Window question--Jade and Sashguy?

[phil]

I just took a 1" putty knife and bent it when I saw that's what they guy at the glass shop that did a little demo for me used. It helped.

[Mastercarpentry]

Wonder if I could clip the ends?

Certainly. The best way to do this is using "end nippers" or "side cutters". I like the first because I can see exactly what I'm cutting, then matching that to the spot I'm working with. I also now use a narrow wood chisel instead of a putty knife to install them using a rocking motion. The chisel never slips off, allows more pressure to seat them firmly, has a better 'feel' to it and seats them more firmly.

When glazing points are exposed past the putty, they will allow water in and they will rust. They also make glazing and painting a pain in the rear which adds to the awful look. I re-do these when I run across them.

I also 'cheat' and seat the pane in a bed of caulking, not glazing, which seems to work at least equally well. It's faster, cleaner, softer, and easier to get just the right amount on in just the right place. Let the excess on the inside dry and ,then it scrapes off cleanly. First use a razor knife on the glass held against the sash, then a window scraper and it comes off in one long string. For stained sashes I use clear "Lexel" brand caulking. Never use silicone as the oils in it will be absorbed by the wood making the stain look awful and preventing the paint or finish from adhering.

I'll cede this much to 'modern' methods in all but the most important historical restorations since it works better and lasts longer, thus better preserving the window. For non-historical renovations I also use the glazing in a tube as it' far easier and light years faster. I learned glazing the old way, and with a straight knife using the side of the blade, not the end. Once you get the hang of it, glazing is easy but until then it can be one of the most frustrating things you'll do.

Phil#2

[Sashguy]

My preference is triangle points. They provide a greater holding area, which distributes the pressure, and consequently are less likely to crack glass, and they are easily pushed in deep enough to clear the putty line. I often find that the tips of diamond points are the cause of breakage. And then there's the push point. With these you may as well smash the glass ahead of time. They are likely to be the cause of breakage anyway.

[heartwood]

argh! please don't use caulk to bed glass...the next person to work on the sash will curse you for life....caulk is very difficult to remove and ends in significant glass breakage...in the professional world of window restoration, there is an ongoing debate about this...most of us prefer glazing putty...

putty in a tube is DAP which is not an especially good product....there's also the waste of the cardboard cartridge to consider....laying a line of bedding is easy enough....

.....jade....preservation purist (in case you haven't noticed!)

[awomanwithahammer]

The diamond points were used in these windows originally. I see the triangle points, but I really don't want to invest in the push tool. Can you install them manually? The ubiquitous ones with the ears seem to be easily pushed in with a knife, but I wasn't sure about the others.

I hope all these questions aren't too much of a pain. I would have liked to learn at the side of a master, but this is the next best thing. I think if I had known all of this before I jumped in, I might never have had the nerve to start! But I learn best by doing, not reading, so I might be at least barely competent by the time I finish.

[Sashguy]

Here's my tool for setting points. A Hyde Contour Scraper with the blade turned reverse and a small rectangular magnet to hold the point in place. I also flip the blade to clean the rabbit, the other blades to remove paint from the profile, and the magnet to keep the points together in the tool box.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W ... JQ7IFDO6YS

[awomanwithahammer]

Awesome, I actually just bought one of these, because I have a lot of profiles to strip! OK, maybe I'll switch points; that looks easy enough.

[Sashguy]

<<<argh! please don't use caulk to bed glass...>>>

LOL... for sure Jade. Almost as bad as the guy a few years back who had glazed his windows with Liquid Nails.

[phil]

Here's my tool for setting points.

That's ingenious thanks for sharing that "tip"

[Lily left the valley]

<<<argh! please don't use caulk to bed glass...>>>

LOL... for sure Jade. Almost as bad as the guy a few years back who had glazed his windows with Liquid Nails.

I see your Liquid Nail glazing, and up with my Liquid Nail around the tub beading in lieu of caulk. (Including all the way around the plastic molded tile panels they used for a surround. From what little I first tried to remove the LN from the outer edges, all it wanted to do is bring as much of the bead foam backer out with it, so the next time I'm feeling determined, I have to try to cut it off at an angle, then go back and shore it.)