Window question--Jade and Sashguy?

[awomanwithahammer]

Oh, and by the way, I meant no disrespect when I talked about the pros that don't work up to my standards; present company is excepted. There are pros and there are "pros," and I've had very little luck finding the good ones in my area.

[heartwood]

bonnie...I just realized you posted a photo of a newly glazed sash....it looks fantastic!!! and your speed is picking up...that's a real confidence booster and keeps you motivated....wait about 5 days with the sash in a warm dry area before painting the sash (directly over the putty, no priming)...you'll need to knock off the many little bits of putty and lightly sand the wood around the putty before painting...

you are on your way!!
...jade

[Gothichome]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_qHM ... lo2Ukg4Nmc
I see nothing wrong in this, as Jade mentioned, the speed will come with time and practice. My experience has been, try not to over work the putty in an attempt at perfection. With practice, a good result will come naturally.

[phil]

I happened to have a 25 year old glazer over on the weekend. He doesn't know much about old houses. I asked him what he'd use to replace a wooden window and he started naming off a few modern products that I couldn't pronounce.. one by dow corning. but nothing like sarco.. Probably the glaziers that do house calls see a lot of older stuff like wood, but he works in new construction and it's a different trade altogether.

I bet the floor looks nice after a quick and unplanned coat of oil

I had the same experience hiring drywallers. If you are a general contractor and you can offer multiple jobs it's one thing but if you know you are just a one shot customer then if you hire hourly it saves a lot of those quality arguments as they will stay to make things more perfect if they are getting paid for the extra work. Or contract on only the boarding and not the taping and filling and then you can finish yourself without the heavy lifting.

[awomanwithahammer]

I enjoyed watching that video...my method is much different though...and I am faster than he is but I am not ambidextrous!

I actually am ambidextrous, which definitely helps! Thanks for the compliment, Jade; that's high praise coming from you! The picture I posted was actually the first two I did with the Sarco. The last 3 looked even better.

I bet the floor looks nice after a quick and unplanned coat of oil

Why, yes. Yes, it does. Hope it doesn't hurt anything.

Bonnie

[awomanwithahammer]

Jade, is this similar to the silicone bulb you use at the bottom?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009K ... SW7UF6UU3X

My lower sashes are already grooved for a metal weatherstrip attached to the sill (I know that's not the right word--it's under the sill) that fits into the groove, so I wouldn't have to rout anything out. (Yay!) I just wanted to see what you thought of this one.

Bonnie

[heartwood]

yes bonnie, that looks very similar...the one I use is 3/16" rather than 5/16...both should flatten out to about 1/32" when the sash is closed...see if they will send a sample so you can make sure the kerfs are the same dimensions...if your kerf is a little bit larger, you can place a couple of tiny dots of adhesive caulk in the kerf and that should hold...

...jade

[awomanwithahammer]

OK, I'm making progress. Just finished puttying my second window and I'm definitely improving in speed and looks. Now I have a question about hardware. I want to reuse the original handles, locks, and sash chains, all of which are intact. Unfortunately, they're all covered with paint so I want to strip them. I've tried boiling them, using brush cleaner, and paint stripper, with limited success and whole lot of angst (especially the chains!).

Do either of you have a good method for stripping all of the above?

[heartwood]

we use a crockpot set at high--no soap or tsp--and let the hardware sit for a couple of hours...rather than use a putty knife that might scratch, we use a small wooden shim which works well...that is followed by a brass brush cleaning and perhaps a sanding with emery cloth...we finish with rubbing bee's wax onto the hardware...

yea, I guess the chain would be difficult...maybe try clamping the chain down to a work area so it's easier to work with...I've used smartstrip, peelaway 6&7 (all made by the same company) with good results...lay plastic down on a work surface, lay chain on top of plastic, clamp the chain at each end, cover with paint remover, cover chain with saran wrap (or similar), let sit for 2 hours then brush off...

good luck!
...jade

[awomanwithahammer]

Thanks, Jade. I've used the crockpot on high, and whatever paint was used on these things doesn't want to come off using that method. Even full stripper doesn't get all the paint. I'll give it another shot, and I'll try your suggestion for the chains. One more thing--do you oil the lock mechanism since it's been wet, or do you find that it works OK once it's thoroughly dried?