[SOLVED] Salvaged door conundrum

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Vala
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Re: Salvaged door conundrum

Post by Vala »

Willa wrote:Like others have said, it is possible to add some wood to the top or bottom of the door to make it the right height. Adding width is *possible* in theory but a really major headache. Same with reversing hinge, knob and lock location.

I would focus on looking for a door that is 34" wide then trim that down on the hinge side to fit, and build up wood as needed to make it the right height. A painted v.s. stained door will be more forgiving with concealing the extra length.


Adding to the top without adding to the sides won't do anything for me because its too big a gap. Almost all the exterior doors I find around here are all about the same. My house is different - most likely because the people who owned the lumber company in town build my place for themselves so they did a lot of custom stuff. My front door is 7' x 3' wide. (84" x 36") Thankfully all my other doors are original.

The only place I can find anything even remotely similar to the back door size is on ebay, which of course is super overpriced not to mention either driving across several states to pick it up or pay exorbitant shipping fees...

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Re: Salvaged door conundrum

Post by phil »

It probably started as a 34 inch door. since the door jamb is cobbled together and not correct anyway, why not install a 34 inch door. I like the white one but changing it's size is a bit much for Vala. try to get your new door with the doorjamb. the doorjamb you have isn't right , it should have a rebate they installed 1/4 round instead.

figure 4-18 gives you an idea how a door frame should be constructed. note how the sill ties in , it should be about a 4 degree angle. it shows the wedges I mentioned. a lot of times you can buy a used door along with the frame and that might be best if you don't feel comfortable creating that.

http://www.free-ed.net/free-ed/Resource ... ?iNum=1102

or, if you like the white door you can buy or make a frame to fit.
usually there is a rebate for the door to stop against.

You can have a double rebate so the door closes against one side and then a screen door can fit the other side. sometimes people dont; want to cut the rebate so they just use a strip of wood instead but in old houses it is usually cut in, not an added strip.

http://www.trademasterjoinery.com.au/do ... jamb-165mm

I would just make the frame from scratch and I would use fir. You can buy the whole thing as a kit, and that might be easier, but if it were me I wouldn't be happy with Home depot made in china finger-jointed crapwood.. you could likely get a pre made 34" frame with the sill that is made of fir but you might have to look outside the box stores.

there are a lot of newer techniques and materials, and things like metal jambs. metal thresholds. but since you do value the heritage I would do it the traditional way. use wood. you can add a little weatherstrip later if you need it.

If you go to a 32 rather than 34 you can.. I think I'd have a look at the other doors in the house and if that is your only 34" door think about how that will limit furniture movement. If you have other wide ones then it might be less of an issue and if you like the white door then you can change the opening to fit.

I'd source the door you want there and decide that first because you might find another used door you love and it might be off size too.

it looks like there is a transom window , so if that is the case that might limit how much you change the door opening.

sometimes screw holes pull out and people fix it in different ways. I would get it set up the way you like using short screws and once you have it adjusted pretty close you an back them out and put long screws right through into the studs.. this is because it is really easy to pry doors open by sticking a screwdriver or pry bar in the hinge side and prying the hinge side open. the door frame then splits.. If the screws are long this is harder to do.

the wood sill in the line drawing makes a statement that it is done traditional way. That could be fit properly at the same time. it's kind of one of the first things you see when you enter. to me things like metal thresholds are just like adding metal windows and metal screen doors. they work fine but if keeping the heritage is what you want, the old techniques have been tried and proven over centuries. same for window construction.

I think if you can uy a pre made frame , you might be able to tackle shortening it a little if the door is loose in the opening.. I dont think you want to make the whole thing.

I'd suggest finding the parts you need and doing it in good weather. it can be a trying job if your time is limited and you are standing in the cold draft trying to fit it all in properly.

I noticed a good tip in there, dont; drive all your nails in completely until you get it fitted in case you want to pull the nails and readjust.

once you get it all fitted , before you put your casings back you can pack the gaps with insulation. you can use spray foam but watch it doesn't shift the frame and make the door too tight. sometimes the expanding foam can do that.

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Vala
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Re: Salvaged door conundrum

Post by Vala »

I'm curious why does everyone seem to be against getting a custom door? The cost? If I went custom I would certainly have it made out of a better wood than pine. And I would likely be getting my door from Hoffmeyer's where I got my windows from and the quality is superb.

Because I've been looking for a door for 5 years, I really don't want to spend another 5 years waiting for a back door. esp because we use the back door alot since thats where the parking is.

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Re: Salvaged door conundrum

Post by phil »

for me the reasons would be, it isn't old and you can buy an old one quite easily which helps keep the heritage look.
I think you would be up against considerable extra expense especially making it taller than normal, cutting down a door isn't hard.
milling all the pieces to make a nice panel door is a fairly large job, Usually doors are made on production line equipment not one by one, of course it is possible but once you want custom , It means money.
Having an odd size isn't really nicer, unless it's got a rounded top or something noticeable. maybe that would be different if it was remarkably large or something. for me I'd prefer to change it to a standard size in case I ever do want to replace it again. or add a screen door to it.
I don't think your doorjamb is original or really done properly although it may be OK if left alone. hard to tell by the pics I could be incorrect.

Although it's been done and possible, most doors were not created by carpenters, they were made in production shops that specialized in door making. . anytime you mass produce you lower the costs. make a one off that's labor intensive. CNC equipped shops might have a little advantage there because it isn't too hard to change the programed dimensions a little for a one off.

Its not unusual that the opening is larger than the door. so to me it looked like maybe the original frame went missing and someone added some blocking to fill the gap up. so I figured taking it out back to the framing and inserting a new or reclaimed doorjamb might be the way to restore originality..

as you mentioned the previous owners owned a mill and maybe did make the door or do custom work. My dad made a new solid cedar front door by gluing up some lumber he had.. It isn't unfathomable that they made the doors.. It's just more common that they were made by door makers.

Nothing to stop you from getting a quote.. and if you dont mind the outlay maybe you'd like a certain style. but see what others think..

it might be easier to see what is going on with additional pics.. I made some long posts so maybe I should try to give others a chance to chime in.
Phil

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Re: Salvaged door conundrum

Post by Olson185 »

We've been working on our house for over 5 yrs. now and using "placeholders" (things that serve until we find something better) has worked well for us. Procrastination works, too. We recently bought five doors containing frosted glass, for about $50 each, that work well for the rough opening (R.O.) doorways we hadn't yet finished.

For two of them, I had already prepped doors (removed paint, etc.) but these frosted glass doors are both larger and allow light to pass...so much nicer than solid paneled doors.

The point is, upgrading from one "placeholder" to a better one often works until one finds the ideal solution.
~James

Fourth generation in a family of artists, engineers, architects, woodworkers, and metalworkers. Mine is a family of Viking craftsmen. What we can't create, we pillage, and there's nothing we can't create. But, sometimes, we pillage anyway.

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Vala
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Re: Salvaged door conundrum

Post by Vala »

Olson185 wrote:The point is, upgrading from one "placeholder" to a better one often works until one finds the ideal solution.



I had considered that, but was wondering if it was worth the time and effort since I would have to add new framing to make the smaller doors fit since they're several inches smaller.

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Re: Salvaged door conundrum

Post by Olson185 »

Vala wrote:
Olson185 wrote:The point is, upgrading from one "placeholder" to a better one often works until one finds the ideal solution.



I had considered that, but was wondering if it was worth the time and effort since I would have to add new framing to make the smaller doors fit since they're several inches smaller.


In this particular case, I would consider the modern door you have now to be the "placeholder" until you find one that fits.
~James

Fourth generation in a family of artists, engineers, architects, woodworkers, and metalworkers. Mine is a family of Viking craftsmen. What we can't create, we pillage, and there's nothing we can't create. But, sometimes, we pillage anyway.

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Re: Salvaged door conundrum

Post by Gothichome »

Vala, in your situation I think a new custom door would be a viable option. As mentioned, 5 years of searching and nothing. Hoffmyers would a perfect shop to do the job. Send them a pic and dimensions of what you want. Some times you just have to pay up or do without.

Sashguy

Re: Salvaged door conundrum

Post by Sashguy »

I would go with a 34 or 36, remove the junk and cut it down to fit. There are three salvage dealers in Houston and one very large store in Cuerro TX that may have exactly what you need.

Sashguy

Re: Salvaged door conundrum

Post by Sashguy »

Btw, I have the exact design as pictured in my storage shed, but it’s too short. They are very common down here.

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