Window question--Jade and Sashguy?

[Jeepnstein]

A few things I learned several years ago when I had about thirty windows to do and was making wooden storms for the entire house, about forty five of the things.

1) Jade is always right. You'll never get bad advice if you just listen.
2) Heat guns are the devil for the most part. I wound up using steam and or paint stripper on my windows.
3) Time is indeed money, some times there's just no sense in struggling for days to save a pane of glass.
4) Good putty will give good results. My personal choice wound up being Sherman Williams' brand "66". It works very well, is quite durable, and can be obtained locally so I don't have to buy in large lots. It's wonderful stuff. I get very good results that most times you can't tell from a pro's work. Never used the Sarco but I hear good things about it from people in the trades.
5) Keep a clean knife with a smooth edge. Never use your window knife for anything but working putty.
6) Kilian's spring bronze weather strip is the finishing touch every double hung window needs.
7) A good ladder is a thing of beauty. Don't go cheap on the tool that keeps you in touch with the planet below. Even better is a few bucks of scaffolding.
8) Wooden storm windows are really effective in not only protecting your valuable sashes but also making them almost as efficient as modern windows.
9) Buy a high quality sash brush for painting your windows and take care of it like any other tools that you expect to work properly. I've used the same brush for ten years now. It is strictly off limits to everyone else and is never used for anything but sashes. I don't use that horrible blue tape, ever.
10) Always do it right the first time. Short cuts cost time and money.

People are amazed when they come over and I have all the original windows in the house. I've had people in the building trades just shake their heads like I did some kind of magic with that. Truth is I save tons of money doing it that way and my utility bills dropped by roughly half or better when I finished the project.

[awomanwithahammer]

Awesome advice! Thank you all so much. I still feel a little anxious, mostly because I'm still trying to round up all the moving parts--weatherstripping, etc. I won't feel comfortable until I get a window back in place and properly functional. I took apart one of the metal tracks I was talking about, and the metal parting bead is actually wrapped around a wood strip. I think I can reuse the wood as a parting bead; it's in perfect condition and already has holes that match where it was taken out.

Jeepnstein: I've been trying very hard to stay on the INSIDE of the windows! I have a rolling scaffold that is worth its weight in gold, since it hurts my feet to stand for very long on a ladder. I wish I could do wood storms, but I do have decent aluminum storms and they're going to have to stay, since I can't justify replacing them. I just checked out Kilian's website--what a cool site! (My new grandson's name is Killian!) I've used paint stripper, a paint scraper, and a heat gun, and of the three, the heat gun has worked the best. I might try steam, though.

Jade: You said you use a 3/4" bent knife; do you buy a straight one and bend it yourself or can you buy one already bent? I've looked online and can only find straight ones. I looked at your instructions for building a steam box, but I didn't see any specs for the steamer; what do you use? Would a wallpaper steamer work? I have a friend who has one I'm sure I could borrow.

[Mick_VT]

If you want to go the steam route - make a steam box - and use a commercial clothes steamer (I am doubting a wallpaper steamer is up to it) - you may be able to rent one

Here is the guide on making a steam box

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=20

[Sashguy]

Here's the type that I use, although I cut off the "V" blade to make it easier to get into tight corners. http://www.wgsonline.com/glass/210-40460.html

[heartwood]

geez jeep, thanks for the compliment!! your list will be very helpful to folks here...

the knife I use is no longer available...there are similar ones though:
http://www.wgsonline.com/glass/210-23290.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hyde-Black-Silv ... rkt%3D1%26

plenty of people use a regular stiff or flexible putty knife...I glaze for a living so I've tried many knives and I like the slim curved ones...

...jade

[awomanwithahammer]

I read somewhere (not here, I don't think) to put a thin coat of linseed oil on the rabbet and let it soak in before putting the setting putty bed on. Does anyone do that?

[Mick_VT]

I read somewhere (not here, I don't think) to put a thin coat of linseed oil on the rabbet and let it soak in before putting the setting putty bed on. Does anyone do that?

this is to stop the dry wood wicking the oil from the putty too fast and causing early failure. You can use boiled linseed oil (preferably 50/50 with turpentine) or another old school technique is to use shellac. Personally I prefer the latter as it is what I was taught. Bottom line is you need something, BLO, shellac, or perhaps primer to ensure good adhesion

[Sashguy]

I use Boiled Linseed Oil when the sashes are to be left wood-grained, or Zinnser BIN when they are to be painted. Also, when installing the glass, it's wise to coat the rabbits with putty first, press the glass into place, then install the points. The bedded putty prevents condensation from entering the wood below the glass and also provides a uniform cushion, which prevents breakage.

[awomanwithahammer]

Ah! That all makes sense. I am painting the sashes, so I'll just prime. Yes, I did putty the rabbets before installing the glass. I don't like the points I'm using because the ends stick out too far. I kept running into them when smoothing the putty. But I'm not going to invest in a tool that costs nearly $200 and a package of 5000 diamond points, for 14 windows! So I guess I'm stuck with these. Wonder if I could clip the ends?

[Mick_VT]

Wonder if I could clip the ends?

yes, I have done that myself - sharp pair of tin-snips does the job