Window Help Needed

[Willa]

I can't download the pics but here are some different types of casement stays (news to me that is what they are called) and latches:

https://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/casement-window-stays

https://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/casement-window-latch

[Willa]

Also - I forget what the stuff is called - but it is a US product. It is a two part epoxy wood filler type stuff. You knead the two parts together(wearing gloves) but it can be shaped and molded, then easily sanded when hardened. I think it has a pretty short working time - like 20 minutes. It comes in a package that is sort of like two tubes, side by side. It is a putty or plasticine type texture - not liquid.

I used some to repair a minor amount of wood rot on a window. I purchased it from Lee Valley - a Canadian company that carries many fine tools, products, etc. that might be common in the US but not otherwise distributed here.

The stuff smells awful when mixed - like old fashioned lye based hair straightener or perm solution - but it worked as promised and has held strong through two winters on an exterior surface.

[phil]

epoxy wood filler often comes in a stick. You just cut off what you need and knead it and it's the consistency of plasticene. there is another you might see called PC woody, comes in natural or white and the package looks like two film cans stuck together. so you mix equal portions. the 5 minute epoxy is common and you can find different brands. the ones that look like a double syringe are handy.
Ive been making my own with epoxy and wood dust. I just take a scoop from under my tablesaw and screen out the big chunks then mix that with one part of the epoxy , then combine the other to start the reaction off. If you are repairing punky wood its best if you get the stuff to penetrate. you can even drill little holes or you can vacuum bag stuff to suck it right in. that pulls the air out and the epoxy penetrates as it is the only thing in the bag to replace the air with.
one problem with epoxy, its non porous so if you coat with other stuff like stains you can have issues where it stands out because it wont' suck stuff into the grain like wood.
for big holes like if a knot falls out you cna drive screws in at an angle so the heads end up situated within the patch then fill it , that way the screws stop the patch from ever falling out and they are trapped and buried. likewise if you drill holes it forms like little spikes where the holes are. ive tried using metal dowel that I sand rough and dip in epoxy then drive into pre drilled holes. usually you dont want metal that will rust but the epoxy sort of encapsulates the metal and prevents the discoloration caused by iron and wood. You can use wood dowels or brass or other stuff with the same ideas. for example you can drill a hole through two parts and stick in a dowel that is then buried and forgotten within to add strength.
lee valley has beautiful catalogues for mail order and some specialty products for wood finishing. some beautiful and expensive hand planes and tools. but I like Mohawk, they have more furniture finishing stuff and better pricing and I think they have more exposure in the US. you might compare both.

wood absorbs and gives off moisture , expands and contracts as it does. epoxy does not so you can create problems if water collects between the wood and epoxy. the wood shifts but the epooxy is dimensionally stable. as an example if the bottom of a sash is rotten you might do better to slice off 1/4" then add a 1/4" thick strip to make up the regular dimension and just use a similar wood instead of slathering it with epoxy which may chunk out later when water gets involved. you might use epoxy as a waterproof glue, its good at filing gaps and maintains strength particularly where parts aren't a perfect fit. It can bridge some gap and still have strength unlike wood glue. the epoxy might break down with UV but you can mix colors into the stuff as well if you like. powdered pigments can be blended into it.
for punky wood you might find the liquid penetrates better but the plasticine like stuff is easy to shape before it cures. bondo works too but that is a polyester resin, like fiberglass and there is a difference between epoxy and polyester resin. bondo is more like a filler and epoxy is more like glue. the epoxy is more flexible. that said there are hundreds of formulations and secret recipes and product names.
If you want lots try a fiberglass shop they have a lot of products and I dare to say a lot of whats on the market is simply repackaged small quantities. price comes down with quantity once you aren't buying little bubble packs of consumer level stuff at the box stores.

[mjt]

Also - I forget what the stuff is called - but it is a US product. It is a two part epoxy wood filler type stuff. You knead the two parts together(wearing gloves) but it can be shaped and molded, then easily sanded when hardened. I think it has a pretty short working time - like 20 minutes. It comes in a package that is sort of like two tubes, side by side. It is a putty or plasticine type texture - not liquid.

I've used Abatron's WoodEpox with good results in the past. It is much lighter per unit of volume than plasticine.

[Willa]

I think the product I used was Quickwood Epoxy putty:

https://www.amazon.com/QuikWood-Repair-Epoxy-Putty-Quickwood/dp/B0755HF9S5/ref=sr_1_2?crid=26UB3L56JT0SU&keywords=quickwood+putty&qid=1561485702&s=gateway&sprefix=quickwood+putty%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-2

It's a small quantity so not for large surface area repairs but good for being able to pack into a rotted out window corner.

[GibsonGM]

1) Coming to the party late, without info. You need to ABATE the place? As in remove the lead paint from under any newer non-lead based paint? Why? Sorry, I am missing something apparently. If ABATE is what you need, you need to hire a licensed company to do it. If this is because someone has a health problem WRT lead paint, call a pro. DIY cannot result in 'lead free', no way. Not legally or morally.

2) you cannot do it yourself and get 'totally clean' results. In the effort - pulling old wood off, sanding, trying to 'clean up friction surfaces', you are removing and turning more LBP into harmful dust than 50 years of daily opening and closing of window friction surfaces. If you want to DIY and be TOTALLY CLEAN, get the proper training.

3) I'd close up the windows and prep them & casing as much as possible from outside if it were my house. 4mil plastic sheeting on the ground (10' in all directions) under them to catch dust/debris. Wear a lead paint 'paper respirator' & tyvek suit. NO power tools/power sanders! Damp-wipe when done prepping, let dry. Prime, paint, then reglaze the windows, all done. Roll the plastic, tape up (while still wearing respirator), dispose of. Sounds hard, isn't. Wash hands, take shower, don't eat til you do. Just what I would do...

If you have vinyl put in, the people that come do it will (90% bet here) not be certified and will cause more dust to enter your home than 100 yrs of friction surface wear. Including you if you DIY vinyl ALL window replacement or lead based paint disturbance in the USA must be done under the EPA RRP program, except if you are the home owner. 20 yrs, you can do it all over again when the vinyl degrades. Old houses have old windows, embrace the LBP

[heartwood]

living in a house with paint that contains lead or living next to a field
that is sprayed with round-up, i'd choose the paint...

until 1978, gasoline contained lead and the emission standards for vehicles weren't nearly as
stringent as they are now...we all breathed in lead fumes for decades and didn't drop like
flies...

use common sense when working around lead dust...make sure your mask or respirator is
rated as P100 or N100...most of the masks you find in hardware stores are rated P95 or N95...
you can use a spray bottle with water to dampen the surface prior to scraping to keep the
dust to a minimum...a HEPA vac is expensive...the filter will catch very small particles of
dust--and I mean very tiny...i'm not sure a shop vac with a filter and bag is all that much
less efficient and one can be purchased for less than $100... https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/4-gallon-wet-dry-vac

this scraper can be attached to a vac to minimize dust...the blade is super sharp and stays sharp and
can be sharpened... http://oldewindowrestorer.com/proscraper.html

I don't understand why the 'authorities' are demanding that you remove all the lead...the US
government knew that lead was an unhealthy element (just like vinyl, cadmium, mercury, etc) but allowed
it's use for many decades...now they want us to be responsible for the mess they allowed? call me a
cynic cause I am!

this doesn't need to be so difficult....
....jade

[Willa]

1) Coming to the party late, without info. You need to ABATE the place? As in remove the lead paint from under any newer non-lead based paint? Why? Sorry, I am missing something apparently. If ABATE is what you need, you need to hire a licensed company to do it. If this is because someone has a health problem WRT lead paint, call a pro. DIY cannot result in 'lead free', no way. Not legally or morally.

Dude, whoa !

You've missed the backstory here, about how Corsetiere was hounded by the city, who started posting "orders to vacate" notices on her front door - based on reports from several years prior about lead paint being detected in her house. Her house BEFORE it was her house, and in fact went through two separate owners, neither of whom disclosed the lead abatement order. When her house was a cruddy rooming house, there was allegedly a child living there, who tested positive for higher than average levels of lead. To further complicate things, the City of Columbus does not have any way for a prospective buyer to search the city records for something like a lead abatement order. There was a thread (now deleted) about how intrusive and downright abusive the city had been with regards to this, including sending social workers numerous times, who insisted there was a child at this address - despite Corsetiere having owned and occupied this address for a couple of years - childfree.

Corsetiere took an intensive course on lead abatement, and is certainly qualified to contend with this issue in a thorough and competent manner. She passed her first inspection for lead abatement in the property with flying colors, after she met the city's first deadline. This was after hundreds of hours of hard work and expenses.

Of course she is following all the guidelines for abatement, handling, containment disposal.

[Corsetière]

What lovely hardware; the catches are embellished under all that paint. I don't have any advice beyond please don't replace them with vinyl.

Thanks, I feel the same way. I really do like the hardware. I spent a day up there working on it and I think I can can salvage it. I think my money would be better spent paying a carpenter to build 3 window frames than buying vinyl windows.

[Corsetière]

Also - I forget what the stuff is called - but it is a US product. It is a two part epoxy wood filler type stuff. You knead the two parts together(wearing gloves) but it can be shaped and molded, then easily sanded when hardened. I think it has a pretty short working time - like 20 minutes. It comes in a package that is sort of like two tubes, side by side. It is a putty or plasticine type texture - not liquid.

I've used Abatron's WoodEpox with good results in the past. It is much lighter per unit of volume than plasticine.

Yes, I have used Abatron's Wood Epox extensively on my front porch and it is great stuff. Yeah its's exactly what I was thinking of using on the window frames.