InnerGlass Window Systems

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Ober51
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Re: InnerGlass Window Systems

Post by Ober51 »

Great, thanks!

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Mick_VT
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Re: InnerGlass Window Systems

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Great news, I did not have to wait 12 weeks - my second order is on its way as I type this. I will try to remember to get some pictures of how they are packed, and the install process (which is incredibly easy).
Mick...

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SouthernLady
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Re: InnerGlass Window Systems

Post by SouthernLady »

Mick_VT, I think I am going to go with these people when the time comes. I am greatly impressed with the look.

heartwood
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Re: InnerGlass Window Systems

Post by heartwood »

tell them that mick from Vermont and jade from heartwood sent you!

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SouthernLady
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Re: InnerGlass Window Systems

Post by SouthernLady »

I will! :)

phil
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Re: InnerGlass Window Systems

Post by phil »

so if you need to open a window then you need to remove the storm completely and store it in the house somewhere? I think I'd be afraid of tripping over them all. are they tempered glass? maybe if they were bi-fold they could just hinge in but at least stay as part of the window. for double-hung ones I like the idea that they could be outside and tip out and away so then you'd just open the sash and give them a push away but they do need some special hardware for that. maybe for some with big houses and not too much junk then storing them is less of an issue. If they had a wood box or something to store them all in it would prevent me setting them down and doing something like stepping through them.

Maybe bifold wouldn't meet modern code. there is a regulation about access , so a fireman can get in. there is a minimum dimension I believe because when my neighbor added a window they made them take it out. it wasn't that small but it had a vertical divider so the fix was a new window with no divider. Then it passed code. that window was just a modern aluminum frame one. I figiured in actuality , in a fire, it could have been kicked in pretty easy if they wanted to go in through it but the code is such that it didn't pass. they did some renos at the time so had inspectors all about.

I want to make a couple of mosquito screens and I envisioned a simple wood frame in the interior, a similar setup with a small channel at the top to captivate it, and a bump added to the sill so when I install it it can lift just enough to clear the bump then sit back down but not loose its hold in the upper channel. I thought maybe a leather tab to use as a handle near the bottom to make lifting it up a little easy or a little knob. I'm trying to decide on the dimension but thought maybe 3/4 x 1/2" fir with mortise and tenon joints at the corners would be enough. I dont know if it really needs a profile. maybe that would fancy it up a little.
I guess I could retain the screens by cutting a little slot in them and inserting the screen with some rubber piping, or maybe I'd want a little recess with a wood strip I can staple over the edge of the screen. I have some nitrile O ring material its about 1/8th or so and they are each about 3 feet long or so I have lots of it. i bought a pile of LED stop lights about 1 foot diameter, they were a cheap thing as they were some government surplus lot. each has a O ring on its circumference. Maybe that could be my bead material. I figured the old type of screen which is a heavy wire mesh might look more authentic. it's more for cats than mosquitoes. My kitty goes out on the roof and I have a ladder leaning on the house so she climbs down the ladder and gets in and out that way. ;-) Im ok with it but I dont want the ladder there forever. and I dont really want her out int he middle of the night. In the summer we wan the window open to sleep or its too hot.
when she was little I kept a big step ladder in the living room and she learned to climb it quite well. I've seen raccoons do it with no effort but Ive never seen another cat climb a ladder quite like that. she graduated from climbing a step ladder with slats to the aluminum type with round rungs.

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Mick_VT
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Re: InnerGlass Window Systems

Post by Mick_VT »

phil wrote:so if you need to open a window then you need to remove the storm completely and store it in the house somewhere? I think I'd be afraid of tripping over them all. are they tempered glass?


They do a sliding double hung option Phil, I have one on my bedroom window. I prefer the removable ones, yes you have to store them, but you only really want to remove them when you have a window open - they keep the noise down and the house cooler in summer. For convenience I usually take about 3 of them off in the summer and put them in a closet out of the way. It is really no hassle.

They will supply safety laminate glass, but it's not necessary unless the window comes to ground level. The standard glass is double strength (i.e. real thick) and I have never worried about it breaking
Mick...

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Re: InnerGlass Window Systems

Post by phil »

The extra layer of thicker glass would do a lot to help with sound at my place. I think Ill just try making some simple frame out of fir. I planned to start on the weekend but things got delayed. Ive had my baseboards sitting around too long and decided I better get them sanded and back in place so I can stop tripping over it. some were cracked so I did some glue ups. For some reason my workshop becomes a nesting place for everything we don't need upstairs ;-)
i cleaned the table up on my tablesaw and dragged my jointer out and did the same. I need to get some 6" blades for the jointer. I can have them sharpened but at about 10 bucks apiece I can just order three sets and get them delivered to my door since that will meet the 100 dollar minimum for free delivery. I plan to make a jig for sharpening them but if I have more it becomes more worthwhile, then I can do a bunch at once and be good for a year or so.

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Mick_VT
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Re: InnerGlass Window Systems

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phil wrote:The extra layer of thicker glass would do a lot to help with sound at my place. I think Ill just try making some simple frame out of fir. I planned to start on the weekend but things got delayed. Ive had my baseboards sitting around too long and decided I better get them sanded and back in place so I can stop tripping over it. some were cracked so I did some glue ups. For some reason my workshop becomes a nesting place for everything we don't need upstairs ;-)
i cleaned the table up on my tablesaw and dragged my jointer out and did the same. I need to get some 6" blades for the jointer. I can have them sharpened but at about 10 bucks apiece I can just order three sets and get them delivered to my door since that will meet the 100 dollar minimum for free delivery. I plan to make a jig for sharpening them but if I have more it becomes more worthwhile, then I can do a bunch at once and be good for a year or so.


It's amazing how well the innerglass ones cut noise. I live next to a mill dam with a 9' drop about 30' wide. I cannot hear it at all with the storms in
Mick...

phil
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Re: InnerGlass Window Systems

Post by phil »

thick glass really cuts sound. I noticed one house on a bad corner for noise had installed like 1/4" thick glass. You see it used a lot in places like offices and they really do stop the sound. the problem with installing glass that heavy is it won't really work too well in most windows due to the weight.

I did a lot in my living room, opened all the studs and installed ISO foam and then soundproof drywall. It cut a lot of it but i still have my original windows and I dont want to remove them but I think some storms that could be opened would be a good solution. I'd want them more for sound than heat insulation. I thought maybe ones that can tip outside could work with the double hung ones and maybe inner storms that could hinge in or bi-fold could work on the casements. I noted that one house a couple doors away has really nice original windows and they had inner windows that sort of bi-folded inwards. I can make the frames but need the hardware to make the outer ones tip out and away. wavy glass is hard to get in big pieces so maybe the inner ones could have a division. in my kitchen over the counter I have casements , only one opens now but I could make the others open too. I figured there I might just divide them so it was like one above the other. Then I could open the top one without clearing the counter and get to the outer window. That way it would be above the counter enough that it could clear anything on the counter-top. right now I have these simple rod things that screw to the sills and they might interfere so I might need a different way to hold them from the wind catching them. I think the crank things could work but maybe there is a simpler way. On my bedroom window I just put a chain and a pin so I can hook it where I want so it can be open an inch but not enough for the cat to go out. once I make screens it will help then I can have both wide open If I want. the velcro systems sound real easy but I think I'd prefer wood frames sort of like the ones you bought or if I get a bit more fancy maybe ones that can bifold in would work ok. Screens AND storms might be a bit much. maybe they could be the same style frames and swap out by pulling the hinge pins.
a thin plywood box in the back of a closet designed to keep them safe might help with storage. I think I should make one with just a screen to start. If I know what I want it will make sense to run off as much frame material as needed for them all. making window frames one at a time is less efficient.

at work we have shapers with power feeders and more serious equipment so maybe I could ask to do a long run of window profile stock it if I rough it out at home. I could fed a lot of stock though the machines at work in a short time.

The problem is that I also need the matching knives if I use the traditional sort of window profile. When you start cutting everything to exact length then you need to do the other half of the mating profile.

I've made simpler ones just on the tablesaw with square cut mortise and tendons. no special profile knives needed for that. if I did something similar to that it might be easier to mate the stiles and rails as I fit each one later at home. I dont mind fiddling with it in my spare time but I didn't want to take a big project like that to work. Hiring it all out wont fit my 1930's style budget ;-)

in my experience none of this is really that hard but you do have to think things through and experiment to get the setup the way you like it so the glass has a rebate or a groove and the parts all fit nicely. Im pondering trying some samples with a simple mortise and tenon in the corners and then maybe just simple bump or roundover to give some profile detail. Maybe some profile could be done to all the edges later with a router.
Phil

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