In an old house chances are the floors have already been sanded down once or twice. If the flooring itself is in decent shape, it makes sense to just remove the old finish. In the Old House Journal back in the late 1970's a method of doing this was put forward, and I've done it to too many floors. I'm finishing up this latest room do-over with the floor being the last on the list.
This photo shows the floor with a dark, matted old finish.
This floor is old 1/4 sawn pine. It is old growth as the grain is very narrow and tight.
Paint stripper is liberally applied to an area. I usually go in sections of 10 boards as it is easy to reach over. For what it is worth, I use Strypeeze Orange Semi Paste remover. It is the same stuff I have used for 50 years stripping paint. It is "old school" with all the fancy stuff out now, but it works for me.
The first coat is scraped away. Don't be stingy on the stripper, let it do the work for you! Apply another coat and scrape that away. I use a wide drywall tool to scoop the sludge into plastic bags.
By the third stripper application, most of the old finish has been removed. This third application is removed with coarse steel wool. The secret here is to sprinkle sawdust upon the wet stripper before "steel wooling" it off. The sawdust soaks up the excess stripper and makes the steel wool go much further.
With the steel wool process I work on two boards at a time.
This is an idea of the initial removal.
The end result will show some the wear and tear from 90+ years. But, there has not been any wood removed and the patina is preserved. The uneven colours from sun and some stains are to be expected. Hope to have this stripping finished up in a week so. I'm just putting this forward as an alternative to sanding down an old floor. It has worked for me for decades. Will post pictures of the finished project. Now to get back to finish up this first area.
Refinishing a Floor
- Gothichome
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Re: Refinishing a Floor
Jamie, looks good. I can see the advantage in this technique if all your floor needs is a good refresh. What do you use the neutralize the stripper, and how do you handle any of the goo that gets between the boards. As I see this, your left with a floor striped of any shellac,wax etc. And the stain intact. Like the idea of maintaining the patina.
Re: Refinishing a Floor
I use just a mineral spirits, or lacquer thinner as a final wipe down. I don't have a problem with residue with the Original Strypeeze formula, which is why I still use it after trying many other brands. The steel wool gets up the goo from between the boards.. but then any floor I've done this to, the boards did not have major gaps. When I first did this refinishing method on my old house in Western New York, the floors were very smooth and I finished them all with an oil finish with great results. I would wax and buff those floors every spring and they would just glow. I was so proud of those floors.
The floors in my current Alabama house were never sanded with a real fine grit sandpaper the last time they were done. The surface is not smooth enough to give good results with an oil finish. I know it is against the purist grain, but for practicality I use a polyurethane coating.
Here is a shot of the first area to be done. If you are really ambitious, you can work from a center area and apply stripper on both sides. I'm in no rush so I take my time. A set of gel knee pads are a must for this kind of job. Don't skimp, get the good ones. Your knees will thank you!
The floors in my current Alabama house were never sanded with a real fine grit sandpaper the last time they were done. The surface is not smooth enough to give good results with an oil finish. I know it is against the purist grain, but for practicality I use a polyurethane coating.
Here is a shot of the first area to be done. If you are really ambitious, you can work from a center area and apply stripper on both sides. I'm in no rush so I take my time. A set of gel knee pads are a must for this kind of job. Don't skimp, get the good ones. Your knees will thank you!
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Re: Refinishing a Floor
it's looking great ! I wouldn't feel ad about using poly, it will make the floors last longer and as said you dont' have a lot of thickness. It'll look fine.
Phil
Phil
Re: Refinishing a Floor
The second coat of finish was applied to the floor yesterday morning. I'm pretty pleased with the results. This picture was taken at 5:00 a.m. which is showing the floor darker than it is in real time.
I have been messing with old houses for too long; close to 40 years now. The last similar project I tackled was back in 2006. This current "mushroom project" has driven home to me how things I once took for granted are now an aggravation at best. Just getting the proper wallpaper paste involved a special order through Home Depot for a gallon of the "low moisture clay based" for the digitally printed "archival water based ink" wallpaper now in use from Bradbury & Bradbury. The common wheat based wallpaper paste for unpasted paper, once a staple at home improvement stores, had to be ordered through Amazon.
A pad to apply the finish was unobtainable locally or online. The poly was applied with a roller and then smoothed with a brush.
The house has been torn up for months, another week or two for the floor finish to cure will not make that much difference. Will add some final pictures when the room is back in order.
I have been messing with old houses for too long; close to 40 years now. The last similar project I tackled was back in 2006. This current "mushroom project" has driven home to me how things I once took for granted are now an aggravation at best. Just getting the proper wallpaper paste involved a special order through Home Depot for a gallon of the "low moisture clay based" for the digitally printed "archival water based ink" wallpaper now in use from Bradbury & Bradbury. The common wheat based wallpaper paste for unpasted paper, once a staple at home improvement stores, had to be ordered through Amazon.
A pad to apply the finish was unobtainable locally or online. The poly was applied with a roller and then smoothed with a brush.
The house has been torn up for months, another week or two for the floor finish to cure will not make that much difference. Will add some final pictures when the room is back in order.
- Gothichome
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Re: Refinishing a Floor
B&B paper, thought I recognized it. William Morris Branberry rose. Was not aware that they are now lazer printing some of thier papers. That's cheating, for the money they want for the paper I would want blocked or at least impact printed paper.
- Casey
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Re: Refinishing a Floor
Poly guarantees that the next time the floor is refinished it will have to be sanded. Sanding floors at any point is destructive of historic fabric. You just moved the point into the future; Use a finish that can be renewed or removed without sanding, like Waterlox or shellac.
Casey
Casey
The artist formerly known as Sombreuil
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Re: Refinishing a Floor
I researched the snot out of floor finishes before I went with organic linseed oil and beeswax polish. It's not for everyone, but I'm happy with the result. I personally loathe polyurethane, but I can see why you would choose it. Your floor looks lovely!
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Re: Refinishing a Floor
Casey wrote:Poly guarantees that the next time the floor is refinished it will have to be sanded. Sanding floors at any point is destructive of historic fabric. You just moved the point into the future; Use a finish that can be renewed or removed without sanding, like Waterlox or shellac.
Casey
Actually you can just scuff sand and re-coat oil based poly.
The poly can't be easily removed because it won't re-dissolve with it's original solvent, because of the cross linking technology that makes it so durable. If you re-coat often you will eventually get a build-up of finish and really the only way to go back to square one is full sanding.
poly is much tougher so it doesn't usually need to be refinished or touched at all for quite a number of years. Each finish has it's pro's and cons. I don't hold shares in any of them
Phil