I'm putting beadboard covering the entire walls of this closet. You can see what the wall/trim colors look like outside the room. The doors are going to be painted the trim color and have antique sash lifts as pulls.
I'm feeling very indecisive...should I leave the beadboard the natural color, paint it white, or paint it the trim color? Beadboard should be painted with a more glossy paint, right? Do I use the same type of baseboards as everywhere else over the beadboard or will that look weird because it's thick? The ceiling will be white, of course. Advice appreciated!
beadboard closet advice
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beadboard closet advice
1862 Greek Revival Farmhouse, Michigan
- oaktree
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Re: beadboard closet advice
One more question...since the beadboard will expand and contract over the year, does it make sense to prime it before putting it up so the grooves show less or not worry about it? Sorry if this should be in the Craftsman area!
Last edited by oaktree on Tue Jul 18, 2017 5:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1862 Greek Revival Farmhouse, Michigan
Re: beadboard closet advice
Might I suggest a more traditional and easy finish (assuming your bead board is wood plank and not mdf etc.) Amber or Garnet Shellac, very traditional, quick to apply in multiple coats and gives a very warm feeling. It will also not show marks like paint and is easy to recoat in the future if you wish
Mick...
Re: beadboard closet advice
oaktree wrote:One more question...since the beadboard will expand and contract over the year, does it make sense to prime it before putting it up so the grooves show less or not worry about it?
absolutely, do this
Mick...
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Re: beadboard closet advice
Mick_VT wrote:Might I suggest a more traditional and easy finish (assuming your bead board is wood plank and not mdf etc.) Amber or Garnet Shellac, very traditional, quick to apply in multiple coats and gives a very warm feeling. It will also not show marks like paint and is easy to recoat in the future if you wish
I hadn't thought of that! Not a bad idea. What about baseboards?
1862 Greek Revival Farmhouse, Michigan
Re: beadboard closet advice
oaktree wrote:Mick_VT wrote:Might I suggest a more traditional and easy finish (assuming your bead board is wood plank and not mdf etc.) Amber or Garnet Shellac, very traditional, quick to apply in multiple coats and gives a very warm feeling. It will also not show marks like paint and is easy to recoat in the future if you wish
I hadn't thought of that! Not a bad idea. What about baseboards?
I would either do them in shellac as well, or they would look good in a regular trim color IMO... matter of taste really
Mick...
Re: beadboard closet advice
Here is one more thought - you could get cedar bead board and leave it natural - a cedar closet being a nice feature to have in a house, no finishing of boards or tongues and grooves required!
Mick...
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Re: beadboard closet advice
Mick_VT wrote:Here is one more thought - you could get cedar bead board and leave it natural - a cedar closet being a nice feature to have in a house, no finishing of boards or tongues and grooves required!
This. Cedar is a natural moth repellent and it looks nice inside a closet. The downside is it's more expensive than pine t&g boards. If you use pine, I also recommend shellac over paint. Maybe even add a few drops of a mahogany or walnut dye to it.
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Re: beadboard closet advice
1918ColonialRevival wrote:Mick_VT wrote:Here is one more thought - you could get cedar bead board and leave it natural - a cedar closet being a nice feature to have in a house, no finishing of boards or tongues and grooves required!
This. Cedar is a natural moth repellent and it looks nice inside a closet. The downside is it's more expensive than pine t&g boards. If you use pine, I also recommend shellac over paint. Maybe even add a few drops of a mahogany or walnut dye to it.
There was very sloppily installed cedar planks in this closet before, and it felt extremely gloomy. I actually ended up keeping all my clothing in an upstairs bedroom though it was inconvenient. The beadboard I have ready to install is pine (home depot clearance). No issues with moths in my place since moving in luckily. I'm actually starting to lean towards painting it white because then I can actually see what I have in there. Thanks everyone for advice! So the best thing to do is put shellac on under the paint as a primer?
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Re: beadboard closet advice
I'd think about what you are going to nail it to , maybe put some fire stops across between the studs. the fire stops help if a fire gets in the wall so it cant' travel upwards as fast. also I wouldn't just put beadboard without putting drywall behind it. this is because of the fire rating. If it could ever be a wall separating a suite use 5/8 fire proof so it meets code. by removing lath and only putting beadboard you are creating an issue as the wall doesn't have an acceptable fire rating. I'd just quickly tape and rough fill the drywall but I wouldn't get carried away since you are covering it up. . You could glue the stuff to the drywall if you wanted, probably nicer to nail it to something.
you'll loose a little space but anyway think of the fire rating of that wall, even lath and plaster has some fire resistance but that stuff is like kindling.
I'd put roxul in the wall cavity too. even room to room it's nice to have the soundproofing and of course on outside walls if you have them open I'd definitely insulate them.
the wall on the right has some insulation already, but there is an issue at the top. there is no thign to nail to there so I'd pull out hat insulation and put some 2x4's along the top between the studs and put the insulation back. then when you put your drywall you have something along the top to screw into.
I like to mark the floor and ceiling before covering so I dont loose track of where the studs are when you get the drywall up and can't see them anymore you have marks to go by.
you'll loose a little space but anyway think of the fire rating of that wall, even lath and plaster has some fire resistance but that stuff is like kindling.
I'd put roxul in the wall cavity too. even room to room it's nice to have the soundproofing and of course on outside walls if you have them open I'd definitely insulate them.
the wall on the right has some insulation already, but there is an issue at the top. there is no thign to nail to there so I'd pull out hat insulation and put some 2x4's along the top between the studs and put the insulation back. then when you put your drywall you have something along the top to screw into.
I like to mark the floor and ceiling before covering so I dont loose track of where the studs are when you get the drywall up and can't see them anymore you have marks to go by.