Corsetière wrote:Oh yes, I will keep the socket casings! I just got some advice from the good folks at antique lamp supply and they told me which new socket parts to buy to make sure they are safe.
Aside from the wire, all that needs to be replaced are the paper insulators inside the socket (usually one for the body and another for the top). I would clean the original socket interior with 90% alcohol and an old toothbrush. The original porcelain socket interiors are much better quality than the plastic replacements most of those places sell. There's nothing unsafe about them as long as the paper insulator is fresh.
Corsettier, what a great set of sconces, and a price I would be smiling ear to ear at. As 1918 suggests these are perfectly safe to use almost as is. I would not be tempted to replace parts or scrub them hard in an attempt to make them look new again. That's honest age your seeing. And you are most beffinatly correct, they will look grand with your newel light. Well done.
A most excellent score for $ 20.00. Slight differences in color ? Oh well. They're sconces and won't be mounted closely side x side unless you put them in the bathroom.
For shades you can get those ring mounted apparatus, and have glass shades, which you will of course find. Sort of like these:
Willa wrote:For shades you can get those ring mounted apparatus, and have glass shades, which you will of course find. Sort of like these:
B10786.jpg
Those are "UNO" shade fitters. They first appeared around 1914 and were designed for the sockets that are threaded at the bulb end. Earlier sockets used a fitter that clamped onto the socket base with a set screw. I can't really see in the picture, but I'm suspecting these would need the clamp style shade fitter.
I know there is another type of shade fitter for old, old lights but I was lacking the specific terminology when I googled the image search. Anyhow - the appropriate glass shade fitter would work with these sconces (was what i was trying to communicate).
while you dont' want to scrub them with anything abrasive, maybe just boiling them would be ok as it won't really remove the patina, at least not like scrubbing or acids would. you can also use solvents and that might take the paint off without taking the patina off. Green can be from copper but as you said it's paint. I'd replace the wire as it isn't visible with new but appropriate stranded wire with new insulation. also have a look at the little tab that contacts the bottom of the bulb you might scrape that a little to clean it if you re-use the old socket. I hate how all the new ones always want to unclip from themselves. There is a good cleaner for electric switches and things called de-oxit. It's expensive so use it sparingly but it is one of the few that actually works. Most contact cleaners of today dont' have the oxalic acid in them or whatever it is that made them actually work. Keep the deoxit off the rest of the lamp , it might remove the patina. but it is good for things like cleaning the old screws up so they make good contact again. maybe you could use repro bulbs or actual old ones and put them on a dimmer? I think you can still get filament bulbs if you look at he "specialty bulbs" like chandelier bulbs, I think those are still available.
another way to make them burn dimmer might be to hook them in series, so both see half the voltage. Im not sure how that works with the electrical code but it will work in practice. if one burns out then they would both go out as they would be both in the same circuit. You could test on the bench to see how that looks. but it might break electrical code. I was wondering if one might do this to lengthen the life if you were to use old 1930's carbon filament bulbs. they might last longer not being driven so hard.
Thanks, guys! I gave them a quick boil to get the paint remains off and they look cleaner but not overdone. I still have a bit of difference between the two in color, but for $20 - I guess I'll deal with it! ha ha!
I post when I get them hooked up. Now to find that pier mirror!
