If you can notice the putty it's probably because it isn't the same color of the wood but there are lots of factors at play in hitting the target.

I can treat the floor and remove a lot of the black marks with wood bleach but I'm thinking I might just leave the darker stains be and if I really dont' like it I can darken the floor a bit more in finishing coats to help hide it. I'm not sure how successful I can be with spot treating the stains with wood bleach. I think it might have to be the whole floor or nothing or I might see a division where it was used and where it wasn't.

I used a non stinky product on my outside stairs. I'd say it is doing well in the weather. I dont' think it has a really hard finish that protects the floor but it's working well otherwise. on the stairs I'm not concerned of surface wear like an interior floor, only peeling and lasting. I don't know how well re-coating will go. Ill try. I think this might be comparable to the stuff mick tried ? its a coating but it doesn't have much thickness in itself. mainly it's pigments and not exactly what you'd call a "varnish" or protective layer. at least not a "hard shell"
I'd say that Bohme is performing well but this is an outdoor product. its a contender in comparison to the more stinky and well liked sikkens deck coatings. I also noticed that I had some of the Bohme stuff in a plastic tub with loose fitting lid and it sat there two years and still didn't dry. any of the oil based products would have gelled up and dried long ago. So it's got some unusual properties for sure. my stairs see a lot of rain and some snow here in Vancouver so it was a good test for that and I'd say I'm happy with it.

maybe I'm drawing parallels between the bohme stuff and what mick used but without really knowing what is in the stuff. how well it will last with stuff like heavy furniture being dragged about, dog claws etc might be a factor. he used it in the dining room which shouldn't see lots of hard wear except chairs and he might be able to use a rug or pads but I'm doing a living room that I know will see a certain amount of scuffs and it's an entrance cow trail from the front of the house so it'll see lots of rocks in shoes etc.

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... 6g&cad=rja

Phil

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