I know I've seen Jade talk about using either the V shaped spring bronze or the spring bronze with her preferring the V shaped springe bronze that are attached to the side jambs of the window frame. Another company I've recently found out about is
http://www.accurateweatherstrip.com/index.html
video showing installation:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELsImfavqF0
The nice thing about this method is it addresses all of the meeting points of the windows although I'm not a fan of the look on the sill plate when the window is raised.
I've used conservation technology products to weatherstrip my interior doors and was thinking of using their silicone bulb product along the top and bottom rail and the meeting rail to tighten up those entry points.
http://www.conservationtechnology.com/b ... ments.html
Does anyone else have any suggestions on other methods?
One more thing not related to weathersealing...Does anyone BLOP the jambs and parting strips of their windows?
How is everyone weatherstripping their windows?
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Re: How is everyone weatherstripping their windows?
Maxhall, I can’t help with your weather stripping question, I haven’t weather stripped any of our windows, but I blot every thing I sand from the brick mold to the inner sills and every thin in between.
Re: How is everyone weatherstripping their windows?
quite an informative video for interlocking weather strip...it's an excellent product
and does its job well for a long period of time...when I find it on sash that I will be
removing for restoration, I reuse it...
a couple of things I take issue with...there's a lot of labor involved with interlocking...
it appears that this guy has a van set up for this kind of work, there's another considerable
expense...it takes me approximately one half hour to install 'v' bronze and a silicone bulb
at the meeting rail...I would estimate it takes 2 or 3 times that for interlocking...
my experience with the type of meeting rail ws in the video is that it always get paint drips
and dust/debris in the 'U' shaped portion...this becomes and issue with the sash closing properly...
and...if I had to remove 4 nails from each side of the sash to free the rope, I would not be happy!!
if you have the time to do this work yourself, it's a great option...most clients are budget conscious and may not go for the interlocking due to the labor and the additional cost of the product over spring bronze...
accurate metal is no longer in business unfortunately... www.kilianhardware.com carries it...
......jade
and does its job well for a long period of time...when I find it on sash that I will be
removing for restoration, I reuse it...
a couple of things I take issue with...there's a lot of labor involved with interlocking...
it appears that this guy has a van set up for this kind of work, there's another considerable
expense...it takes me approximately one half hour to install 'v' bronze and a silicone bulb
at the meeting rail...I would estimate it takes 2 or 3 times that for interlocking...
my experience with the type of meeting rail ws in the video is that it always get paint drips
and dust/debris in the 'U' shaped portion...this becomes and issue with the sash closing properly...
and...if I had to remove 4 nails from each side of the sash to free the rope, I would not be happy!!
if you have the time to do this work yourself, it's a great option...most clients are budget conscious and may not go for the interlocking due to the labor and the additional cost of the product over spring bronze...
accurate metal is no longer in business unfortunately... www.kilianhardware.com carries it...
......jade
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Re: How is everyone weatherstripping their windows?
if the wood is sucking the stuff up let it. If you are building a finish overtop the wood it might cause some stickiness, you can use wax to help lower the friction once you are past the point of needing more coats. rub a candle on there, helps of drawer guides too.
I wouldn't use it for windows because of originality but I have some tape that is made of black teflon. Its maybe double the thickness of black tape with sticky backing. that stuff really lowers the friction but it needs a smooth surface to bond properly. works well between two sliding metal surfaces, especially aluminum on aluminum which sort of hooks together.
I wouldn't use it for windows because of originality but I have some tape that is made of black teflon. Its maybe double the thickness of black tape with sticky backing. that stuff really lowers the friction but it needs a smooth surface to bond properly. works well between two sliding metal surfaces, especially aluminum on aluminum which sort of hooks together.