48" seems to be the most common width for Hoosier cabinets, although I don't doubt that wider ones exist. There aren't as many in this part of the country - at least, not at the moment - and the asking price seems somewhat inflated. It would be an appropriate piece of furniture for the space, however, so I'll keep looking.
The flour dispenser would be great for dog food!
Hutch compatible with Craftsman style
Re: Hutch compatible with Craftsman style
I would put the fridge* plus a very tall upper and lower cabinet to make good use of that space. My preference is for cabinets that go all the way up to ceiling. The uppermost shelves are great for the kitchen stuff that is seasonal that only gets used a few days a year. Exposed shelves with no doors are best for people who are super tidy that have matching everything = hardly anyone I know.
What about a wall mounted upper and lower v.s. hutch or hoosier which is a single piece of furniture ? Or find cabinets that fill up the space but leave room at the end for your garbage or recycling bin ?
* Fridge caveat - you need a certain amount of clearance to open the door wide enough to slide out the bottom drawers = narrower cabinets.
What about a wall mounted upper and lower v.s. hutch or hoosier which is a single piece of furniture ? Or find cabinets that fill up the space but leave room at the end for your garbage or recycling bin ?
* Fridge caveat - you need a certain amount of clearance to open the door wide enough to slide out the bottom drawers = narrower cabinets.
Re: Hutch compatible with Craftsman style
If an offer of $150 was accepted,
I would love it . I can see dark stain, get rid of the scrolled trim like you said and change the bottom door fronts. Change the hardware.
I would love it . I can see dark stain, get rid of the scrolled trim like you said and change the bottom door fronts. Change the hardware.
Re: Hutch compatible with Craftsman style
Willa wrote:I would put the fridge* plus a very tall upper and lower cabinet to make good use of that space... * Fridge caveat - you need a certain amount of clearance to open the door wide enough to slide out the bottom drawers = narrower cabinets.
I like the idea because it would open up space in the tiny kitchen, but I don't think it'll work. A 30" fridge, plus (~6") allowance for the door swing in a 63" space leaves 27" for cabinet. Not much room to cut up a watermelon. It looks like someone might have had a similar set-up in the past because there's a petrified rubber bumper on the door trim where a refrigerator door would have hit.
Willa wrote:My preference is for cabinets that go all the way up to ceiling. The uppermost shelves are great for the kitchen stuff that is seasonal that only gets used a few days a year.
Storage for glasses, dishes, silverware and other dining room stuff is important because the dining room is small and I'd like to have just table and chairs in there. Fortunately, the storage pantry is big, so there's room for seasonal and infrequently used gew-gaws in there.
Willa wrote:Exposed shelves with no doors are best for people who are super tidy that have matching everything = hardly anyone I know.
Let the neatniks spend their time keeping their exposed shelves clean; I know 1,000 better ways to waste my time!
Willa wrote:What about a wall mounted upper and lower v.s. hutch or hoosier which is a single piece of furniture ? Or find cabinets that fill up the space but leave room at the end for your garbage or recycling bin ?
That's certainly an option, and would allow for more counter-top "headroom." I should look into it. Thanks for the suggestion. There's room for trash under the sink, so that aspect is flexible.
raine wrote:If an offer of $150 was accepted,
I would love it . I can see dark stain, get rid of the scrolled trim like you said and change the bottom door fronts. Change the hardware.
It wasn't; I didn't make any offer at all. Despite a couple of its odd features, I still like its overall robust appearance.
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Re: Hutch compatible with Craftsman style
Since you were looking on the Western MA CL, I found the ones below on the antique pages. You could also think about a jelly cabinet, butcher block or even a pie safe for the remaining space too. The first Hoosier below is a 48"W, and my favorite out of the lot.
size / dimensions: 48 x 26 x 71.5
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36" across, 68" tall, 25" deep
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no dimensions listed
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And a pie safe, though it doesn't look exactly like the ones I'm used to seeing that are called pie safes. No dimensions listed
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And if you want some doors that could be later made into the style cabinet you want, I think the price for these is good: $150, and they have hardware.
size / dimensions: 17 1/2" W X 44" H
size / dimensions: 48 x 26 x 71.5
~~~
36" across, 68" tall, 25" deep
~~~
no dimensions listed
~~~
And a pie safe, though it doesn't look exactly like the ones I'm used to seeing that are called pie safes. No dimensions listed
~~~
And if you want some doors that could be later made into the style cabinet you want, I think the price for these is good: $150, and they have hardware.
size / dimensions: 17 1/2" W X 44" H
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Re: Hutch compatible with Craftsman style
Lily left the valley wrote:Since you were looking on the Western MA CL...
Ooo...I also love the first Hoosier and those cupboard doors with the glass!
1862 Greek Revival Farmhouse, Michigan
Re: Hutch compatible with Craftsman style
Thank you! All these options are really helpful because they've got me thinking about the purpose of this functional piece of furniture. It's right near the dining room, so there has to be storage for glasses, plates, and silverware. It's near the sink, so it would be convenient to do any food prep that requires washing but no cooking (salads, fruit), coffee and bar supplies.
I like the enamel work surface of the Hoosiers and the greater storage capacity of the traditional hutches, since they can be found larger than 48". Since hutches are almost always in two sections, maybe a more durable work surface could be sandwiched in between the top and bottom, and even extended forward a little bit.
I like the enamel work surface of the Hoosiers and the greater storage capacity of the traditional hutches, since they can be found larger than 48". Since hutches are almost always in two sections, maybe a more durable work surface could be sandwiched in between the top and bottom, and even extended forward a little bit.
Re: Hutch compatible with Craftsman style
Willa wrote:HUGE base and top, probably from a store(Vermont):
https://vermont.craigslist.org/atd/d/8- ... 38719.html
https://vermont.craigslist.org/atd/d/2- ... 39147.html
00p0p_bHseK6KDK5b_1200x900.jpg
00t0t_7PZSJobPoAI_600x450.jpg
I saw this cabinet in person on Saturday, it is at a local salvage / antiques place about 20 minutes from me. It would indeed be huge in height if the top were placed on the bottom section
Mick...
Re: Hutch compatible with Craftsman style
Here's another thought: many hutches are two separate pieces, for ease of moving (ie taller than most doorways). You could wall mount the upper, leaving a space above the lower to create a work surface. You could widen the work surface, like on a hoosier, and to make it look less new use coloured formica with steel trim, as was common in many 30's - 60's kitchens.
Like I wouldn't do this with a fine antique, but a less precious hutch could be modified like this without too much guilt I think ? I also like painted wood, so a scuffed or unattractively finished hutch (Ethan Allen ?) could be transformed with paint into something that looks like it came with the house.
Like I wouldn't do this with a fine antique, but a less precious hutch could be modified like this without too much guilt I think ? I also like painted wood, so a scuffed or unattractively finished hutch (Ethan Allen ?) could be transformed with paint into something that looks like it came with the house.
Re: Hutch compatible with Craftsman style
Willa wrote:You could wall mount the upper, leaving a space above the lower to create a work surface.
Brilliant. What a great idea; that opens up the possibilities! There will be much more storage in those without the gap, since there tends to be less of a setback; in other words, the top section is deeper.
ETA - except - the lower section has to be a decent work height.