What I did at my house today...

[heartwood]

late to the conversation....don't always read this thread but maybe I should........

good for you for tackling your sash corset woman! agreed, your putty line is a bit too thing...the rule of thumb is to hold the putty back from the edge of the rabbet about 1/16"...then when you paint the exterior of the sash, you paint over the wood, over the putty and onto the glass ABOUT a 1/16" to form a seal...the goal is to not see the exterior putty or paint from the interior...when the interior is stained, I use a dye to color the putty a similar color other wise you will see a while line of putty bedding from the interior...you can use the abatron dye or a gambling product--available at a craft or artist's supply store...I only dye the bedding putty as the putty at the exterior requires painting.... you can stain the putty but should wait approximately three weeks for drying time to avoid having the stain eat through the putty....it's also important to use a sealer over the stain for exterior exposure.....

hope that's helpful......
........jade

[Corsetière]

Thank you for the tip. The learning curve with old house fix up is hard. I'm glad to be part of this group where we can share this information freely. Perhaps we all should get together and write a book....

No problem! Also - I used the Abatron pigments this time. I had used another brand from Woodcraft in the glazing on my storm door and it was supposed to be a brown pigment but in the glazing compound, it turned mauve! lol! It may have been intended for use in stain or paint instead. Just a warning....

[Corsetière]

late to the conversation....don't always read this thread but maybe I should........

good for you for tackling your sash corset woman! agreed, your putty line is a bit too thing...the rule of thumb is to hold the putty back from the edge of the rabbet about 1/16"...then when you paint the exterior of the sash, you paint over the wood, over the putty and onto the glass ABOUT a 1/16" to form a seal...the goal is to not see the exterior putty or paint from the interior...when the interior is stained, I use a dye to color the putty a similar color other wise you will see a while line of putty bedding from the interior...you can use the abatron dye or a gambling product--available at a craft or artist's supply store...I only dye the bedding putty as the putty at the exterior requires painting.... you can stain the putty but should wait approximately three weeks for drying time to avoid having the stain eat through the putty....it's also important to use a sealer over the stain for exterior exposure.....

hope that's helpful......
........jade

Thank you! Super helpful!!! I think I will print this out as a reminder for the next time.
I was actually just wondering last night if I need to seal the putty, that answered my question.

Also is it ok to smooth the Sarco Dual Glaze with linseed oil? Or can that cause problems? The linseed was the only way I could make my work look respectable.

[heartwood]

glad you found my input helpful...congrats for reading through all my spelling oversights!!

when glazing, I always have a couple of folded papertowels saturated with turpentine (you can use thinner) to clean my hands and keep my knife clean...cleaning the knife will give you the same results as the linseed oil...the oil may require you to wait an extra day or two before painting in addition to the 5 days it typically takes for the putty to set sufficiently for painting...sarco suggests allowing two weeks dry time...it all depends on the volume of putty...some people I know allow 48 hours before painting with oil paint and 4-5 days for latex...sarco also suggests that you don't prime over their putty...not so sure that holds true these days as primer and paint has changed significantly
since they did their testing decades ago...

also, a tip for speeding up set time for abatron...a 60-100 watt incandescent bulb in an aluminum domed shop light (or similar shop light) will offer about an hour set up time before the woodepox should be ready for sanding...it may take longer depending on the volume...you can thin the woodepox with liquidwood after both A&B products are mixed...sometimes a repair calls for a thinner woodepox...

ok, go to it!
....jade

[Gothichome]

Spelling oversights Jade, they have been putting up with my poor spelling for years. I think your good.
What I did today, well what I have doing for the last month is restoring our stained glass sashes.

[GinaC]

I got two small jobs done yesterday and today. Yesterday I finally put together a little bench for my basement. The door to the garage leads right into the stairwell, and just past that is the room where the washer, dryer, and furnace is. I set up a little "mud room" area for shoe storage and that bench for changing shoes.

Today I changed out the cheapo ceiling fan in my bedroom for a nice Hunter one. It looks so much better, and once I get all my other decor finished, it will look even nicer. The best part is Home Depot gave me 20% when I ordered a second one for the other upstairs bedroom, which is my sewing room.

[phil]

Jade may tell us this is a horrible idea, but I was using a tiny bit of linseed oil to smooth out the putty after I got it reasonably flat and this seemed to really help with getting a professional looking result.

I haven't done as many as some but I was trying to mimic the demo I got when I resorted to taking one to a glazier. He used a 1 inch putty knife bent a bit in the middle, the bend in the blade gave a bit better attack angle. He did mix in some linseed oil and kneaded the putty but when he got the putty close to right he just used soapy water in a spray bottle, then the knife was dampened by the water and slid over the putty with very little friction. I noticed you said you were doing that with linseed oil which is compatible with the putty so I don't see anything bad or abnormal in either technique but maybe there is some preference for those with more experience at it. I have lots more to do but the problems are more with the painted shut windows. I got most of them free but need to go the next step and take them out one at a time and fix them up.. I'm so easily distracted by other jobs that it can wait but I'm looking forward to getting further.
as much as I love the look of wood I want paint on the outside facing parts, varnish wont stand up too well. some of the trim on my windows was sort of a pinkish color and I hate pink but maybe it was a pretty normal color. its not exactly pink but a sort of greyge pink

I like the idea of trying to come as close to the color of fir as I can. In the kitchen I used some orange and thought later, gee its actually not that much different than the floor which has quite a nice amber glow.

I came across some techniques a long time ago, what the guy was doing is taking pictures of woodgrain then printing that out on a large format printer. It had to be a printer that used ink , not an inkjet printer so he used a commercial print shop's printer to make the prints.

he'd then spray the item and the paper with lacquer and put them together while stioll wet. then after dry he'd wash away the paper leaving the image of the woodgrain. the base coat he already had down was a light brown tone and he'd smear some artist paints overtop. the result was a good attempt at faux without the artsy fartsy methods of using the squeegee tools to make the grain. Ive seen car dash boards done that way and it looks like a real learning curve.

I think there was another step in there, he used UHU stick , I think he may have printed on top of that in some cases.

I saw some color photo that were done this way and transferred to metal. they had to be printed in reverse. the colors and detail were just like that of a photo.


ok now I found a web article he's done so Ill link to that. You can see in the photo a philco. this radio was sold with a faux wood case so to restore it required trying to mimic the technique. I probably missed some critical steps and I notice that toward the end of the article there are some more links with other info..

im wondering if this methodology might be experimented with and perhaps it could help some who want o do their own faux graining... It sounds fun.

https://www.philcoradio.com/schooley/index.htm

[Gothichome]

This past weekend, I added a new down sprout and installed gutter guards to the eave troughs on one side of the home and completed another sash. One more sash to finish up and the summer work will be done. Time to think about inside work for the winter months.

[phil]

I set up a second 10 x 20 car tent. I bought it about 3 years ago and already stole the cover for the first one. the thing came with an endless supply of little bolts and pieces of pipe all different lengths and turned out to be a real jigsaw puzzle to find everything. Thought I'd use a tarp but I found a new ( evidently slightly used but in good shape) car tent cover for it on amazon. it was only about 60bucks. I didn't know they sold used stuff on there ? anyway hoping it was just re-boxed or something. It even has windows. I'm looking forward to parking under a cover and doing less scraping this winter. the tents work good so long as I'm mindful to clear the snow. I sort of poke them from inside to knock all the snow down before it turns into a block of ice.

[A.Fox]

This was actually my weekend, rather than my yesterday. After putting it off for over a year we finally got around to repairing our backyard fence. After all, having bought a house with a leaking roof, a heating system that wasn't fully operational, and rear doors that had been kicked in and strapped back together, our fence was at the bottom of our priorities. But since this was an item cited by the city before we purchased the house as the 6' fence leaned out as much as 2' in spots we figured it was in our best interest to get it done on our own terms before we were the ones getting a 10 day corrective repair order or face fines. One of our neighbors even said she always walked on the other side of the alley because she feared it would fall on her.

We started out aiming to repair what we had, just replacing the rotted posts in 6-8 areas that were visually failing and saving the pickets and posts everywhere else. But our landscape is really dense along the fence so we were really seeing things as we went, and the more we got into it the larger the project became.. First we realized that although it didn't previously appear so, the original posts had been concreted in place. So we had to offset a few feet and slide all of the panels over. This meant replacing all of the posts, which was just as well since further inspection showed that most of them were installed or secured in makeshift ways. Some were two posts sistered together, some had braces secured in all sorts of fashions. In some place there wasn't a post at all--just an additional 2x4 tying sections together.

After getting all of the posts in we decided that for the effort it made more sense to pay the extra money to put up new cedar panels than try to salvage and reinforce the existing panels that had more rot and issues that we initially expected. But for less than $1000 we got 75' of new fence that's better adhered and properly lifted out of the ground. We will replace the other half to match next year. Much better than the $3k to repair or $6k to replace the same length of fence quotes we received from local fence companies.