Question on storm windows

[AndyMichigan]

This is my first post here and look forward to learning and sharing with others . . . .

We moved to Michigan last year and bought a home built in 1843. I've been down the restoration road before but this time we are trying to keep to period with the restoration and furnishings (kids no longer at home helps).

Have question on storm windows. The house has all of the original windows - wavy, bubbled glass and all. The windows have been painted many times over the years and it would really be a challenge to get most of them to open again. A few do but the vast majority do not. I removed the storm windows to re glaze and paint them and have a question about reinstalling them. Since the windows do not open, I do not plan on taking the storms back out. Is there a problem with putting caulk around them when I put them back in place so that I can then paint the window frame and caulk to make it look like they are one piece? Will this be a problem with swelling / shrinkage of the wood on the window frame / storm window?

Thanks in advance

[phil]

if they are painted in place you can get the paint off and get them to move by removing the strips inside and then you can work the lower sash free. Im doing that to mine now.

you could choose to leave the storms in place. My concern with making things too permanent there would be that if you do see condensation between then you could get the storm open to dry and if you calk it in then you still can but would the calk and paint make it more difficult?

someone here did mention a temporary calk that they were using to seal stuff just for winter but I'm not familiar with that product and doubt you'd want to paint it. you basicly dont' want to create a damp terrarium like atmosphere between the windows. maybe some of that depends on local climate, the overhang, etc. I think some storms have a little hole to let the space breathe somewhat so you could consider a little hole if you seal it ? does that defeat the purpose of the calk? a single 1/8" hole would probably be enough of a vent but if you seal it up too tight it might not be the best option. I guess you could always drill a hole if you want one.

[Gothichome]

Andy, welcome to the district. In my view caulking the windows tight is a very bad decision. What will happen is moisture will condense and collect on the inside of the storm, especially in winter, with no air flow it will never evaporate, it will just flow into your frame and start rotting the wood. Not only of the storm, but the sash, and possibly the sill if it's wood.
Post some pics and tell us a good story of your new 'old' home. We are fond of pics here in the District.

[Gothichome]

Phil, Andy, the temporary stuff is called draft seal. Lay it down like caulking, it just lifts off when you want it gone. I have used for several years on our front doors in the winter months.

[phil]

im also thinking of bugs getting between, dying in there.. it's nice to be able to clean at least once in a while.. the little hole I mentioned might invite insects that like to find little holes in the outside of houses to make little nests and things as well. .

[Jeepnstein]

Don't do it. Trust me on this one. Weather stripping will do fine. You will hate yourself for a while if you caulk them. Been there. Never again.

[GibsonGM]

As everyone said - if you make a "sealed" area between sash and storm, you'll end up with a terrarium. A very wet area, with water and frost in it, and then peeled paint, mildew/mold, and rotted wood. Including the sills. We all tend to think the same you are are at first; that tighter is better! Nope.

The old timers used a layer of felt as a 'gasket' around their wood storms, and this allowed some breathing. Some even put HOLES in them (you often see them at the bottom of the storm), 1/2" dia. or even larger.

Look at it this way - the storm is just to keep the sashes from damage in high wind, and to cut the wind to lessen drafts thru the sashes. Not to insulate or anything. Some air movement from that center area to outside is critical.

The air sealing should be on the interior side of the window...the temp. stuff goes on the inside of the sashes.

If you make interior storm panels, it's a moot point - you'll have a great seal INSIDE, be totally draft free and get no condensation, no 'stuff' to put on your sashes...

Oh - the other thing and making 'em move again...possible fire exit - you never know. I keep a bat handy in case I need to smash out a window! (Because my windows are single-hung, top doesn't move, and my storms have stays holding them closed)

[rodpaine]

Our 1927 house modeled after two Sears craftsman home plans, has windows that were removed from a schoolhouse in 1925, that was built in 1860 in PA. These windows were stored for future use by carpenters that later installed them in our house in 1927. Unfortunately sometime in the early 1960's aluminum storm windows were installed by idiots who created a lot of problems in the process, not the least being the removal of the original exterior window shutters and discarding them.

After a lot of research we decided on interior thermal windows, which have since served us very well as I have documented here at http://bit.ly/1jlOuep. I hope this input helps.
-Rod

[GibsonGM]

After a lot of research we decided on interior thermal windows, which have since served us very well as I have documented here at http://bit.ly/1jlOuep. I hope this input helps.
-Rod

They look very nice Rod, and I'm sure work great!

Here is an option for anyone who'd like to DIY and save quite a bit: http://historichomeworks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=193

Was the 'glazing' used a caulk-type thing?? Every other part of that restoration looks comprehensive, very well done and detailed, and they should last ages...but it wasn't regular glazing?

[AlsatianND]

Caulking is overkill and not worth your time or money. This chart from an English study shows the value of different refurbishment methods.




The study is here and the chart is on page 20: https://content.historicengland.org.uk/images-books/publications/thermal-performance-traditional-windows/thermal-performance-traditional-windows.pdf/


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