Vala, for what you need, consider one of these: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/saw ... e-saw.aspx
A very capable, portable, professional unit with unparalleled safety. YOu will be hard pressed to find one used, but you will get your money's worth new if you use it a bit, and it will hold it's resale value well if you do not.
I have it's bigger and somewhat less portable brother (the contractor saw) and love it
Buying a table saw
Re: Buying a table saw
Mick...
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phil
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Re: Buying a table saw
Personally I wouldn't touch those contractor saws but it;s Vala's choice..
The first job he has is to change the bevel on the bottom rail of his windows. unless the window is less that 25 1/2 tall there wont; be room between the blade and the maximum outreach of the fence to do this.
this is also a dangerous operation for a kickback because if you allow it to skew even slightly during that kind of cut with the short side of the window to the fence, Whamo. Kickback ! It will throw that window at you so hard you will be on the ground before you know what hit you. It's because of situations like that that I suggested gaining info on kickbacks.
The sawstop technology won't help that scenario. For this reason I would make the first project a crosscut sled irregardless of your choice of brand or style of saw. If you do it that way , then you won't use the fence at all.
note it says it can move the blade to full height in one crank.. that isn't; an advantage if you want to raise the blade an accurate amount to for example to cut a tenon. There is a reason the other saw takes 25 turns to lift the blade all the way up. That's a fine adjustment. It also locks solidly in that position.
The trunnions will be weak and wimpy, this isn't an accurate machine, but you can tote it around and store it easily. It's all a trade off..
I wouldn't touch a machine like that or recommend it unless I was a contractor that wanted to cart it from site to site needed the portability. As long as Vala can make an educated decision that he is happy with that's all that is important here.
the technology senses a change in the resonant circuit so it can instantly detect if it cuts you and it is supposed to stop the blade. If it does then you need to dispose of the blade and the cartridge. this sensing can be turned off if your lumber isn't dry, it might get set off if there is any dampness in the lumber maybe a sap pocket of if you hit a staple or something. we tried it with a hot dog, it works.
It's convincing technology and smart marketing. A lot of places like institutions are very wary of liability so they buy them because they don't want to be accused of not providing the safest technology available. Personally I am more wary of kickbacks than the chance that I will go sticking my finger in the blade, although If I did, I wouldn't be the first person to cut myself on a saw..
I often cut old lumber and I couldn't count the number of nails I have cut this way , sometimes they are buried in the lumber, broken off etc. They will set it off.
I often want to do things like rip longer lumber. maybe I want to cut a 2x2 out of a 20 foot full dimension 2x12 for example.. or maybe to cut a piece from a full sheet of plywood, I feel a lot safer doing things like that on a saw that is firmly planted and heavy, so I personally would find that sort of machine frustrating to use. If you have to lug it up and down stairs the choice is obvious. You aren't going to do that with a cabinet saw.
Phil
The first job he has is to change the bevel on the bottom rail of his windows. unless the window is less that 25 1/2 tall there wont; be room between the blade and the maximum outreach of the fence to do this.
this is also a dangerous operation for a kickback because if you allow it to skew even slightly during that kind of cut with the short side of the window to the fence, Whamo. Kickback ! It will throw that window at you so hard you will be on the ground before you know what hit you. It's because of situations like that that I suggested gaining info on kickbacks.
The sawstop technology won't help that scenario. For this reason I would make the first project a crosscut sled irregardless of your choice of brand or style of saw. If you do it that way , then you won't use the fence at all.
note it says it can move the blade to full height in one crank.. that isn't; an advantage if you want to raise the blade an accurate amount to for example to cut a tenon. There is a reason the other saw takes 25 turns to lift the blade all the way up. That's a fine adjustment. It also locks solidly in that position.
The trunnions will be weak and wimpy, this isn't an accurate machine, but you can tote it around and store it easily. It's all a trade off..
I wouldn't touch a machine like that or recommend it unless I was a contractor that wanted to cart it from site to site needed the portability. As long as Vala can make an educated decision that he is happy with that's all that is important here.
the technology senses a change in the resonant circuit so it can instantly detect if it cuts you and it is supposed to stop the blade. If it does then you need to dispose of the blade and the cartridge. this sensing can be turned off if your lumber isn't dry, it might get set off if there is any dampness in the lumber maybe a sap pocket of if you hit a staple or something. we tried it with a hot dog, it works.
It's convincing technology and smart marketing. A lot of places like institutions are very wary of liability so they buy them because they don't want to be accused of not providing the safest technology available. Personally I am more wary of kickbacks than the chance that I will go sticking my finger in the blade, although If I did, I wouldn't be the first person to cut myself on a saw..
I often cut old lumber and I couldn't count the number of nails I have cut this way , sometimes they are buried in the lumber, broken off etc. They will set it off.
I often want to do things like rip longer lumber. maybe I want to cut a 2x2 out of a 20 foot full dimension 2x12 for example.. or maybe to cut a piece from a full sheet of plywood, I feel a lot safer doing things like that on a saw that is firmly planted and heavy, so I personally would find that sort of machine frustrating to use. If you have to lug it up and down stairs the choice is obvious. You aren't going to do that with a cabinet saw.
Phil
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Gothichome
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Re: Buying a table saw
Vala, my thoughts, get your self a simple mid grade potable table saw. It’s all you’ll ever need as a occasional carpenter. I just use a lower mid grade Craftsman saw. When I need it I just get it out of my shed and plop it down on my picnic table, if need be I clamp it down with a couple of clamps.
Safety is all in the planning, never lean over the saw, keep your fingers away from the blade, use a push stick, and never ever reach into the blade to save your cut should Some thing go amiss while cutting.
Safety is all in the planning, never lean over the saw, keep your fingers away from the blade, use a push stick, and never ever reach into the blade to save your cut should Some thing go amiss while cutting.
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phil
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Re: Buying a table saw
Vala if you do consider the 600 dollar one , the first question should be is it single phase or three phase... You can;t run three phase at home, Your house wont; have three phase power. so then you would either have to change the motor. probably about 400.00 for a motor or you can use a phase invertor and we can price those out if you like. You cam probably get one for a coupe hundred but obviously it's easier for you if it is a single phase motor.
larger saws also have a contactor ( relay) and motor overload installed in the box with the start/ stop button and you might need a different one. htese are electrical parts. . so for you I'd shy if it isn't single phase but it isn't impossible.. other than than the motor and start circuitry there is no difference.
if you see one at an auction or something single or three phase will be stated on the motor label. this guy will know because he had it in his own shop.
larger saws also have a contactor ( relay) and motor overload installed in the box with the start/ stop button and you might need a different one. htese are electrical parts. . so for you I'd shy if it isn't single phase but it isn't impossible.. other than than the motor and start circuitry there is no difference.
if you see one at an auction or something single or three phase will be stated on the motor label. this guy will know because he had it in his own shop.
Re: Buying a table saw
I think this saw is a good choice for the work you want to do...it has a decent fence, runs on 120 and is portable...it's a decent work horse of a table saw...and shipping is free!
http://www.coastaltool.com/bosch/4100-09.htm
...jade
http://www.coastaltool.com/bosch/4100-09.htm
...jade
Re: Buying a table saw
heartwood wrote:I think this saw is a good choice for the work you want to do...it has a decent fence, runs on 120 and is portable...it's a decent work horse of a table saw...and shipping is free!
http://www.coastaltool.com/bosch/4100-09.htm
...jade
Absolutely agree 100% jade, though I would go for the sawstop version for the safety feature, especially for a first timer (like myself) - I don't want to be one of the 65,000 people a year in the US who suffer a serious injury on one of these things... I'll happily spend a few hundred to ensure that my inexperience is protected by a little insurance
Mick...
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Gothichome
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Re: Buying a table saw
Good pic Jade, that’s pretty well what I use although mine doesn’t have the fancy frame under it.
Re: Buying a table saw
My last post on this... remember that 120 years ago table saws were not around, window sashes can just as easily be made to fit with a rip saw and plane... in fact with a little skill they may even fit better. Traditional tools are slower and more deliberate, so there is less room for making (big) errors.... This is why I always use them for cutting doors and windows to size (well that and the fact that I did not used to have a table saw 
)
)Mick...
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phil
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Re: Buying a table saw
that's right, a hand plane would adjust the bevel on the bottom of the window pretty quickly, and if you had to take off a 1/4" yea a handsaw will do it. I've probably said enough on this as well.
Phil
Phil
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Jeepnstein
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Re: Buying a table saw
Buy the best saw your budget will allow. A lot of that will depend on shop space or if you plan on using it in various work areas. A stationary saw in a dedicated shop will always work better for you but some times that isn't possible.
Also, if you're planning on using it for trimming window sashes and stuff you want to seriously consider building a sled to ride in the miter slots instead of relying on the fence. My sled cuts perfect 90 degree cuts every time and allows me to work with stock that is irregular or slightly over size. If I need a special sled they're easy to build. Here's my saw, the outfeed table is in position but the sled is sitting down at the side where I keep it until needed. Yes, I'm aware the guard is off but that's because of a cut I was doing that required no guard. The splitter is more important in my opinion.
Also, remember that a table saw is a merciless devourer of flesh and blood. It'll be your friend for many years but at any given time it'll also be ready to eat. Always approach it like you would your favorite pet rattlesnake.
Also, if you're planning on using it for trimming window sashes and stuff you want to seriously consider building a sled to ride in the miter slots instead of relying on the fence. My sled cuts perfect 90 degree cuts every time and allows me to work with stock that is irregular or slightly over size. If I need a special sled they're easy to build. Here's my saw, the outfeed table is in position but the sled is sitting down at the side where I keep it until needed. Yes, I'm aware the guard is off but that's because of a cut I was doing that required no guard. The splitter is more important in my opinion.
Also, remember that a table saw is a merciless devourer of flesh and blood. It'll be your friend for many years but at any given time it'll also be ready to eat. Always approach it like you would your favorite pet rattlesnake.