Survey: Should I paint the bricks around my stove insert?

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GinaC
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Survey: Should I paint the bricks around my stove insert?

Post by GinaC »

Yesterday the guys came to replace a piece of the shroud that had been slightly damanged in transport, and while they were here, I had them try to center the stove in the brick. It turns out they can't, because the brick doesn't line up with the hearth inside, and there isn't enough room for the inside liner to scoot it over.

I plan to keep this slate veneer, which I think is original, and patch the grout where it needs it. I'm also planning on keeping the floor bricks the way they are.

My question is, would you paint the bricks around the top and sides of the insert the same color as the grout? I'm thinking this would make them blend in and make the crookedness less noticeable.

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Re: Survey: Should I paint the bricks around my stove insert?

Post by phil »

my choice would not be to paint it. I'd resize the insert to cover it if the brick bugged me, or just fill any gaps and call it a day. If you wanted you could do a three sided border, a band of metal , sort of like a molding, but metal. maybe some brass that could tie in with some fire tools or similar? like a picture frame sort of.

If that thing has an adjustable draft I'd open it up let it burn freely if you can, choking it back makes a lot of creosote so you have to clean the chimney more if you do that. Im assuming it is still a wood burner..
I keep wanting to make an old looking set of bellows. I dont see antique ones too often.

If it helps it looks lots better than mine ! I took all the tile off. Ive got some green granite pieces that could cover all the ugly brick. mine is faced with ugly cement type bricks to make it larger. Ill leave that alone. I have a bunch of brass pieces and was thinking of doing a permanently installed surround that could incorporate the screen. I dont have the glass doors. I have some bronze mesh but I'm not sure it's appropriate, rather than a mesh type screen it is sort of made up of more loops because it was from a paper mill, the mesh the paper is made on. Its neat stuff but might be too closed to see the fire right. it would definitely stop sparks. It wont open like drapes though , might need to swing open or something. I guess the advantage of the doors is you can walk away and feel safer about the sparks jumping out. you can make it burn a long time with the draft closed to a small gap but I would refrain from that. I like watching the flames, it is sort of soothing ;-) occasionally I vacuum. Its rare but I do , then I forget and point the exhaust toward the fireplace and by the time I look up I have soot all over the room ;-) Maybe I'm subconsciously looking for a way out of vacuuming

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GinaC
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Re: Survey: Should I paint the bricks around my stove insert?

Post by GinaC »

Phil, the choices were this (small) shroud or one that was humungous. I can't change the size of it. Blaze King is the Ferrari of wood stoves and it was quite an investment for me, so I really don't want to mess with any part of it. It's a catalytic stove, so the creosote on the front glass is normal, and it comes and goes depending on its cycle in the burning of the load. I've gotten 10 hour burn times from this baby!

Adding brass molding around the shroud is something I hadn't thought of, but I don't think that would go with my decor. I already have a lot of gold-colored items in the room and I'd like to keep the stove area dark and play up the blue in the slate.
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Re: Survey: Should I paint the bricks around my stove insert?

Post by phil »

on newer cars ( after about 1988 or so they put catalitic converters. Inside them it is like a honeycomb of I think porcelain covered with a thin coating of platinum. since platinum is very expensive the catalytic convertors are too. many thieves steal them and they can sell for like 500 bucks or so for the precious metal content.

I think they need to get hot first but then the platinum basically causes some of the unburnt fuel that would be exhausted to burn inside the catalitic converter. It looks like a muffler. the platinum doesn't burn up bu thtis is a catalytic reaction , the presence of the platinum is part of the reaction causing the soot to burn up so it doesnt' come out the tailpipe for emissions reasons. It wont help the car in any way it just wastes the heat in that case. new cars have sensors so you will get a warning light if it malfunctions.

So by the use of the term, i think they are reflecting the use of this technology. How well that works I can't say. Is it creative advertising without a reasonable basis? , I don't know enough to determine that. It sounds really great.

I do know that a long burn period is possible but then the wood isn't really burning the same way, it is sort of smoldering rather than being a hot flame and that unburned smoke forms as creosote. a hot fire like if you have hardwood that is dry and open so it gets lots of air around it is a more efficient burn, less smoke. You can see in a normal fireplace that sometimes as you say with the glass, it will smoke up the firebox and then when you have a good hot fire it will clean the brick, especially right behind the fire. the fire is burning the soot in the firebox, but the stuff stuck up in the chimney never gets a chance to burn up because it isn't hot enough, so it collects there.

my experience were as a kid, My dad made a heater he had made with forced air and a stove about 2'x2' x 5 feet tall. we'd load it with wood and if the draft was a hole about 1/4 x 1 inch that would allow it to burn better , if it was choked too much our chimney plugged up then in the cold of winter my dad would be on top of a ladder trying to drop steel bars and things down on a rope in an effort to poke a hole through so we could get the house warm again and on a cold winter day that becomes somewhat of an emergency before pipes freeze and stuff. after some of that we learned not to close the draft too much. Dad made a mark on the draft and said never close it more than this.. We had electricity so we did have the ability to use that but we didn't heat with electricity for the most part. the difference in the opening meant that he had to set an alarm and get up and reload it rather than choking it back to make it burn all night. we had winters around - 40 so it was cold out sometimes, not always that cold. after a few experiences like this he would keep a wheelbarrow of cut wood inside ready to load at 3 AM sometimes it meant re-lighting the fire.

I'd just keep an eye on the buildup up above the fireplace in the chimney. Hopefully it works well wiht this technology and this isn't an issue for you. If that plate of steel is the wrong size a new one might be fabricated to the size you like fairly easily and you can paint it with high temp paint like for a barbecue. I like brass and copper but I hate fake brass, What looks good for your decor is a personal thing. If you want to cut fairly heavy steel you might find an old highway sign ,that stuff is fairly thick, or 1/16th steel plate. You can get away with thinner stuff. You can cut it with a zip disc on an angle grinder but you have to be careful because the discs can shatter especially if you twist the tool during the cut. so if you have never used one I'd be considerate about safety. I dont think you want to do that but what I'm saying is this is possible. If it's just flat that's not hard to do, bending it is something else. I though perhaps your solution could be to remove that plate and cut one the size you want to cover the gap you were concerned of. You dont have to steal a highway sign of course ;-) but sometimes people have stuff like that around from some one that was changed, You can buy 1/16" steel plate in 4x 8 sheets or cut to size at higher expense from the metal supermarkets. Its easy for any steel fab or place that does welding etc. If you wanted that I'd make a cardboard template or a drawing with dimensions. Metal supermarkets could provide you the piece cut to size if it is square. a metal shear can cut that stuff up to about 1/2" thick no problem so they would cut the square shape and provide it that way. If you buy a lot of steel there are cheaper sources, they deal with small orders but you buy what you need and not more. a shear will not usually cut part way through or do irregular shapes. for a one off I'd cut the outside dimension on a shear then use a zip disk to cut the shape then file the edges to remove sharp edges, then paint it.
If you want bent edges, thats where a different machine is used, a brake press will do bends and shapes, like if you want the edges bent over or something like that.

If you wanted you could make up a cardboard template and take that to a place that does steel fab. You'll find custom shops that do these things if you seek them out.

you could of course cover any edges with black metal strips but I thought if it were just one piece that might be what you want. the problem for them is the installers are just providing parts they didn't want to do the custom metalwork for you so they just offered a couple of choices from parts they can order and probably keep in stock.

an option to flat black might be flat black crinkle paint, it goes on normal but then you warm it up and it wrinkles up sort of looks like a thick skinned orange, not smooth but a consistent wrinkled pattern. In some situations it leaves a nice professional effect and that's cheap to do. you can bake it to get a more consistent pattern but it might be too big for your oven. when you warm up the wrinkle paint the pattern appears. you'll find it in auto places. any sort of engine paint is probably ok if you want colors. there is one that is flat black specifically made for barbecues and that should match what you have quite well. applying spray paint is easy just do light coats , let dry , scuff a bit and do a few thin coats if you can. best if it's warm out and do it outside because it stinks. don't paint it if it's cold. If you warm it up you might take it outside for painting and then let it dry inside but with the windows all closed you'll still have a stink unless you put it in a spare room and stay away from the fumes. It'll off-gas for a day or so and give you headaches if you confine yourself with it.

a simpler option could be to buy the one that was too large and cut it down to the size you like. It looks like it is basically just a trim panel and not really part of the enclosure. It might not even really get that hot, maybe just hot to the touch but not like the firebox itself.

Phil
Last edited by phil on Thu Jan 30, 2020 10:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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GinaC
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Re: Survey: Should I paint the bricks around my stove insert?

Post by GinaC »

On the subject of creosote buildup, I just got everything cleaned out and brand new steel liners for both the stove and the furnace put in before the stove was installed, so I should be ok currently. And I do plan on having the sweep come back each year to clean it.

Hmm... adding another strip of flat black steel with a bent or rolled edge might work. I have about 1/4" leeway behind the shroud to be able to slip something right behind it without disturbing the installation. I can take the photo and a cardboard template to some shops to see what they can make.

I guess then the only issue would be what if the two blacks don't match? And how would I attach it to the brick?
Last edited by GinaC on Thu Jan 30, 2020 10:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Survey: Should I paint the bricks around my stove insert?

Post by phil »

you might just look in the hardware store, usually they have racks with metal shapes. maybe somethign like an L shape, about 1/4 x 1 1/2" or similar? few little holes drilled through and black sheet metal screws or little nuts and bolts to suck them together. maybe small buttonhead bolts that take an allen key would look nice. Flat black usually matches well but you might see some difference, it costs 10 bucks or so for a can to experiment. if you really look you might find like bent tin that will push on over the edge or something like that. If you know a tinbasher they are good at this stuff too. I think Id want to finish that edge somehow, not leave it sticking out.

If you think about the type of thing you might put a resume in with two sheets of mylar and a plastic strip the works as the spine and squeezes over.. something like that but metal, plastic wont work of course. It wouldn't close the gap but maybe leave a more finished edge. if you look at how they join big heat ducts together there is a strip they use for that that pushes on over both pieces of tin to join them. something similar wouldn't need any screws as it would just push on. sheet metal shops have formers that can make the edges like that or many other shapes. they call them sheet metal workers, tin-bashers is derogatory I guess ;-)

another way , use 1/2" tubing, cut a slot in it then push that over and you'd have a rounded edge that protrudes about 1/4" You'd need a bit of a jig to cut pipe neatly along the long dimension that might be hard for you, but possible.
Last edited by phil on Thu Jan 30, 2020 11:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Survey: Should I paint the bricks around my stove insert?

Post by Manalto »

GinaC wrote:... what if the two blacks don't match? And how would I attach it to the brick?


1. You don't care about that.
2. An adhesive that can be removed at a later date.

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Re: Survey: Should I paint the bricks around my stove insert?

Post by phil »

odd idea but what if you looked in a picture frame shop , at the metal picture framing materials? It might come in long strips and perhaps have a nice profile for the edge?

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GinaC
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Re: Survey: Should I paint the bricks around my stove insert?

Post by GinaC »

phil wrote:odd idea but what if you looked in a picture frame shop , at the metal picture framing materials? It might come in long strips and perhaps have a nice profile for the edge?


Well, it would have to be at least 3" wide to cover the brick.

And I do have to consider how hot it gets around there. Probably not much, but I am really really paranoid about it. If I know it's just steel with fireproof paint, I wouldn't worry about it.
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Re: Survey: Should I paint the bricks around my stove insert?

Post by Willa »

There are high heat paints for things like stoves and barbecues. As far as I know it is usually only available in black. I would paint the bricks with that - if they get hot when you are having a fire. If they only get moderately warm then I would get a paint for masonry that closely matches the slate color.

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